Solid wood airing cupboard door

big-all · 2 Aug 2004

heeelllooo a w

the reason it says quote
The label said "Not for use as doors", but when I thought about the reasons NOT to use it as a door, I presume that is because some idiot will try to hang a big heavy sheet of this stuff from some weedy hinges and small screws.

is because its a bit unstable although its laminated[glued together]
it is not laminated with grain up and alternated grain down
how are you securing it shut !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AdamW · 2 Aug 2004

I was planning to use a cupboard-door type catch rather than a full-sized door mechanism.

I will be varnishing the door ASAP, this should prevent warping shouldn't it?

Thanks for the info

big-all · 2 Aug 2004

a little tip if it starts to warp

if you have a door stop or the door closes onto a flat surface[cupboard]
you can usualy stop it with a large magnetic catch positioned
at the corner where its trying to lift
but must be put on strait away eg today or tommorow
once the door is allowed to move to far youve had it

this tip will only work with doors that start flat
and works 9 times out of ten

big all

salem2000 · 2 Aug 2004

also to stop the timber from bowing I would fix battens horizontally across the door. Thats assuming the grain is running virtically.

AdamW · 3 Aug 2004

salem2000 said:
also to stop the timber from bowing I would fix battens horizontally across the door. Thats assuming the grain is running virtically.

Good idea. I will "batten down my hatches" to stop them bowing.

masona · 3 Aug 2004

Geee, be like a bank vault door by the time you finish with it, are you having a steering wheel in front of it as well ?

AdamW · 3 Aug 2004

That's not a bad idea... stop that international gang of towel thieves breaking into my airing cupboard and nicking all the bath-sheets!

big-all · 5 Aug 2004

heeelllooo adam

That's not a bad idea... stop that international gang of towel thieves breaking into my airing cupboard and nicking all the bath-sheets!

do you often get relegated to sleeping in the bath then

big all

AdamW · 7 Aug 2004

big-all said:
do you often get relegated to sleeping in the bath then

big all

Depends on the dodginess of the bar I went to... Ever noticed how some cheap bars seem to sell rubbing alcohol as vodka?!

Got the frame painted now, the door is waiting for a few more coats of varnish. Then it is just a matter of screwing the hinges into the pre-rebated pre-drilled holes... I love it when a plan comes together.

big-all · 7 Aug 2004

nice to get feedback adam

you neednt worry about screws pulling out of end grain
just go for 25% longer if your botherd

did you say the timba board was 28mm
i thought it was 18mm although havent used it for years

any way glad it worked out ok hope you dont
have to sleep in the bath anymore

big all

AdamW · 12 Aug 2004

Well, they do different thicknesses in Wickes now. I think they do 18, 28 and I might have even seen 50mm. I really need some 12mm for another job I am about to start (building my own bath panel but with shelves recessed into it, making use of the space!) but can't find it.

With the airing cupboard door I used a twin-roller catch, which is just a traditional non-magnetic cupboard catch.

By a stroke of luck I found a doorknob that was almost identical to my nickel door handles, suitably smaller, so I fitted that.

I have two coats of clear satin varnish on the pine, so it has a nice lustre to it without looking TOO shiny. I used full-fat solvent-based varnish (and paints for the frame). This had the disadvantage that I am not used to clearing up after non-water based, not to mention the environmental issues. However, the finish seems to be significantly better than the water based paints and varnishes I have used elsewhere in my flat (no drips from it, yet the waterbased non-drip DOES drip

). Also, being non-water based it is better suited to a bathroom environment.

big-all · 12 Aug 2004

heeellloo adam apart from machined boards
plywood mdf chipboard laminated boards ect
you wont find pine readily avalable in half inch size[12.7mm]
in any usable widths
assuming they are only six or so inches wide fully enclosed
12mm mdf will be fine as long as its properly sealed
and if your a bit heavy handed with stained varnish
you can give it a sort of grain effect

big all

TexMex · 12 Aug 2004

need some 12mm for another job I am about to start (building my own bath panel but with shelves recessed into it, making use of the space!) but can't find it.

Adam. This is a job that's absolutely crying out for a router. But if you do want to use a solid pine board, you could always invest in some Sash Clamps and glue planks together. That's what you're getting from Wicks anyway. There's quite a strong posibility that you will have some problems from this in future, (as the planks may decide to buckle in their own sweet way). This risk is no greater than the boards you get from Wicks (as I say, it's the way they do it).

I think you'd be much better off, building a frame around some marine ply. It would be much more stable.

Go on, come over to the dark side, get a router, you know you want it.

AdamW · 12 Aug 2004

No... Getting weaker... Must resist... purchasing more tools... until payday at least...

I had wondered about the dangers of using softwood boards to make a bath panel, so I went and looked how much it would be for a "proper" one.

£45 for the side panel, £25 for the end panel. Which is about what it would cost me in timber board (assuming I could buy it in the right thickness!).

I had looked at the old T&G planking too, and came to the same conclusion about warping. Realised I will need to build a pretty substantial frame to give it enough support to avoid twisting.

Perhaps if I explain why I was thinking of doing this. My bath is in the corner of the bathroom, so one short side and one long side are exposed. Now, there are pipes that I am boxing in at either point where the bath meets the wall. So, any bath panel I have will have a whacking big piece cut out of the corner. So I have to make it look nice. I have a plastic panel, supplied with the bath, but I can tell it is rubbish quality and will look awful if I cut it about.

What would you do in this situation? Buy pre-made panels and cut them about (possibly adding reinforcement around the edge of the cut). Or would you make one from scratch out of some material or other? I do not want to tile it, so it has to look good either painted white, or have a maple or pine wood finish (doors are pine, floor is maple. So I'm easy

)

masona · 12 Aug 2004

AdamW said:
What would you do in this situation

Take the bath out and put a shower in

Get out of that one

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Solid wood airing cupboard door

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