moving an electric cooker

pennybell · 22 Dec 2007

hi guys

i'm fitting a new ktchen which means i have to relocate the electric cooker.

i have the correct cable, socket and connecting box thingy.

my question is: can i take another double socket from the cooker point as i only have 2 double sockets in the whole kitchen? (apart from the cooker point) and can i wire the extractor hood thingy directly from an existing double socket? it will have it's own switch.

i hope someone can help!

penny

daytona · 22 Dec 2007

pennybell said:
hi guys

i'm fitting a new ktchen which means i have to relocate the electric cooker.

i have the correct cable, socket and connecting box thingy.

my question is: can i take another double socket from the cooker point as i only have 2 double sockets in the whole kitchen? (apart from the cooker point) and can i wire the extractor hood thingy directly from an existing double socket? it will have it's own switch.

i hope someone can help!

penny

far more info required penny.

are the sockets on a ring main and not just a spur spur spur type arrangement that we see all to often?

is the main bonding up to scratch?
how are the circuits protected?
can we have the wattage of the oven?

not trying to do you down but this work is notifiable and may be better left to a sparks.
going out now but others may help!!!!

pennybell · 22 Dec 2007

the sockets are on a ring main

as far as i am aware the main bonding is up to scratch
the circuits are protected by individual circuit breakers in the consumer unit. ie one for cooker, one for ring main etc.

the cooker is 50HZ

i've tried to get a sparks but cannot find one for love nor money!

penny

far more info required penny.

are the sockets on a ring main and not just a spur spur spur type arrangement that we see all to often?

is the main bonding up to scratch?
how are the circuits protected?
can we have the wattage of the oven?

not trying to do you down but this work is notifiable and may be better left to a sparks.
going out now but others may help!!!![/quote]

ban-all-sheds · 22 Dec 2007

pennybell said:
the sockets are on a ring main

Then you may add an FCU for the hood.

as far as i am aware the main bonding is up to scratch

What did you find when you checked?

the circuits are protected by individual circuit breakers in the consumer unit. ie one for cooker, one for ring main etc.

So you've got a dedicated cooker circuit, so you can't put sockets on that.

the cooker is 50HZ

That's the frequency of the supply, not the wattage of the cooker.

i've tried to get a sparks but cannot find one for love nor money!

You'll have to notify the work then, if you care about the legalities.

i have the correct cable, socket and connecting box thingy.

How do you know it's the right cable?

When you say socket, I assume you mean the cooker control unit? Have you also got an outlet plate?

"Connecting box thingy" - ideally you should replace the cable with a longer one, not join it. What rating is the junction box? Where will it go (it mustn't be buried in plaster/behind tiles)?

pennybell · 22 Dec 2007

ban-all-sheds said:
pennybell said:

the sockets are on a ring main

Click to expand...

Then you may add an FCU for the hood.

that's great - thank you

as far as i am aware the main bonding is up to scratch

Click to expand...

What did you find when you checked?

can you explain what exactly "the main bonding" is as i'm not quite sure.

the circuits are protected by individual circuit breakers in the consumer unit. ie one for cooker, one for ring main etc.

Click to expand...

So you've got a dedicated cooker circuit, so you can't put sockets on that.

ok - that's what i thought

the cooker is 50HZ

Click to expand...

That's the frequency of the supply, not the wattage of the cooker.

label on cooker says volts 240, heat W 11450, motor W80, AC only 50HZ, total W 11583

i've tried to get a sparks but cannot find one for love nor money!

Click to expand...

You'll have to notify the work then, if you care about the legalities.

how do i notify the work?

i have the correct cable, socket and connecting box thingy.

Click to expand...

How do you know it's the right cable?

have bought junction box 45/250, cooker point 45 amp with 13 amp socket.
cable 47A surface mounted with cable clips. this will be behind base units and in a conduit from there to switch.

When you say socket, I assume you mean the cooker control unit? Have you also got an outlet plate?

what is an outlet plate?

"Connecting box thingy" - ideally you should replace the cable with a longer one, not join it. What rating is the junction box? Where will it go (it mustn't be buried in plaster/behind tiles)?

ideally i would re-wire from the consumer unit with one new length of cable but this would be diffficult as it goes through walls and concrete floors. i asked at an electrical retailers and they said it would be ok to connect using the junction box above. is this correct?

daytona · 22 Dec 2007

it all depends on the size of cable feeding the cooker switch,the wattage of the oven and the size of mcb.

without this info we could,through cyberspace,set fire to your house

daytona · 22 Dec 2007

and the rating of the switch and outlet plate

pennybell · 22 Dec 2007

daytona said:
it all depends on the size of cable feeding the cooker switch,the wattage of the oven and the size of mcb.

without this info we could,through cyberspace,set fire to your house

the cable is 47A

wattage of the oven is 11583 (it says W next to it so presume this is wattage)

what's an mcb? is that the circuit breaker thingy?

the switch is 45A with 13 A socket. what's an outlet plate?

don't want to set fire to the house

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moving an electric cooker

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