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Honeywell 3 position diverter valve clicking (V4073A1039)

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MarkyMark76

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2008
Posts: 14
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:06 am Reply with quote

Howdy again,

Seems it's all falling apart at once in my plumbing system!

When the boiler is running the 3 position diverter valve has started "clicking". The clicking noise is the microswitch being hit then the valve moving off it and then moving back and making contact with the switch again. A sort of rocking motion that means the microswitch is being hit every second or so.

It happens when only the hot water is on and when the hot water and central heating is on. When only the central heating is on there is no problem.

Any ideas?!
Thanks.
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ChrisR

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:21 am Reply with quote

They do this clicking when in the mid position, if there's something wrong with the bits on the pcb in there. The motor's supposed to "stall".

But on HW only , it shouldn't be in the mid position, it should be fully returned.

SO forst check your wiring - there must be a conection from the "hw off" terminal of the programmer as well as the cylinder stat, to the grey wire.

If the woring's ok, change the head of the valve. If you leave them doing the rocking/ticking thing, they wear the shaft which leaks then you have to change the whole valve.
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MarkyMark76

from United Kingdom

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Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:06 pm Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips. Will take a look over the weekend hopefully!

Any idea what sort of money is involved in the spare parts or the whole valve?
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MarkyMark76

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2008
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Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:48 am Reply with quote

Checked the connections and some voltages today and found the following -

Only in the "down" position for CH only -


~230V going to grey wire at this point. Then turn the thermostat on the HW and the valve moves to the mid point where it stalls and starts clicking. At this point the voltage jumps between 230V and 0V (at least i think it goes to 0V, my DVM is a bit slow to respond...)


Doesn't matter if its HW only or HW and CH this is the position is sits untill the boiler switches off. Now and only now does the valve go all the way to the "up" position. If the HW switches off and the CH is still running then the valve returns to the bottom position. As soon as the HW engages, regardless of CH setting, then it goes to mid position and gets clicking!

Does this sound like something in the electronics on the valve is bust? Thanks again for assistance!
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doitall

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 12:22 pm Reply with quote

AS Chris said probably a wiring problem, which should be tested as follows.

No power on valve HW only port B open.

240V on white wire HW + CH mid position.

240V on white and grey CH only poart A open 240V on orange.

240 on grey wire is valve held in last position, but if last position was CH approx 100V on orange wire
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MarkyMark76

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Joined: 03 Jan 2008
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Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:43 pm Reply with quote

Thanks for that info.

Problem is it never gets to a static mid position. Whenever it goes to the mid point the clickings starts. Will check the voltages as you suggest later.
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doitall

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 1:47 pm Reply with quote

MarkyMark76 wrote:
Thanks for that info.

Problem is it never gets to a static mid position. Whenever it goes to the mid point the clickings starts. Will check the voltages as you suggest later.


Thats why you should check for power on the other wires, in the mid position only the white should have 240V
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MarkyMark76

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2008
Posts: 14
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 4:27 pm Reply with quote

Not convinced my voltage measuring techniques are quite according to the text books so time to get in a proffesional.

As far as i can tell from the diagram and the assortment of wires in the control box they all match up correctly. Coupled with the fault only starting late last year and we've lived here for 4yrs now makes me wonder about the wiring being the route cause but what the heck do i know! icon_sad.gif

Thanks to all who have submitted advice and suggestions. This site is pretty awesome. Sadly i am let down my own lack of any useful practical skills!! icon_lol.gif
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doitall

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 5:19 pm Reply with quote

Just buy a new head and stick it on, for around 12 quid could save you a lot a hassle
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chad5k1

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 Jan 2008
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Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 7:55 pm Reply with quote

doitall wrote:
Just buy a new head and stick it on, for around 12 quid could save you a lot a hassle


Where do you find a head for 12?

The cheapest I've seen one is about 50 trade price, but maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.

Thanks very much in advance.
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doitall

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 8:02 pm Reply with quote

Bit more than that icon_eek.gif the 6 wire actuator is 40.52 at BSS.
3 wire 56.48 & 5 wire 64.38.
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MarkyMark76

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2008
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Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 12:06 pm Reply with quote

Got one for 58GBP delivered so will wait and see if this fixes it.

Thanks again!
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chad5k1

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 7:06 pm Reply with quote

let us know MarkyMark76, as I have the same issue icon_smile.gif
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MarkyMark76

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Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:47 am Reply with quote

No problem, should be here today or tomorrow.
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MarkyMark76

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Jan 2008
Posts: 14
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:36 pm Reply with quote

Hurrah!! We are now fully operational "clicking" free!! icon_biggrin.gif

Although the **** that put the valve where it is will get a reet hard slap if i ever meet him!! icon_lol.gif

This evening i also learnt that 240V will give you a right good 'tickle' if your not paying attention... icon_redface.gif
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