Sealing round the edge of a wooden worktop

Hooo · 25 Jan 2008

What do people recommend?
The worktops are oiled oak, and I'm fitting a glass splashback. I was going to leave about 4mm gap between the top surface of the wood and the bottom of the glass, and fill it with low-modulus silicone, so that the wood can move.
Will the silicone stick to the oiled wood OK? I was planning on wiping down the edge with white spirit first to remove surface oil, but is that enough?

Bilioustrumpstaine · 25 Jan 2008

I can't recommend a sealant, but don't use white spirit to prep for any sealant as it is oil based, use meths.

oilman · 25 Jan 2008

You might have geussed I wouldn't use silicone. Acrylic would be better, or a polyurethane like Sikaflex would be better.

Hooo · 25 Jan 2008

Meths it is then.
Oilman, what's the problem with silicone? I used acrylic round a bath once and I'm never doing that again! I'll definitely stick to silicone in the bathroom.

damson · 25 Jan 2008

hi Hoo

Can I ask? How are you fixing the glass splashback to the walls?

I too have a gap around the wooden worktop that needs sealing in some fashion. If I find any other advice I will let you know.

many thanks

oilman · 25 Jan 2008

Silicone migrates everywhere, and penetrates the surface of wood. Once it's in it's not coming out, but it makes a good release agent when you want to get something else on the surface.

damson · 25 Jan 2008

Hi oilman

what type of Sikaflex would you recommend using - and would this be ok for sealing the gap between wood and metal splashback as well? Or wood and plaster painted wall?

many thanks!

Symptoms · 25 Jan 2008

Hooo - yuk idea to apply a bead of sealant to the front of the glass/worktop interface - neatly applying sealant is an 'artform' that few master so often the end result looks naff. The correct way of sealing upstands is to apply the sealant to the worktop/wall interface then drop the upstand down onto it thus sealing under the upstand; wipe clear any excess (there probably won't be any if done properly - don't use too much). The end result is a clean, sharp corner where the upstand touches the w/top, sealed below & behind. Use transparent sealant.

Hooo · 25 Jan 2008

Oilman

Ah OK. I've never used silicone on wood, it's a good thing I asked. I'll look out for Sikaflex instead. Is it reasonably easy to find, or is it a specialist item?
I did a bit of a Google, most results are boat related. There's also quite a range of grades. What grade do you use, and can you point me at a supplier?
Thanks

damson
I'm planning to use mirror adhesive to fix the splashbacks, as recommended by the glazier who supplied the glass.

oilman · 25 Jan 2008

Hooo said:
I did a bit of a Google, most results are boat related.

Exactly, my boat planks are sealed with it. No leaks for 7 years.

Hooo · 26 Jan 2008

Symptoms

I can see that's a much neater way of doing it, but I'm concerned about having the glass directly onto the wood. Wooden worktops are mounted in slotted brackets with a gap to the wall, so that the wood can expand and contract. If the glass is stuck directly to the wood and the wall, I'm worried about it cracking as the wood moves.

oilman

How about the windowsill on your boat, does that get wet?

oilman · 26 Jan 2008

No windows, it's an open boat.

michaelmorris · 13 Nov 2013

oilman said:
You might have geussed I wouldn't use silicone. Acrylic would be better, or a polyurethane like Sikaflex would be better.

Looking up Sikaflex on t'internet there appear to be a number of Sikaflex products. Which one would you recommend?

foxhole · 13 Nov 2013

Would recommend you start a new topic rather than resurrect a 5 year old.

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Sealing round the edge of a wooden worktop

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