I am currently having my kitchen refurbished. To ensure I get a profession finish I am paying a small fortune for it to be professionally fitted. To my horror I have found that the cooker hood and gas hob ignition go to an unfused double (cubic type) socket adaptor, then into a single switched socket outlet. Whats more, the hoods 3A moulded plug has been removed and another 13A plug fitted. Is this as bigger hazard as I think it is? I have pulled the hood plug out and will get him to replace the fuse, but is the adaptor a problem? It would make sense for it to have its own socket!
Wiring of Kitchen Appliance
- Thread starter IMCresswell
- Start date
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IMO I would fit a single switched socket behind the extractor chimney or just below eyeline above the top of your units, and similarly another single switched socket behind the back of your cooker for the hob ignition
Tompsk, thankyou for confirming I was not being too critical, it just looks wrong! I will discuss this with the kitchen fitter tomorrow.
No problem, imo adaptors should be banned even fused ones, cant understand why the moulded plug had been cut off though ?
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Its a well known method of getting the cable through a small hole rather than have to carve one big enough for a plug to go through!
a picture paints a thousand wordsAll the electrics should be certified with a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate or Electrical Installation Certificate (or both) and are subject to Part P and thus notifiable to Building Control either directly or via an Approved Part P electrian (Full Scope or Defined Scope). You should then receive a Building Compliance Certificate within about 30days after completion which you should keep in a safe place as this will demonstrate to a future purchaser that the kitchen electrics comply with the Building Regulations.
I'd also hope there is an accesible isolator for these appliances?
I've been trying to send a photo but technophobia has taken over, what happened to the old cut and paste!
Yes, the plug was cut to get through a hole, however if a socket had been installed as directed by Tompsk, behind the extractor cover (the cable supplying the socket used does run down behind the cover) the plug socket would not have required passing through the work top and down to the ground level socket, which was already accommodating the plug for the hob peso. Hence why he has added a cubic style double socket adaptor to except the second plug. To isolate both the hob peso and the hood I will have to empty the draw!
If you really want to see the picture I can email it to you. As you would expect the arrangement is accessed through a 100mm hole cut into the rear of the kitchen unit.
Yes, the plug was cut to get through a hole, however if a socket had been installed as directed by Tompsk, behind the extractor cover (the cable supplying the socket used does run down behind the cover) the plug socket would not have required passing through the work top and down to the ground level socket, which was already accommodating the plug for the hob peso. Hence why he has added a cubic style double socket adaptor to except the second plug. To isolate both the hob peso and the hood I will have to empty the draw!
If you really want to see the picture I can email it to you. As you would expect the arrangement is accessed through a 100mm hole cut into the rear of the kitchen unit.
Please find the photo below, showing where the hob peso and hood are powered.
It's not immediatly dangerous, but at the same time it does not comply with BS7671.
It is certainly not the top finish you are paying all that money for.
It is certainly not the top finish you are paying all that money for.
Now that I have a grip of these photos here is another one.
RF Lighting, thanks for the reasurance.
RF Lighting, thanks for the reasurance.
Please dont tell me that those points are staying behind the hob.
If they are being covered/tiled over, can you describe how the cables are joined? It looks like a screwed terminal block that has been taped up?
If they are being covered/tiled over, can you describe how the cables are joined? It looks like a screwed terminal block that has been taped up?
Yes Taylortwocities, they are being tiled over, however, we would have expected a cover (in the interim). When we got home Friday evening we found that the fitter left after a half days effort, without a word regarding this fused spur (which leads to the socket below) and a spured socket on the right beside it. Tape has been wrapped around the terminal block and wiring.
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