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Plastering straight onto brick


 
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stevie3259

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Mar 2008
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Location: West Midlands,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:57 pm Reply with quote

Just stripping a bedroom out the plaster just fell from the walls exposing the bricks, what plaster is recommended to go striaght onto the bricks ? and does it need a finish coat ?
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roughcaster

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:51 pm Reply with quote

For plaster patching a wall onto exposed brickwork, presuming no problems with damp, salts etc, I would just use British Gypsum Bonding Coat plaster to fill it out. Once that has set, finish it with 2 coats of Multi Finish.

Roughcaster.
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stevie3259

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Joined: 03 Mar 2008
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Location: West Midlands,
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:09 pm Reply with quote

Thanks for that, also I am gonna board over the old ceiling lathe & plaster is the original there now, I do not mind attempting plastering the wall but I think trying to plaster the ceiling may be a bit to much, if I used tapper edge board, scrim the joints what joint filler would you recomend and what is the normal procedure for doing this sort of repair ?
Regards
Steve
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roughcaster

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:30 pm Reply with quote

If i'm taping plasterboard, I use Gyproc Joint Filler to bed the tape into the tapered edge of the p/boards, always making sure that it is not brought out too far, just enough filler to bed the tape into. I then let that set. You then go over the tape again with a ready mix joint finish, put on with a trowel or a taping blade/knife,but this time you are more or less coming out to the flush of the tapered edges. Ready Mix Joint finish does not set, but dries in air, so after putting on your first coat of this, let it dry out, say overnight and the following day, put on another coat, feathering away the edges as you go. When it has all dried out properly, it is ready to be sanded down with a fine sandpaper. Quite a drawn out process really.

Roughcaster.
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stevie3259

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Mar 2008
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Location: West Midlands,
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 7:25 am Reply with quote

When I started on the bathroom all the plaster from 3 walls just fell off, no evidence of damp, I thought about using plaster board and dob it to the walls then as its being tiled tile directly to the board, does the bare bricks need to be pva 'd before dob ing and then will the plaster board need to be pva ,d ? before tiling
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totoisacat

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:03 pm Reply with quote

maybe the walls you are plastering on your are not wetting down first...plaster dries too quick and falls off?

I am not a pro plasterer but have done a lot now and this has happened to me before. make sure your mis isn't too stiff also.
Is the wall you are plastering onto bare brick? If so suction is so great that it draws water too rapidly from your plaster and it drops off.
Try it agin and wet the wall a lot before adding plater and keep it wet as you move across the wall as bricks absorb water really quickly. Its easy once you find the problem out!
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stevie3259

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Location: West Midlands,
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:35 pm Reply with quote

Hi crossed wires, I did not explain it correctly,I have not plastered the wall it was when I was taking the tiles of they just fell off in great big areas 6 and 8 tiles at a time, the bricks are a bit uneven so thats what I need to know, if I dob and dab plasterboards onto the walls do they need to be pva,d first ?
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roughcaster

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:25 pm Reply with quote

Stevie,
Give the brickwork a clean off to remove the dust and loose materials, and then give it wet down from top to bottom as you go. Bricks are very absorbent so you would never put any plaster/adhesive etc without wetting down first. Use a big brush and just brush the water over the bricks. Do an area, say the size of a couple of sheets of plasterboard as you go, you don't want it drying out again too quickly. Mix up a solution of pva/water as per instructions on container and apply to the wall,coating an area of about one sheet of plasterboard, before appling your dabs of "drywall adhesive", and then the sheet. Put plenty of dabs where the sheets meet.If you have someone to help you,(advisable) then you can prepare a bigger area in advance. Make sure you have a good long straight-edge and a 3 or 4 ft. spirit level. If you are fixing skirting boards to the wall, dont hammer nails in,use a grip adhesive, and brace the skirting into place until the grip adhesive has set. That's the problem with dot and dab walls, it's hard to fix things to, unless you plan fixing points in advance for cupboards, radiators etc.

You don't have to PVA new plasterboard if you are going to tile onto it.As long as the joints are taped with joint filler, and that's it.

Roughcaster.


Last edited by roughcaster on Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:39 pm, edited 1 time in total
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totoisacat

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Location: London,
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:38 pm Reply with quote

I see what you meant now..didn't read it properly.

I ripped some old tiles off wall in cottage i own and to level it up just platered a base for them, using 'hardwall'. Or do as previous chap said. OR you could add battons to wall and ensure they are falt (to each other) with spirit level and then simply screw on p/board. If its a smallish size i would personally plaster, because i enjoy the process!
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