Advice required re: newly installed chandelier

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

Hi,

I am hoping that someone can give me some advice!!!!.

I have just had a NIC EIC Part P qualified electrician in to install some sockets downstairs and replace two light fittings (one of which is a chandelier that takes 16 G4 bulbs). The rest of the lights in the house require a couple of G4/G9 bulbs each.

My house has separate circuits for downstairs and upstairs sockets, but all of the lights are on the same circuit.

When the chandelier was first installed, it tripped the breaker when first tuned on about 80% of the time. I got the electrician back in and he upped the breaker to 10A (it was 6A before). It is a bit better, but it still trips the breaker about 20% of the time.

I guess my options are:
1.) Try getting the same light again (maybe this one is faulty?)
2.) Replace the light with a different one
3.) Get someone else in to split up the downstairs and upstairs lighting circuit (perhaps the circuit is being overloaded?). This is not ideal as I have just had the ceilings plastered.

Does anyone have any advice as to what I should do?.

Kind regards,
KixChloe

JohnD · 3 Apr 2008

Is it dimmable?

What wattage are the bulbs?

Where is the transformer?

What wattage are the rest of the bulbs in the house and how many?

Is there anything else on the lighting circuit (extractor fans, etc.)?

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

Hi JohnD,

The chandelier was not installed with a dimmer switch. The packaging says that "if you wish to use a dimmer with this product, please consult a qualified electrician". I assume this means that you can dim it. I would quite like to dim it if possible as it is very bright when it is working!.

Just looked at the instructions and my original post was incorrect. The chandelier requires 15 X 20W G4 bulbs. It is a pendant type chandelier, I am not 100% sure, but I think the transformer is in the bit that fits flush to the ceiling.

With regards to the rest of the lights in the house, I think the details are as follows:

Downstairs:
Hallway = 1 x normal bayonet 60-100W bulb
Living Room = 6 X 25W G9 bulb spot lights
Kitchen = 6 X 25W G9 bulb spot lights
Downstairs bathroom = ?W enclosed flush fit light

Upstairs:
Landing = 1 x normal bayonet 60-100W bulb
Bedroom 1 = 5 X 40W G9 bulb pendant
Bedroom 2 = 3 x 25W G9 bulb pendant
Upstairs bathroom = 3 X 25W G9 bulb spot lights

Both bathrooms have an extractor fan (I think they are wired into the lighting circuit).

Thanks for your help!!.
KixChloe

JohnD · 3 Apr 2008

I see you don't like energy saving lamps!

If it can have a dimmer, that may reduce the start-up surge if you switch it on set "low". Otherwise, a different kind of transformer may do it.

However I don't know much about this kind of lamp. i'm sure someone will be along in a minute that does.

Suggest you contact the manufacturer as well, as they will doubtless be familiar with the problem.

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

Hiya,

Thanks for your advice.

Yes, do feel a bit bad about having so many high energy lights, since I have gone for energy saving on everything else (fridge, washing machine, etc.).

I guess I just have to make sure that I switch them off when I am not using them!.

KixChloe

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

Hiya,

Two things related to the previous post:
1.) I just noticed on the packaging of the chandelier that it says that "a C rated breaker is recommended". The lighting breaker says B10. Does this mean that this is B rated and what is the difference between B and C?. Sorry if this is a silly question, but I am just a housewife, not an electrician

.

2.) Yeah, after some internet research, I found out that you can buy energy saving G9 bulbs!!. Maybe I can have spot lights and be energy efficient!!.

Cheers,
KixChloe

securespark · 3 Apr 2008

It may be possible to fit a C type breaker, but it depends on the earth fault loop impedance at the circuit destination.

You need to get this guy back. He should have read the instructions, no?

What is the earth loop impedance on the minor works certificate he left you?

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

Hi,

I should try and get this guy back ... thing is I have already paid him so I am kinda screwed. It is annoying when you pay someone to do a job and then this happens.

You are getting a bit too technical for me I am afraid. looking at the part P certificate ... in the first section "supply characteristics" it says external earth fault loop impedence = 0.18 (ohms?).

On the next page there is a table with a column called "Maximum measured earth fault loop impedence" and he has marked it as N/A.

Thanks,
KixChloe

plugwash · 3 Apr 2008

From that table what are all the figures for the lighting circuit with the chandalier on?

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

It doesn't say ... it just has one entry for "Downstairs ring main 13 sockets".

Thanks,
KixChloe

plugwash · 3 Apr 2008

are there no entries for lighting circuits?
can you scan and post a copy of the certificate?

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

Sorry can't scan it in at the moment (not working). But I can tell from the certificate that he has only put the new sockets and the new downstairs circuit for the sockets down.

Do you think this is because he only replaced the light fittings (i.e. didn't alter the circuit per se)?. Or is he doing a dodgy?.

Cheers,
Chloe

333rocky333 · 3 Apr 2008

A lot of these fittings use wire wound transformers , causing the problem.

It may be possible to replace it with an electronic one and it may be ok.

He should have tried a 6amp type C first, this may have cured it.

A 10 amp type B may be too high current rating for the circuit.

To just uprate the mcb from B to C and especially from 6 to 10 needs other things to be taken into consideration.
As said by securespark

kixchloe · 3 Apr 2008

Really ... could it be dangerous using a 10A?.

The consumer unit is pretty new (although not installed by this guy) and is very sensitive so I am hoping it will do it's job should anything be unsafe. Although, I guess the breaker helps determine what the safety threshold is ...

Thanks,
KixChloe

plugwash · 3 Apr 2008

did you get a certificate when you got the CU replaced? if so what did it say about the lighting circuit in question?

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Advice required re: newly installed chandelier

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