Lintel end bearing

Gilesda · 7 Aug 2008

Hi all.
I want to remove part of a block wall which doesn't extend upstairs, but it does have the upstairs floor joists resting on it. The joists are at 90degrees to the wall.
The sketch below shows (hopefully) what I want to do, the gap in the living room wall is what I will knock down & where I will have to place a lintel.
My problem is I have plenty of end bearing for the lintel on the left side, but only 100mm on the right side. The right side is a concrete block wall which the lintel be coming 90degrees off.
Would the 100mm be acceptable to the bco or will I have to leave a bit extra wall, ( I've shown in red on the sketch) which will not look too good.
Thanks.

Shytalkz · 7 Aug 2008

100 bearing will be fine.

Gilesda · 7 Aug 2008

Shytalkz said:
100 bearing will be fine.

I've been digging around the internet & everything I've read about lintels says the end bearing should be at least 150mm. Is that not correct, or does it depend on what the lintel is holding up?

duvet77 · 7 Aug 2008

From the Naylor website (not sure if you said you were using concrete or steel lintel):

Load Bearing
Lintels are usually supplied with the following allowances for bearing at each end:
100mm for openings up to/including 1000mm
150mm for openings up to/including 3000mm
200mm for openings over 3000mm.

It is however, the responsibility of the building designer to ensure that these are sufficient to avoid over-stressing the masonry at the supports.

Shytalkz · 7 Aug 2008

Gilesda said:
I've been digging around the internet & everything I've read about lintels says the end bearing should be at least 150mm. Is that not correct, or does it depend on what the lintel is holding up?

It's merely a rule of thumb. There are instances where 150 is insufficient. With what you want to put on it, 100mm is fine.

Gilesda · 8 Aug 2008

Shytalkz said:
Gilesda said:

I've been digging around the internet & everything I've read about lintels says the end bearing should be at least 150mm. Is that not correct, or does it depend on what the lintel is holding up?

Click to expand...

It's merely a rule of thumb. There are instances where 150 is insufficient. With what you want to put on it, 100mm is fine.

That's great then, I didnt want to leave a couple of inches of wall to make up the 150mm.
I am removing 2.5-metres of wall though, so hopefully Duvet's figures wont apply.

Gilesda · 21 Aug 2008

Hi again.
Sorry to revive this thread but there is one other thing I'm trying to find out.
I thought the upstairs floor joists (above the wall I want to remove) were in two parts, resting on the wall for obvious reasons. I thought this because the joists at the kitchen to dining end are like that, overlapped & sitting on a block wall.
I've had some floorboards up & they are in one piece. stretching from the bottom living room wall to the staircase wall on my sketch. The distance across the hallway is about 33" the living room is exactly 13' across.
Is the wall I want to remove still likely to be load bearing? If the wall was in the center of the 16' span I would have thought yes, but it is only 33" from one end of the joists. Can a wall so close to the end of the joists still be helping to carry the load?
Hope that is understandable, I've drawn the joists in red, thanks.
[/img]

Untitled

Gilesda
21 Aug 2008
1

Shytalkz · 21 Aug 2008

What size and spacing are they?

Gilesda · 22 Aug 2008

Shytalkz said:
What size and spacing are they?

The joists are 7"x2" with a 16" space between them.

theoutlaw · 22 Aug 2008

In Bucks 8" x 3" timbers are ok across a 15' span, that is with normal living space above and stud walling, they did insist that there were a pair bolted together in the middle though.

Tony

theoutlaw · 22 Aug 2008

Sorry I forgot to add this was with 100mm bearing and joists set at 18" centers. You also need to be careful where and how big any holes you drill or are drilled for wires and pipes, if I remember right they can only be a max 300mm from ends.

Tony

Shytalkz · 22 Aug 2008

Gilesda said:
The joists are 7"x2" with a 16" space between them.

Assuming C16 grade for the lounge span only, they are - to current design standards - overstressed and over on deflection. They work as C24 timbers, though.

C24s are overstressed for the longer span and over on deflection as well.

I think that you can therefore take it that the wall is load-bearing and needs a lintel. Reaction at the ends will be under 5kN for a 2.5m opening - 100mm bearing is fine for that.

Gilesda · 22 Aug 2008

That's great Shytalkz, thanks for that info & for all your help on here.
I'll be contacting my local bco next week to find out the score with this & what plans or info they need before I start. I now have a better idea of what I can & can't do & wont sound too thick (hopefully) when I phone them.
All other contributions were much appreciated as well, thanks again.

Gilesda · 3 Sep 2008

I phoned the building control office at Sunderland civic center to ask about procedure & what info I needed to submit to them to before I do this work & they have sent me a form to fill in.
The form is a "building notice" & all it asks for is what I want to do, (proposed work) plus a fee & a date when I intend to start
It doesn't ask me to provide any plans, beam sizes, or calculations which has got me a bit confused.
Am I supposed to do the work then somebody inspects it & decides whether the work is up to standard? Or will they ask me for calculations etc at some later date?
Thanks.

freddiemercurystwin · 3 Sep 2008

Gilesda said:
It doesn't ask me to provide any plans, beam sizes, or calculations which has got me a bit confused.
Am I supposed to do the work then somebody inspects it & decides whether the work is up to standard? Or will they ask me for calculations etc at some later date?

Basically yes, you need to be confident that what you do will meet the regs, with what you're doing though it does'nt sound like they'll ask for any calcs though. You need to ask them when they want to inspect. It might not look too good though if when your inspector arrives for a gander and if asked you state you got your advice off a forum, just say you've got a mate who's an engineer.

http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/england/genpub/en/1115313929065.html They call the Notice On site Approval on this link.

Or even http://www.sunderland.gov.uk/Public...ent/buildingcontrolhome/building-regs-aps.asp

diynot

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Lintel end bearing

theoutlaw

theoutlaw

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