Pointing advice needed

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I'm getting quotes for reroofing and rendering my house; I'm happy with everything I'm being quoted apart from one part of the job: repointing the brick plinth, which is coming out at around 2000 pounds.

As this part of the work isn't urgent (unlike all the rest) and doesn't need scaffolding, I'm wondering about doing it myself. The plinth is about 900mm high, about 36 metres long altogether.

My concern is that working with 'muck' is somewhere near the bottom end of my skills (I don't often do it) and the results will show. Would I be better off getting someone in the trade to do it, perhaps later on?

Are the icing bag/mastic gun pointing tools any good? Suitable for beginners to use? Any recommendations?

I'd appreciate any advice.
 
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I find my finger is the best thing for pointing.
 
It's easy to do, but even easier to mess up if you don't have the proper wrist action :oops:

It won't be any easier with a pointing gun - these are only quicker and have no other advantage
 
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Hi, Xerxes,
I'm not clear on what you mean by brick plinth.
show us yer piccys.
Also the difficulty is dependent on the material used as mortar in the wall and the condition.
I worked for a London pointing firm for a while, so if you post some piccys, I'll give you my best advice.
cutting out and repointing used to be about £25 per m2.
A chancer can do about 10 m2 per dy, and a pro can do 35m2
 
depends on whether you want just a rubbed joint or does it need to be a weathered joint,i own a pointing gun and admittedly i can only do the rubbed joint(bucket handle/bit of bent copper/rubbing iron)and i dont do a lot of it but the last job i done looked good,as your thinking of doing it yourself does it really matter how long it will take you?if times a factor then get a brickie to do it.
 
Greggers,
you are talking ballcocks, stoppit now.
There are a number of different finishes to repointed brick work, the finish will depend on the existing.
what is important is to establish if in fact the brickwork needs repointing at all.
If it does, the main problem is to get someone to dig out the existing perished joints to 20mm.(as a minimum)
and then to make a tidy job of repointing the wall.
Trust me, I'm a bricky.
 
20mm (or 1/5 the brick width) is the maximum. 10-12mm is the minimum ;)

And if gregers calls it bucket handle one more time, he will be banged on the head with it. Its half round
bash.gif
 
Hi, Woody,
The half round jointing tool is called a bucket handle in the trade, from the old days when the old railway fire buckets had wide handles just ideal for the job.
these old buckets could be recovered from tips on farms and the like, as it was the bottoms which used to wear out.
The half round tool came later, so it is more correctly called a bucket handle, as these came first.
Re-pointing is normally done, cut and struck, (or struck and cut) also called weather pointing, but can be other fancy types
 
It's half round, or rounded. It may have been done with a bucket handle (or pipe or bottle) in the old days, but that does not give it the name.

And a weathered joint is not a cut and struck joint. It can be struck, it can be cut and it can also be cut and sruck but these are additional processes
 
Give it up woody,
stick to wood butchering and leave the brickwork to the chosen ones.
 
No you're not, woody, only brickies can be 'chosen'.
I could ask the great stone wallayer in the sky if he'll let you in for good behavior if you like?
 

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