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Repressurise Worcester 24i Junior

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SimonaB

from United Kingdom

Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 24
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:53 pm Reply with quote

Hi. I've previously received some great help & advice on this forum and hope someone could provide some to me again.
I have a worcester 24i Junior boiler.

Yep, I might be blond, but had no idea (until now) that bleeding radiators had an affect on the pressure gauge. So today I bled my radiators and then shortly afterwards noticed that the pressure is more or less zero on my boiler. I didn't know that it was related until I hit google.

So anyhow, I'm trying to repressurize the system but can't find a tap. It certainly looks like it's connected to the mains (underneath and up inside) the boiler, there appears to be a short flexible hose which leads me to believe is the mains water supply. There is a small red knob attached to the one side, but it is near impossible to turn and even more impossible to see what's written on the knob (and which way to turn it!)

I've tried taking the front cover off, but realised that even if I do so, I won't have easier access to the red knob - which I can't seem to turn.
The unit doesn't look all that old so can't imagine that the knob/tap is rusted and stuck.

But I just don't know how to fix this.

Advice appreciated.

oh, and btw. what are the consequences of running at zero bar (apart from a soon broken boiler I guess)?

Thank you for any help in advance.


Last edited by SimonaB on Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:12 pm, edited 1 time in total
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ChrisR

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:00 pm Reply with quote

See the FAQ - filling loop??
Red KNob is not the one you want, if it's round. Probably!
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SimonaB

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Location: London,
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:09 pm Reply with quote

Thanks for the pointer Chris. I have had a quick read at the FAQ's (sorry for not seeing it earlier) and will try again tomorrow - when I have more light (and don't have to lay on back on the kitchen counter, underneath the boiler with a torch shining up it!!).
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lagunaglen

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:12 pm Reply with quote

How old is boiler, some models reqd a white key which you inserted and turned before opening the white tap to the right of the filling key.
Think the red "knob "you refer to is pressure relief valve head which if turned will reduce the pressure further still.
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SimonaB

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Location: London,
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:15 pm Reply with quote

I actually have no idea. I've lived here for almost 2 years and my "guess" is that the unit isn't much older than 3-4 years.
I will call Worcester tomorrow and see if the can give me any advice (whithout the need to send someone out).
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ChrisR

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:22 pm Reply with quote

Quote:
(and don't have to lay on back on the kitchen counter, underneath the boiler with a torch shining up it!!).

Hmm, don't go for a job as a boiler mender! That's our normal M.O.!
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SimonaB

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:43 pm Reply with quote

That's reassuring then !! icon_lol.gif
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Peadee

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:44 pm Reply with quote

SimonaB wrote:
Hi. I've previously received some great help & advice on this forum and hope someone could provide some to me again.
I have a worcester 24i Junior boiler.

Yep, I might be blond, but had no idea (until now) that bleeding radiators had an affect on the pressure gauge. So today I bled my radiators and then shortly afterwards noticed that the pressure is more or less zero on my boiler. I didn't know that it was related until I hit google.

So anyhow, I'm trying to repressurize the system but can't find a tap. It certainly looks like it's connected to the mains (underneath and up inside) the boiler, there appears to be a short flexible hose which leads me to believe is the mains water supply. There is a small red knob attached to the one side, but it is near impossible to turn and even more impossible to see what's written on the knob (and which way to turn it!)

I've tried taking the front cover off, but realised that even if I do so, I won't have easier access to the red knob - which I can't seem to turn.
The unit doesn't look all that old so can't imagine that the knob/tap is rusted and stuck.

But I just don't know how to fix this.

Advice appreciated.

oh, and btw. what are the consequences of running at zero bar (apart from a soon broken boiler I guess)?

Thank you for any help in advance.

I have a 24i Junior, but depending on age thay vary but I will tell you how I pressure my system.
Under the boiler at the front there is a plastic panel that is just clipped into place. Take this off and the key for the filling loop should be clipped onto it.
Look under the boiler on the right hand side and you should see a black open ended pipe with 2 symbols on it (the pipe will be pointing at the floor). An open padlock and a locked padlock. This is the pipe that you put the key into. push the key into the pipe till you feel resistance or it stops. Turn the key to the left (quarter turn) and then push fully home into the pipe. When the key is fully home, turn it to the right (quarter turn).
Once you have done that you are ready to pressurise the system. To the right of where the key is there should be a black plastic nut. Turn this anticlockwise and you will hear the water flow and the pressure gauge should begin to rise. Pressure it to just over 1bar and then close the nut and remove the key (reverse procedure) and hey presto, your system is pressured. Hope this helps, if yours is the same as mine, it will.
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SimonaB

from United Kingdom

Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 24
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:46 pm Reply with quote

lagunaglen wrote:

Think the red "knob "you refer to is pressure relief valve head which if turned will reduce the pressure further still.

Uhm, I have a "funny" feeling that's exactly what kinda happened. When it went from about 10% to zero icon_redface.gif
I heard a rushing sound and thought "yipee" - but alas the needle only dropped the last milli inch down.
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Peadee

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:36 am Reply with quote

Just double checked on my boiler and the plastic nut is actually white and positioned next to the charging key to the left.
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SimonaB

from United Kingdom

Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 24
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:31 pm Reply with quote

Peadee wrote:
Look under the boiler on the right hand side and you should see a black open ended pipe with 2 symbols on it (the pipe will be pointing at the floor). An open padlock and a locked padlock. This is the pipe that you put the key into. push the key into the pipe till you feel resistance or it stops. Turn the key to the left (quarter turn) and then push fully home into the pipe. When the key is fully home, turn it to the right (quarter turn).
Once you have done that you are ready to pressurise the system. To the right of where the key is there should be a black plastic nut. Turn this anticlockwise and you will hear the water flow and the pressure gauge should begin to rise. Pressure it to just over 1bar and then close the nut and remove the key (reverse procedure) and hey presto, your system is pressured. Hope this helps, if yours is the same as mine, it will.


Hi Peadee. Thank you for your detailed advice. Sorry it took a few days to respond, but I did check the inside of that small front cover and there was no key clipped to the inside.
So I went online and ordered a key. I believe there are two types (one slightly larger than the other depending on the date of manufacture - but luckily the company I ordered from sent both types).
However my problem now is that I cannot for the life of me see that open-ended pipe anywhere. Do I have to remove the entire front cover of the boiler?
For what it's worth, I'm 99% sure my boiler isn't more then 3 years old.
Perhaps I'll try and take a photo over the weekend which might help to explain what I'm looking at.
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Gasguru

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:53 pm Reply with quote

Assuming we are talking about the iJunior non-condensing boiler then...

It would appear you have opened the safety valve (the red cap inside the boiler on the left). Unfortunately these often leak after beening tampered with so the valve may require replacement/cleaning.

If the boiler has an integral filling link the key is fitted onto the long white plastic trim panel UNDERNEATH the boiler. The panel strip unclips from each end and the filling key should be found clipped to its upper side.

Then follow the filling instructions here
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SimonaB

from United Kingdom

Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 24
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:06 am Reply with quote

Thank you gasguru. I think I'm going to have to give up and call someone out icon_sad.gif
Will report back once someone's been and fixed it for me. This really should never have been that hard.
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SimonaB

from United Kingdom

Joined: 05 Apr 2008
Posts: 24
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:17 pm Reply with quote

Just thought I'd give an update in the interest of those may want to see an outcome.
Well....... what I so desperately wanted to avoid, happened in the end icon_cry.gif

Paid 100 for someone to find the tap to turn!
Seriously I can kick myself.
My system did not use the plastic key to refill. It did in fact have a "proper" tap to turn to refill. Only problem was that it was stupidly situated behind a build in cupboard! So there was no way I would have just found it. They had to remove my washing machine and a panel to access it. But at least I now know how to do it in future. And save 100 to turn a tap......
But thank you to everyone who tried to help.
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Cinderella

from United Kingdom

Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 1
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 11:28 am Reply with quote

Ohhh Simona, I totally relate, that's what happened to me 2 days ago, I paid 100 for someone to turn the tap to raise the pressure. The tap was under the boiler, it was staring at me! icon_redface.gif

The worst of it all is that it didn't fix the problem with my Worcester Junior 28i icon_mad.gif It shuts down at night time for no reason and it makes the electricity go off too! I need to go to the basement (which is filthy, damp and yucky) to tun the electricity back on and then it works fine....until the next morning when it starts all over grrr.
At times instead of the power to go off, the red flashing light at the top will come on instead.

The CORGI engineer said that he serviced the boiler and couldn't find any faults other than the pressure being low (which he fixed) and if he doesn't find a fault he can't help me icon_eek.gif I can't believe I paid 100 and still not know what is wrong with my boiler. It is only 3 years old.
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