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Insurance company, heating would not turn on. Won't fix it!

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sparkyshark

from Unknown or unspecified country

Joined: 30 Aug 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:35 pm Reply with quote

I have emergency cover insurance as part of my home insurance. I called them up & reported that my heating wasn’t working; plumbers came round and said that it was the diverter valve, and that they could not change it because the system electronics was too old.

They recommended an upgrade outside of the insurance policy of which I was not to happy.

Can someone have a look at the images below and recommend a new electronic box. Please include a link.

I know a little about electrics and feel I could upgrade it myself, failing that my neighbor is a retired electrician.

Thanks to all.







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dangermouse46

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:39 pm Reply with quote

That is a very old system and you need to call sunvic to see if parts are still available. Best upgrading to a 3port mpv and new wiring center. (honeywell are good quality)
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ollski

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:48 pm Reply with quote

Just fit a replacement, think its the sunvic DM5651 actuator which fits yours.
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sparkyshark

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:55 pm Reply with quote

Thanks I didn't know what they were called.

So to be sure:
Honeywell 42005748-001 Wiring Centre
Part Number: 42005748-001
Manufactured by: Honeywell

Price Inc. VAT: £11.70

So for £12 sake they won't cover it - jeez.

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JohnD

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:56 pm Reply with quote

IMO it is beyond the scope of an emergency repair, but read the terms of your policy.

Is your question "should the insurance company pay for my old control system be be replaced with a modern one"?

To my mind this is like saying "If my 1965 Ford Anglia breaks down, should the AA buy me a new Ford Focus?"

But perhaps I am being unfair.

p.s. a wiring centre is usually just a junction box with about a dozen terminals in it. your old unit appears to have a relay and PCB in it as well.

It also looks like there is no motorised head on your valve,


Last edited by JohnD on Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:03 pm, edited 1 time in total
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ollski

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:59 pm Reply with quote

Think dm means honeywell as a better valve, rewiring the system and fitting a new valve and box is more than 12.00!
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sparkyshark

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:03 pm Reply with quote

Quote:
ollski


The guy checked using the electric light pen and said it was not sending the signals. Unlikley as the water works, and if you turn the Valve knob manually, and hit the heating button it works.

For the sake of £12 + the valve & making it an up to date system, this is probaly a better way to go. If anything was to go wrong the insurance company could then not refuse!
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ollski

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:07 pm Reply with quote

Ah I see, was presuming the valve was gone as obviously was leaking from the spindle and had a fairly recent new actuator already.
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sparkyshark

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:09 pm Reply with quote

Ollski.

Okay, so £12 for the wiring center, £50 for the valve & £0 for my time. I've just checked and you can get a package deal on the below for £72 - any good?

Contents:.
FP715 electronic programmer,
HS3 three port mid-position 22mm motorised valve, one off
RMT room thermostat,
ATC cylinder thermostat,
WC4B 16 way wiring box
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sparkyshark

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:17 pm Reply with quote

JohnD / Ollski See image of actuator





So if I can get an order list, I'll get first thing Monday and sort this once & for all.
icon_rolleyes.gif [/quote]
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JohnD

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:23 pm Reply with quote

ask the manufacturere for a wiring diagram (maybe you can download it from the net) or they may post you one if your system is old and not th e same as current ones. I got Drayton to post me one for my mum's obsolete system not long ago (they do not publish it as it does not meet modern standards)

I don't usually do heating wiring, and find it quite confusing. I had to get a zone valve with an end-switch and it took me a long time to grasp why (with help from my friends on DIYnot icon_smile.gif

It will be easier if all the parts are the same brand. there are different models of motorised valve as some have switches in them and more wires.

It is very handy to have all the wires the same colour as in the diagram. It might even be worth buying some heat-shrink sleeving (or new wire) if your old wires are not the same colours.

You can buy cut lengths of Heating cable with numerous coloured cores at plumbers merchants and some DIY sheds.


Last edited by JohnD on Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:27 pm, edited 2 times in total
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DP

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:24 pm Reply with quote

Honeywell valve will not fit the control box. It needs a valve that drives open and then drives closed made by Sunvic (I believe these are still available). Spring return valve will not do unless the the wiring is altered to suit.

There is a good chance the actuator is not defective, but the valve body is jammed (white deposits). Look at the bottom of the actuator (the bit that fits the spigot) when hot water or CH is selected. If it drives round, there is nothing wrong with the actuator. You also need to varify thermostats are not faulty.

I am amazed you heating man can diagnose the defect with a light pen. Minimum requirement to find the defect would be to get the multimeter out.
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JohnD

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:25 pm Reply with quote

perhaps it was a light sabre? icon_wink.gif
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mattylad

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:49 pm Reply with quote

What has the age of the electronics got to do with a diverter valve?
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sparkyshark

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:52 pm Reply with quote

hmmm... All I know is I need to get this fixed by Thursday Next week.

Known Facts:
Valve not being turned by Actuator. No noise or activity.
Electronics Old.
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