Potterton Suprima 50 L - Flashing Green Light

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spaghettihoop5

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Hi all,

I've been reading all about my wonderful boiler all evening after finding that it doesn't warm the water up like it used to. I set my boiler up to heat the water up for 30mins each day which is enough for me to have a shower and wash pots during the winter months. Recently though, it runs out of hot water or it's luke warm while I'm showering... no setting changed. Not fun!

When starting up my boiler it seems to flash the green light (which in the manual is call for heat) for a long period of time, then it ignites, stays on for about 5-20 seconds then goes back to the green flashing light. In my opinion, but I might be wrong, the 5-20 seconds that it's heating the water up is a bit too short...

Now from reading all the forums, this doesn't sound like the usual PCB fault (no lockout red light) but is there a way of checking this for sure?

I've tried the trouble shooting flow chart in the installation instructions and that seemed to point to the air pressure switch... Could this be the fault? How can I check this?

I was wondering if it could also be to do with the temperature sensor or overheat thermistat? How could I check if these are working ok? Could there be something else that is causing this behaviour? This stuff is all new to me so I'm not sure where else to look.

Many thanks peeps!
 
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grahamderek said:
Check the pump and motorised valve(s)
Click to expand...

if they are ok then its probably the thermistor or the pcb. version three pcb has a fault identical to this and the thermistors dont often fail on these.
 
Thanks for your responses!

How can I check the pump and motorised valves? If these are ok, how can I check if the thermistor is working ok? Or would I just have to replace it to find out if it's faulty?
 
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nickso said:
grahamderek said:
Check the pump and motorised valve(s)
Click to expand...

if they are ok then its probably the thermistor or the pcb. version three pcb has a fault identical to this and the thermistors dont often fail on these.
Click to expand...


Looks like I might have the same problem now, after having had 2 new PCBs in 2008 to fix a red LED problem...

How do I identify version 3 PCB? I took the control unit apart and took some pics.
 
I'm not too sure how to check the version, but my problem was the pcb in the end...
 
You should better start your own posting rather than adding to an old one ( which had no conclusion then because the OP clearly did not have any basic skills to do the first steps of identifying boiler faults and no body wanted to tell him ).

I did not know that there were three different design versions of the PCBs. I have only seen the two different part numbers for that size of boiler but perhaps Nickso can give further information.

The later plastic cased PCB rarely fails after its used to replace the original type. The PCB is not the only part which can cause a fault on a boiler. On the last three Suprimas I have been to only one was the PCB.

Tony
 
first two versions have two LED's on the front and are not encased in plastic, probably made by some dodgy eastern bloc manufacturer.

last version has one lense for three LEDs and is encased in plastic, made by siemens and says so on the side.
 
I've done extensive reading into the Potterton PCB faults because my Suprima has been locking out at least twice a day. Recently however since turning the CH off so the boiler is only heating water for domestic use, it hasn't locked out now for several days. Does that suggest it is the pump for the CH that is the problem or, because the lockout would be only occasional, that the PCB sensor to the pump? Agile suggests several other Potterton faults he has come across. I am of two minds: should I take up Potterton on their £289 offer to repair the boiler and give a one-year guarantee, or should I ditch Potterton and replace it with something more reliable (general concensus, Worcester)?

Thanks in advance! E
 
Sounds like a motorised valve fault or even the pump. I used to know the fault sequence for these but can't recall now but think it was flashing red led=external fault (MV, pump, room stat, cylinder stat or programmer) or solid red light=internal meaning boiler fault.

Could be the other way round but you get the general drift.

You would better starting your own thread to be honest

Tony
 
You need to establish if the boiler is going to standby because the water in it has reached the temperature specified by the potentiometer on the pcb. It would do this quickly if it is not being circulated properly, so checking the flow & return pipe temperatures would give some indication of this.

If the water is not heated and is circulating but the boiler still goes onto standby, then there is a boiler fault as mentioned in previous posts.
 
Never assume whats inside a boiler until you have looked!
 
Agile said:
Never assume whats inside a boiler until you have looked!
Click to expand...

:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

glazier, the king of assumption, telling me off for assuming the construction of an LED, need i say any more?
 
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