Unable to remove heating element from HW cylinder.

L_Plate · 5 Oct 2008

I am having real difiiculty in removing a failed heater element from the cylinder. It is the upper of two 14inch 3kw type. The lower element has never been connected as there is not sufficient current available, so the upper one, now failed, provides all of the hot water to the flat. I am using a box-spanner but am reluctant to exert too much force in case of distorting the cylinder. I left this on Friday evening (two days ago) having been given a liberal spraying of WD40. Today I returned believing it could be removed. It didn't. I have left it once again doused in WD40 and intend to return tomorrow. Are there some elements that simply cannot be withdrawn 'cos it has become fused to the cylinder by the limescale? Don't really want tot have to put in a new cylinder?

Any advice much appreciated.

seco services · 5 Oct 2008

is the bottom element ok ?
if so wire that one up instead.

you can try removing the fibre washer between the element and cylinder that can make it easyer.
or i useally just drill and cut them out if they don't budge at all.

gasmick2 · 5 Oct 2008

as the other poster says just wire up the bottom one just means you will get a ful cyld of water, other than that i have removed them by using a bolster and a hammer and give the large nut a sharp tap in the right direction, that usaully is enough to release the seal then you might be able to use the box spanner be care full to heavy and it will distort the cyld i presume you have drained it ???

mick

L_Plate · 5 Oct 2008

Thanks, guys. I did think of connecting the lower element but on closer inspection one of the terminals seems to be rather bashed, so I decided against doing this.

Might give the hammer and bolster a go. If this does not work and the cylinder is still intact

I may try using the drill.

gasmick2 said:
i presume you have drained it ??? mick

I drained it partly in order to retain enough weight so as not to damage the connected pupework.

seco services · 5 Oct 2008

just be quick draining if you do split it.

L_Plate · 5 Oct 2008

Just when I was trying to look on the bright side.

weseeyou · 5 Oct 2008

I always used to use a 18" Stilsons on difficult to shift immersion heaters. The advantage is you get a more positive grip on the nut and much more leverage.
The Stilsons will grip tighter the more pressure you apply. As long as you hold the head square to the nut whilst using it ,the stilsons will not twist off the nut. 24" stilsons even better but bluudy heavy and often too big for the space.

There is always a risk of tearing the copper boss out of the cylinder but if the immersion is welded in through calcification its probablt time for a new cylinder anyway.

Try getting a good grip with the stilsons with the teeth starting to bite then wack the handle of the stilsons with a big hammer and shock start the thing.

L_Plate · 5 Oct 2008

Right, stisons and big hammer now added to lisr.

Thanks for the very helpful suggestions, chaps.

seco services · 5 Oct 2008

L_Plate said:
Right, stisons and big hammer now added to lisr.

Thanks for the very helpful suggestions, chaps.

make sure you do it then when the shops are open.

Rob · 5 Oct 2008

HEAT it up! Works wonders with old joints.

Also i find even leverage on both sides of your box spanner rod work better as its more of a twist than a pull.

weseeyou · 5 Oct 2008

rob884 said:
HEAT it up! Works wonders with old joints.

Also i find even leverage on both sides of your box spanner rod work better as its more of a twist than a pull.

yes thats a good point but its all down to experience at the end of the day. Years of replacing countless immersions you develop a feel for how much pressure to apply without damaging the boss whilst holding against any sudden release of the nut

L_Plate · 5 Oct 2008

seco services said:
make sure you do it then when the shops are open.

Absolutely.

rob884 said:
HEAT it up! Works wonders with old joints.

Also i find even leverage on both sides of your box spanner rod work better as its more of a twist than a pull.

The problem with heating it up is that I have left the drenched in WD40 and thats flammable.

spacethegas · 6 Oct 2008

only the propellant is flammable.

wot u need is.

Untitled

spacethegas
6 Oct 2008
1

Agile · 6 Oct 2008

I always prefer a two handed tool!

I use a very long stilson ( 36" ? ) and hit it rapidly but lightly with a hammer. Trying to emulate the one handed wheel nut air wrench at the tyre fitters where they do it up so tight no one else can get it undone!

I always use a little heat first!

Tony

L_Plate · 8 Oct 2008

Agile said:
I always prefer a two handed tool!

Tony

And that is what I ended up using. Following the excellent advice given I took some 18 inch stilsons, heavy hammer and drill all to no avail 'cos the WD40 had done its stuff and the element nut was removed quite easily with the box-spanner with tommy-bar.

There are a couple of problems but I will ask those separately. Meanwhile a big thanks to everybody who contributed to this thread.

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Unable to remove heating element from HW cylinder.

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