Maple Problem

Hysteresis · 18 Oct 2008

I have a self seeded Maple that I have been growing on in a container for about two years. The Maple is about 5ft high and has about 70% of its leaves covered in a white 'mould'.
View media item 55281. What is it?
2. How do I treat it?
3. How do I prevent it?
Any advice please

thebear843 · 21 Oct 2008

I had the same problem with my Maple tree one year.

I dont know the correct answer but I cut off all the affected leaves and threw them away.

I dont recall the problem reoccuring the following year.

Hysteresis · 21 Oct 2008

If I cut off all the affected leaves I would be left with so few that it would not be able to sustain itself. The leaves are now in the process of droppign for Autumn, so I will gather them up as they fall and distroy them. If the problem 'starts' to reoccur next year, I will do as you did as soon as it appears, on the assumption that if one leaf gets the problem, it may propogate to the others, and that is where I may have gone wrong i.e. just allowing the affected leaves to stay on the tree and thereby allowing it to infect the rest of the tree.
Thanks for the help, I will watch it closely next year.

Symptoms · 22 Oct 2008

Hyst - could be either Mildew or Botrytis, both of which develop when the plant is in cool and over-damp conditions. Maybe Google these for more info.

Don't over-water and make sure it's got plenty of air circulating around it (I notice it seems to be close to a wall - move it). If it gets choked-up with loads of leaf growth cut some of this away to open up the centre of the tree to help with air circulation and don't over feed the beast. Is it in a clay pot? If it is, only water when you see the compost beginning to pull away from the inside edge of the crock (a gap) or tap the crock and only water when you hear a hollow 'ring' - by using this technique you avoid over-watering. IMO it's usually better to be very, very slightly 'cruel' to pot plants ... 90% of plants die 'cos their owner have been too kind to them.

Burn all the dodgy leaves and next year if it re-appears spray it with a copper fungicide. There are stronger chemical treatments available but only use these as a last resort.

Hysteresis · 22 Oct 2008

Symptoms said:
Hyst - could be either Mildew or Botrytis, both of which develop when the plant is in cool and over-damp conditions. Maybe Google these for more info.

Don't over-water and make sure it's got plenty of air circulating around it (I notice it seems to be close to a wall - move it). If it gets choked-up with loads of leaf growth cut some of this away to open up the centre of the tree to help with air circulation and don't over feed the beast. Is it in a clay pot? If it is, only water when you see the compost beginning to pull away from the inside edge of the crock (a gap) or tap the crock and only water when you hear a hollow 'ring' - by using this technique you avoid over-watering. IMO it's usually better to be very, very slightly 'cruel' to pot plants ... 90% of plants die 'cos their owner have been too kind to them.

Burn all the dodgy leaves and next year if it re-appears spray it with a copper fungicide. There are stronger chemical treatments available but only use these as a last resort.

Thanks Symptoms,
I think you may havegot it. The tree is very young and Air circulation I don't think is a problem as the tree is essentially one shoot with a few leaves off it. I was so proud of the fact that this lovely tree seemed to have self rooted that I was being very kind, as I thought, to it.
It is in a plastic pot and I have fed it with a general fertiliser (Miracle Grow) and watered it regularly, both of these are apparently wrong. I will, I think, transplant it into my Garden when the leaves drop and it is dormant.
My garden suffers from water logging due to a very heavy 'blue clay' table about 12ins down so I may not be successful with the relanting as water may be a problem. Thanks for the advice and it appears I have beeen over kind to this lovely tree.

Hysteresis · 22 Oct 2008

Hi Symptoms,
Sorry to bother you but you appear to know infinitely more about trees thani do. I recovered an Oak Sapling from an area of woodland next to my home. I have nurtured this sapling for about 5 years and now it is about 8ft tall and still in a plastic pot. Do the same watering and feeding rules apply tothis Oak as you gave me for the Maple.
I have four Acer Palmatums in pots which I think I should plant out into my garden. I have been told in the past that Palmatums require plenty of water in the Summer and so avoid so called wind burn, and kept dry in the winter. Do you agree with this regime.
The Maple I talked about earlier is literally a stem about 4ft tall with leaves hanging off that one stem every 6 inches or so. There are no secondary branches being formed. Does this sound right or am I doing something wrong, or will secondary branches form after a few years. I seeded from Horse Chestnuts, half a dozed trees, all seem to be doing OK but the also are not developing secondary branches, these are presently in their third year similar to the Maple I have been trying to nurture.
I would appreciate any advice.

Symptoms · 23 Oct 2008

Hyst - it's fun growing trees from seed, or finding a seeding sprouting then potting it on; there comes a time however, when they need to go into the ground. There's no hard and fast rule for this but I use common sense ... have they out-grown the pot (look top heavy) or the location. I also like producing bonsai from found seedlings. Try it.

Anyway, your trees ... single stems - don't worry as they're likely to produce secondary branches when ready - I'd avoid taking out the crown growth to encourage seconds as you may affect the natural shape of the tree. But that's a personal choice.

The earlier advice about watering/feeding should IMO be observed with container stuff. Once in the ground = plenty of watering until established ... tip, when planting in ground install a length of 2" dia plastic tube (waste pipe) from above ground to base of root ball - water into this to ensure the roots get the juice (watering on the surface will not wet the roots effectively and cause problems for their development).

Hysteresis · 23 Oct 2008

Hi Symptoms,
Thanks for the advice, I think my present crop of trees have not as yet outgrown their pots but I think they will be happier in the ground.
I have four Acer Palmatums, which are delightful trees and I think are now about pot bound. I am going to dig out a bed in the missle of my lawn for these as they will look fantasitic in a group display. I manage this at the moment by moving the pots around but if I keep this up much longer I fear I may loose them.
Thanks again or the advice.

simonpolly · 24 Mar 2009

I had exactly the same problem on a maple i purchased from a garden centre,crimson king i think its called,is about 6/7ft tall at the moment,i sprayed it last year which seemed to prevent the mildew from taking hold,i don`t know what i`ll do when its 25ft tall

Since then i have been looking around at a few mature trees and alot seem to have the same problem.

Hysteresis · 25 Mar 2009

simonpolly said:
I had exactly the same problem on a maple i purchased from a garden centre,crimson king i think its called,is about 6/7ft tall at the moment,i sprayed it last year which seemed to prevent the mildew from taking hold,i don`t know what i`ll do when its 25ft tall Since then i have been looking around at a few mature trees and alot seem to have the same problem.

What did you spray it with?

simonpolly · 29 Mar 2009

Fungus fighter, it can be used on shrubs and roses,brought from a gardn centre

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Maple Problem

thebear843

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