lead lite window

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Essex
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I have just recently smashed a reclaimed lead lite window whilst changing the beading, basically i turned round and it fell out and is now pretty unrepairable.
I've decided to reconstruct it myself....
Can anyone tell me where i can get the lead from and how to solder the lead together?
Is it the same process as soldering wires i.e heat the two pieces of lead together or is there a lead solder used???
Any help and advice would be grateful.
Best regards.
rik.
 
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You could do it with the stick on type from decraled

I did this one in my vestibule, my first attempt.

Lead sticks either side of glass on a template (notice its got bubbles in :( )
Your supposed to be able to solder it too.

Took me a couple of hours to do.

0810040006.jpg


You will need leaded solder, be careful as lots these days is lead free.
 
rik - all is not lost as all the bits you need are available.

The most important question ... is the glass OK? Not the end of the world if you've got clean breaks and big bits left; it's possible to mount these in lead. However, glass supplies are readily available and matching is possible.

The lead sections are called lead came, these come in a couple of profiles - U (for outside borders, H for borders between the glass fields). You need a high wattage soldering iron to make the joints.

Another method of fixing the bits together is by using copper foil, which when wrapped around the meeting edges of the glass fields, is then soldered to produce the tell-tale lead appearance. This method is used for light stuff like Tiffanny lamps and isn't really suitable for windows (unless really small). This foil method is easier for the novice.

How to go about the repair: work on a sheet of ply or chipboard, layout all the glass bits in order to re-create the pattern, mark the patterm (cartoon) on the board below (lift the bits of glass in turn to do this then lay them down again). Cut the appropriate cames to length (over-lay on the glass and snip to length), fit the cames to the glass, then hold everything in position with panel pins or similar (hence the ply layout board). Now the hard part ... the soldering. Flux each joint in turn (use a small artist's brush or similar), apply heat to the joint with the iron (assumes you've prepared the iron by 'tinning' the bit to help produce a clean, even flowed joint). Don't over heat 'cos you'll melt the came away and create a hole also you must use the correct solder not any old stuff you might have in the tool box. When all the soldering is done whip out the panel pins, flip the window over (helps if you have a second ply board to sandwich the glass for the flip), then solder the joints on the second side.

To finish off close any gaps with pressure, fill with sealing 'cement' (maybe with whiting added), apply lead Patina. Job done.

The key to all of this is practice with the soldering iron, and more practice - use short bits of came to do this on.

There are loads of decorative glass suppliers around, many doing mail order, but I'd check locally (Yellow Pages maybe) to see if there any so you can match glass. You'll get the cames, soldering iron, flux, solder, cement, etc. from these places.
 
Symptoms,
Thanks alot for your advice, am going to a place today after work my friend advised me to get lead and glass from.
I'm really looking forward to it, i saw a program on TV years ago and remember the method you explain with plyboard etc and had a basic idea of how it works.
If this all goes well i'll be making another piece for above some reclaimed double doors i've fitted with the same tulip design....
I've been waiting about 4 months for my friend who sold me the doors and the now smashed window to make the new piece.
If i have any more problems i'll sure to post a request for further advice but i guess its like you say practice.
cheers
rik.
 
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Dont forget to post a pic when your done & let us know how hard it was etc.
 
rik - all is not lost as all the bits you need are available.

The most important question ... is the glass OK? Not the end of the world if you've got clean breaks and big bits left; it's possible to mount these in lead. However, glass supplies are readily available and matching is possible.

The lead sections are called lead came, these come in a couple of profiles - U (for outside borders, H for borders between the glass fields). You need a high wattage soldering iron to make the joints.

Another method of fixing the bits together is by using copper foil, which when wrapped around the meeting edges of the glass fields, is then soldered to produce the tell-tale lead appearance. This method is used for light stuff like Tiffanny lamps and isn't really suitable for windows (unless really small). This foil method is easier for the novice.

How to go about the repair: work on a sheet of ply or chipboard, layout all the glass bits in order to re-create the pattern, mark the patterm (cartoon) on the board below (lift the bits of glass in turn to do this then lay them down again). Cut the appropriate cames to length (over-lay on the glass and snip to length), fit the cames to the glass, then hold everything in position with panel pins or similar (hence the ply layout board). Now the hard part ... the soldering. Flux each joint in turn (use a small artist's brush or similar), apply heat to the joint with the iron (assumes you've prepared the iron by 'tinning' the bit to help produce a clean, even flowed joint). Don't over heat 'cos you'll melt the came away and create a hole also you must use the correct solder not any old stuff you might have in the tool box. When all the soldering is done whip out the panel pins, flip the window over (helps if you have a second ply board to sandwich the glass for the flip), then solder the joints on the second side.

To finish off close any gaps with pressure, fill with sealing 'cement' (maybe with whiting added), apply lead Patina. Job done.

The key to all of this is practice with the soldering iron, and more practice - use short bits of came to do this on.

There are loads of decorative glass suppliers around, many doing mail order, but I'd check locally (Yellow Pages maybe) to see if there any so you can match glass. You'll get the cames, soldering iron, flux, solder, cement, etc. from these places.

Hi Symptoms,
Just started to address my smashed window after tracking down glass and cames etc...
Having extreme difficulty cutting the glass and then seperating it without breaking it???
I borrowed a glass cutter off a friend of mine, he said its been worn in for about four years and wouldbe better for cutting???
I'm not sure about this hence i keep breaking the glass.....
Is there a technique i'm missing here because coloured glass is not cheap!!!
please can you give me some advice...
Would a new cutting tip/blade be better for cutting shapes out??
I look forward to your response!
Cheers
rik. photo's will follow!
 
Hi Symptoms,
Please can you help?
I've just started to address my window, have sketched out the pattern and have started to attempt cutting out the shapes for the coloured glass design.....
Only problem is i keep breaking the glass!!!!
Is there a technique i'm missing???
The glass cutter is about for years old and worn in and was told that it is better to cut with????
Is that correct or should i be using a new diamond/blade.
Gonna run out of coloured glass at this rate...
Photo's will follow when there something to photo!!!
I look forward to your response.
Cheers
rik.
 
rik - the glass cutter should not be "worn in", if it is it should have a new cutting wheel fitted. If the cutter is a Fletcher No 8 or a Shaw they take a 5/32" steel wheel which is designed to cut tight curves. The cutter will have a steel ball on the opposite end of the handle - this is used to tap along the scored line (on the opposite side of the glass) to encourage the glass to break. The notches in the cutter are designed to nibble bits of glass away. Lubricate the cutter - keep the cutter in a jam jar, with a bit of rag in the bottom (prevents the wheel from damage when placed in the jar), containing a lube of oil/paraffin mix (1 : 2). Press the cutter wheel and pull towards you, this will score the glass, flip it and tap as above.

The advice about a worn-in cutter is bollo*ks, if you can't source a new wheel for it buy a new cutter - they're not that expensive. Don't waste your money on a diamond jobby.
 
Hi all,
Still working on the window due to not having time to complete, have been working overtime 7 days a week last couple of months.
Overall its harder than i thought, and having cut all the glass to a pattern with allowing 2 to 3 MM for the lead cames i found that i'd not cut the glass small enough, so i've had to trim the class again which has been a pain in the butt rather than starting from scratch again, the cost of more new glass being one issue.
My soldered joints are not something to be desiried but i'm sure they wont be that visible when the glass is above the front door.
But i've had to abandon this project for the mean time due to my girlfriend demanding we have the dining table back for Christmas.
Estimated completion some time over the festive holidays, and will post pictures.
regards and christmas tidings,
rik.
 
riklee2003, where about are you in Essex? I've been doing stained lead light windows for over 2 yrs now, it's easy when you know how with practise, you need to be shown how to do it as you cannot not do this on your own. The correct tools are very important including the soldering iron that cannot melt the lead came etc. If it just for 1 window, it's might be cheaper to have it repaired than buying all the materials & the correct tools unless you want to do it as a hobby.
 
Well guys, know its been a long time but have finihed it at long last.
Must take picture of the finished job.
Masona, thanks for the info but i've got the hang of it, 100w soldering iron, lead cames etc.
Hardest bit was having cut the glass just slightly to big and not allowing enough clearence for the web of the lead came throwing everything out, then having to try and trim the class pieces already cut.
This was my first crack at it, and having completed it am prepared to make a larger window above a set of matching double doors from my friends reclaim yard, which is what started this all off in the first place.
Am thinking of getting a water fed tile/glass cutter this time for trimming and shaping the more awkward pieces.
[/img]
 
Hardest bit was having cut the glass just slightly to big and not allowing enough clearence for the web of the lead came throwing everything out, then having to try and trim the class pieces already cut.
The correct way is use the same thickness felt tip pen as the centre of the lead came 2mm or 3mm depending in the size of the lead came then the glass will be the right size every time. How are you getting the shape of the glass? In your drawing you don't need 3 lines, only 1 which is the centre of the lead came. Are you using plywood for the base to make your window on? I don't know how much you know, are you using horseshoe nails etc
Am thinking of getting a water fed tile/glass cutter this time for trimming and shaping the more awkward pieces. [/img]
Really no need, all you want is a glass grinder water fed with 1/4" and 1/2" grinder head
grind_glass.JPG
 
I'm doing this one today and don't know if this's any help, are you doing it like this?

STA72711.jpg
[/img]

My glass grinder

STA72708.jpg


My kitchen door, the most difficult so far!

STA72697.jpg
 
Hello Masona,
Thank you for your input and advise, i've a long way to go before i start producing scenery styled glass work, purely a hobby really only to produce a couple of windows, not more than that, until i move to a new house that needs some features restored.
First i made a tracing of the feature from one of the reclaimed glass doors, then pinned it to a piece of ply board and sketched the rest in to make a whole window section, only allowing 1-2 mm for the web of the lead cames not enough at all, also i should of got lead came for thicker glass.... found very hard to fit the glass in without having to open the cames up wider.
Holding the glass in place with panel pins, and placing the cames in position.
Cracked loads of glass trying to cut right angles? i've realised it can't be done the glass always carries on the crack from the right angle point, but a tight radius works.
And recutting the cut glass pieces is not easy, needs to be right the first time... thats where a glass grinder would be very useful and to finally shape the glass.
Soldering wasn't as hard as i thought, looks better from a distance though after all i'm not perfect. but everyone is impressed and thats all that counts.
Next the bigger window about another 12 inches wider, when time allows have plenty of other jobs to do, the misses always has a list that just keeps getting longer..
How much is a grinder? i bought a hobby craft grinder thinking it would solve my glass trimming problems but found the glass far to hard for the cutting wheels and grinding stones.
cheers rik.
 
It's easy when you know how and a bit difficult to explain on the forum. I hardly break any glass only when it vented out because the way the glass is made, also are you cutting on the smooth side of the glass? You shouldn't have to open up the lead came and should be 3mm thickness glass to allows for the lead cement, where about are you in Essex?

The glass grinder cost me £104 but there're some cheaper model

I buy my stuff from here,

http://www.tempsfordstainedglass.co.uk/

https://www.creativeglassguild.co.uk/catalog/?gclid=CILGpJfF45gCFdCS3wodijIGdA

The glass and lead came from here, no good if you having a small order

http://www.pearsonsglass.com/home.asp

I also collect pattern glass from skip with the owner permission
 

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