which radiator pipe is the inflow and which the outflow

Joined
19 Dec 2008
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
We're in the process of changing a bathroom and moved the radiator. All the pipework is done and floors are currently being laid. The radiator is a dual fuel towel radiator with one angled and one straight valve. We need to determine which pipe is the inflow to the radiator and which pipe is the outflow (unfortunately these pipes were not marked when the old radiator was removed) to cut the floor boards. Furthermore, the boiler is not working and a new boiler would be installed in a few weeks. To install the radiator and see whether it works is therefore not possible. Is there a way to determine which pipe is the inflow and which is the outflow without installing the radiator is there is currently no working boiler?
 
Sponsored Links
Hottest is the flow, coolest is the return.

By the way, you have posted this in the electric forum???
 
The valve on the flow pipe can normally be opened or closed using the plastic cover, the cover of the return valve is normally pulled off to access a square shaft which controls the valve
 
Sponsored Links
from your desc, not sure you can. does it matter to dual fuel rads then...not fitted one
 
A towel rail generally does not have a trv so flow and return pipes do not matter.
If you have a trv most modern units are bi flow so again it does not matter.

The heating element you are installing in your towel rail likewise does not care which side you attach it to as the boiler/pump will be off during the summer months when I guess you intend to use it.

Pete
 
towel rails are not know for their great heat output so an electrical element in the way will make it even poorer.
on top of that the likely corrosion of the element
 
towel rails are not know for their great heat output so an electrical element in the way will make it even poorer.
on top of that the likely corrosion of the element

If the heat output is lower than the average radiator, then the heat input requirement will be correspondingly low, so there is little need for a 'full bore' 15mm connection. Usually the lockshield would be throttled right back to achieve anything like an appropriate temperature drop across the radiator anyway.

Why would an immersion element significantly increase corrosion in a system already full of cuprous and ferrous parts, not to mention the zinc, tin, lead, cadmium, aluminium and other metals already present?
 
I took "the likely corrosion of the element" to mean that the element would be likely to corrode because of what's floating round in the system, not that it would contribute to any system-wide corrosion going on....
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top