Baxi solo WM 60/4 RS not firing up - checking solenoid help?

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Hi,

Need some help please, my boiler was working fine but later onin the day I noticed the centrtal heating had stopped, checking the boiler I noticed it had gone off, pilot light is on but it refuses to fire up. This particular model doesnt seem to have a pcb, I have checked all fuses and all seems ok.

Now I have checked the solenoid and it shows a resistance of 0.3 ohms (open circuit?) and refuses to show any voltage yet upto that point i'm getting 240 volts... can someone clarify if this indicates a duff solenoid? Many thanks
 
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just to confirm its definately 0.3 ohms and not kilo or mega ohms, should i also be expecting 240 volts across a healthy solenoid?
 
have you tried pressing the resetable overheat stat located next to the thermostat on the front panel its a red star shaped button just press it hard until it clicks
And i have just looked at the M Is for the 60rs and there is a pcb it containsa the pump overun etc
 
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thanks for replying, I cannot find this button anywhere, I'm beginning to think maybe the thermostat has previously been changed perhaps because I just cannot find it anywhere, from what i have read an extinguised pilot light would require this to be reset (which hasnt gone out)

Would you please be able to point out the location of the pcb as I cannot see it anywhere, thank you
 
neither HW or CH are working, the burner is just not firing up, I can hear a sound from near the tank in the airing cupboard upstairs which sounds like the pump when I turn on the power to the boiler downstairs, the pilot is on but is just not firing up
 
Chaps, I just need to verify the solenoid is ok, do the very low (o.3 ohm) resistance readings sound ok? All that tells me is there is continuity, but I read somewhere that the resistance should be alot higher than that (although it was a different model admittedly)

Can anyone please let me know what the correct reading (circa) should be for the solenoid and if it indeed needs changing or is ok?? Thank you
 
0.3 Ohms is a dead short. not an open circuit!
I don't remember those particularly but would expect something between a few hundred, and 1200 Ohms.
From the hugely sphisticated circuit:

75607559gy7.gif


it would appear that if the solenoid has gone short, the thermostat would be fried too and probably the fuse blown.

This doesn't make sense to me, where is there 240V?

refuses to show any voltage yet upto that point i'm getting 240 volts
 
Finally sorted it, thanks for all your replies
Well here's the story (for anyone else looking)... had an engineer visit me and inspect the boiler, as he was doing so I hinted it could be the solenoid but didnt want to be rude as this guy was a professional corgi engineer, anyway I was a little put off by his not so well founded comments, he finally summarised it needed a new gas valve which would cost £97 + fitting, he would get back to me on Monday with a confirmed price and left. I was so convinced this guy wasnt as experienced as he had made out I immediately got myselft a new solenoid from ebay for £18 and drove down and picked it up. Took me 5 mins fitting and hew presto it fired up!!! Result!!!

Once again, thank you for your help :D
 
Did this fellow charge you for coming and diagnosing the fault?

Tony
 
This is exactly why i won help anybody diagnose a problem with their boiler on these Forums,this should be a lesson to all Gas men on here :evil:
 
No he didnt charge, believe he didnt live to far from my area

Slapper as for your comment :rolleyes: ;) i'm a realist :LOL:

Once again, great forum and thank you to all :)
 
Thats why we always charge for diagnosing a fault! We then usually fit any part needed free ( apart from the cost of the part ).

If after we have diagnosed the fault the owner wants to do it himself or get someone else then thats up to him.

Tony
 

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