hi, doing my own smallish timber frame build. I am after 90mm nails. I see you can readily get for nailing guns whose heads look like half circles but i was more hoping to be able to get them loose in 90mm for hand nailing. Don't want to go up to 100mm and wasn't wanting to buy/hire a nailgun unless have to.
timber framing nails
- Thread starter climber101
- Start date
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climber - consider using screws 90mm long for your "smallish timber frame build". Using these will be less disruptive to your timber frame than using individual nails inserted with a hammer, even if you used 90mm nails (and the only nails that length I know are 3½" cut clasp nails - or 100mm jobbies skewed at an angle). The point about framing nailers is they'll insert nails without the 'banging' disruption to the frame.
If, however, your "smallish timber frame build" is a shed or bigger then clearly using screws will be a lot slower than using a nailer ... maybe you'll have to 'bite the bullet' and hire the tackle (if you buy then you'll also have to factor in the cost of the compressor or get a gas nailer).
If, however, your "smallish timber frame build" is a shed or bigger then clearly using screws will be a lot slower than using a nailer ... maybe you'll have to 'bite the bullet' and hire the tackle (if you buy then you'll also have to factor in the cost of the compressor or get a gas nailer).
interesting Symtoms, thanks,
i was thinking using screws but think am tending towards 'biting the bullet' like you say..
i was thinking using screws but think am tending towards 'biting the bullet' like you say..
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Get yourself a gas nailer for the build and then e-bay it when you've finished. When you figure in the cost of a nailer in the price of a whole build it's peanuts and will pay for itself in time saved.
thanks for comments, question for Richard C (and symptoms) please where you say you have used screws all the time what type have you used im thinking if i go this route to go galvanised screws like those that are generally sold for decking. Also i'm guessing you are drilling pilot holes as well to avoid risk of splitting or are you just taking chance and driving them in. Only thing i'm thinking i have against using screws is thinking havin to countersink quite a few of the heads in so that joins fit better etc which is a bit of a faff but at the same time it wil be stronger...the decisions !... 
p.s. in total i have about 14 m of timber frame to construct
p.s. in total i have about 14 m of timber frame to constructDon’t use decking screws, use ordinary Zink plated PZ2’s; they aren’t galvanised any more!. I use a combination of no 8’s & 10’s, 60mm, 80mm & 100mm long, depending on where they are.
No pilot holes (or rarely) just wack em in with a power driver; 8’s, 10's & even 12’s will rarely split stud timber unless it’s very dry or your careless. It does happen sometimes but it doesn’t matter, the joint will still be far stronger than with nails. You don’t need to countersink! drive the screws in diagonally, inside the stud not on the face; this is a stud partition not a bespoke drinks cabinet, just keep the faces of the studs & noggines square & flat.Also i'm guessing you are drilling pilot holes as well to avoid risk of splitting or are you just taking chance and driving them in. Only thing i'm thinking i have against using screws is thinking havin to countersink quite a few of the heads in so that joins fit better etc which is a bit of a faff but at the same time it wil be stronger...the decisions !...
many thanks Richard C , very helpful and i'm still pi**ing myself with your "bespoke drinks cabinet..." comment excellent! mind made up for me i'm going for screws - it will also be easier to correct any of my carpentry errors..
, very helpful and i'm still pi**ing myself with your "bespoke drinks cabinet..." comment excellent! mind made up for me i'm going for screws - it will also be easier to correct any of my carpentry errors..DIYnot Local
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