S
swidders
Is it possible to dot and dab aquapanel instead of using studwork?
Sponsored Links
Knauf say no but it can be done; dot & dab the panels to the wall in the usual way but make sure know exactly where the adhesive dots are. Once the panel is fixed & the adhesive has gone off, fix the panels to the wall using suitable length through fixings (frame screws). The screws must pass through the panel & into the wall where the adhesive is or the panels will crack when you tighten the fixings.
S
swidders
Thanks. So the boards still need a mechanical fix anyway?
Yes, the D&D is really just to level out the boards & hold them in place while you mechanically fix with screws; just saves you the space if it's critical.
Sponsored Links
S
swidders
Thanks - 5 to 10 mm adhesive less space than 25mm battens.
Not sure which is quicker since (I'd imagine) rawlplug needed for each screw.
Suppose the two (speed and space) most easily resolved by using green board and tanking and sack the aquapanel,
Thanks again
Not sure which is quicker since (I'd imagine) rawlplug needed for each screw.
Suppose the two (speed and space) most easily resolved by using green board and tanking and sack the aquapanel,
Thanks again
No you don’t that’s the whole point, you fix the boards with adhesive first & use these through the dots of adhesive when it's dry;
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/48136...her Nylon Frame Fixings 10 x 100mm Pack of 50
You may not need them as long as this but they come in different sizes & B&Q also sell something similar.
S
swidders
I'm getting a bit confused here. If I can dot and dab the panel to the wall, why do I need to screw through to fix them to the wall? Thought the whole point of glueing them was to avoid mechanical fixing.
If this is necessary - what spacing should I place the screws, and hence the dabs?
If this is necessary - what spacing should I place the screws, and hence the dabs?
Because the adhesive on its own will not support the weight of the board on the wall, certainly not in the long-term; it could fall off & THAT’S WHY KNAUF DONT RECOMMEND IT! But if you provide mechanical fixings through, say, every other dot, the board ain’t going anywhere!
The precise method of dot & dab is “defined” by various guides & even plasterboard manufacturers. I, along with many other, have my own method which consists of using a large wooden kitchen spoon & placing “dots” of adhesive around every 250mm apart @ 250mm centres & then another dot in between around the edge of the boards for extra support. It’s, therefore, important to know roughly where the dots of adhesive are so you can fix through them into the wall behind with the screws; if you get it wrong, you could crack the boards when you tighten the fixings up!
S
swidders
So, the bottom line is that the adhesive is being used primarily as a spacer between the board and the substrate, and that the real strength comes from the mechanical fixings which could be frame fixers as you suggest or rawlplugs and screws as I alluded to.
Yes the strength comes from the mechanical fixings. The adhesive is used both as method of initial fixing (while you screw the board to the wall) & a as a mechanical spacer (once it goes off) to even out any unevenness in the wall so that the board has a nice flat & solid bearing when you fix it with the screws. If you use separate (Rawl type) plugs & screws then you will have to;
• pre- drill the backer board
• hold the board up on to the wall while you transfer the fixing positions
• drill all the holes for the fixing plugs in the wall
• put the board back up & screw it to the wall hoping that all the fixing holes line up; can be rather difficult!
Without being levelled & trued on a bed of adhesive first, the boards are unlikely to be level if the wall isn’t totally flat, it will then distort & probably crack when you attempt to put any sort of tension in the screws where they coincide with voids.
• pre- drill the backer board
• hold the board up on to the wall while you transfer the fixing positions
• drill all the holes for the fixing plugs in the wall
• put the board back up & screw it to the wall hoping that all the fixing holes line up; can be rather difficult!
Without being levelled & trued on a bed of adhesive first, the boards are unlikely to be level if the wall isn’t totally flat, it will then distort & probably crack when you attempt to put any sort of tension in the screws where they coincide with voids.
S
swidders
Ok - was considering using rawlplugs as a way of saving money!! (penny wise - pound foolish).
I usually drill through the object to be hung straight into the wall and force the rawlplug through. This would be ok if the boards were already tacked in place, but I suppose it would be somewhat dangerous to force anything through such a brittle sheet.
You must think I'm some sort of half-wit by now. Probably true, but I do understand what you're saying, and based upon your experience, will follow your advice.
I usually drill through the object to be hung straight into the wall and force the rawlplug through. This would be ok if the boards were already tacked in place, but I suppose it would be somewhat dangerous to force anything through such a brittle sheet.
You must think I'm some sort of half-wit by now. Probably true, but I do understand what you're saying, and based upon your experience, will follow your advice.
That’s not a good idea with conventional plugs whatever you’re fixing as the holes will then be too large for the screw; for maximum strength & to aviod the fixings pulling through, the holes should be drilled the recommended clearance fit.
Beginning to think it was either a wind up, an inquisition or some sort of test!
hey Richard, i wonder if the new dry fix foam adhesives will grab a tile backer/aqua panel board?
have you used the stuff yet?
have you used the stuff yet?
S
swidders
Beginning to think it was either a wind up, an inquisition or some sort of test!
So, just to clarify, I glue the rawlplugs in place and screw the nails into these. Right, how do I affix the spring toggles?
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
