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who makes b & q pro power tools ?
who makes b & q pro
- Thread starter onion_soup
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Now I find this really hard to believe, but I have been told that they are made by Makita 
The source of my information is pretty sound, but I'm still undecided, wether I am having my leg pulled.
Have you been told something equally unlikely?
The source of my information is pretty sound, but I'm still undecided, wether I am having my leg pulled.Have you been told something equally unlikely?
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best i can get is ....' made in far east I use it and then throw it away '
my response ...' you must be rich then...'
answer.......' no i build it into price of job ..'
me
I also want to know who makes power tools for wickes too and I have seen WORX tools with 3yr warranty supposed to be pro tools ?
* confused so many new names who to trust ? *
my response ...' you must be rich then...'
answer.......' no i build it into price of job ..'
me
I also want to know who makes power tools for wickes too and I have seen WORX tools with 3yr warranty supposed to be pro tools ?
* confused so many new names who to trust ? *
had the cordless circ saw for 2 yrs certainly not ready to throw it away
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kevplumb said:had the cordless circ saw for 2 yrs certainly not ready to throw it away
which one ?
the one with 2 batteries ?
I bought the B&Q pro plunge router
The plunge lock won't lock. The locking lever is made of soft plastic with an octagonal recess which fits over the octagonal head of a brass screw. If you try to use enough force to lock the plunge, the soft plastic deforms and turns on the screw. So I removed the plastic lever and now use a spanner, but even that is dodgy because its an octagon not a hex, so its very easy to round off the screw head. The end result is, you can't lock the plunge so your depth of cut varies.
The plunge mechanism has loads of stiction.
There is so much free play in the plunge that you can't accurately set a depth of cut.
The base is not concentric with the armature/collet. So when using a template collar, the distance from the collar OD to the cutter OD varies as you go around the template.
I could go on, but the point is it is so bad as to be unusable, it has ruined some very nice pieces of wood and I have had to replace it with something which will actually do the job.
To answer the question, I don't know who makes them but they are a waste of money.
The plunge lock won't lock. The locking lever is made of soft plastic with an octagonal recess which fits over the octagonal head of a brass screw. If you try to use enough force to lock the plunge, the soft plastic deforms and turns on the screw. So I removed the plastic lever and now use a spanner, but even that is dodgy because its an octagon not a hex, so its very easy to round off the screw head. The end result is, you can't lock the plunge so your depth of cut varies.
The plunge mechanism has loads of stiction.
There is so much free play in the plunge that you can't accurately set a depth of cut.
The base is not concentric with the armature/collet. So when using a template collar, the distance from the collar OD to the cutter OD varies as you go around the template.
I could go on, but the point is it is so bad as to be unusable, it has ruined some very nice pieces of wood and I have had to replace it with something which will actually do the job.
To answer the question, I don't know who makes them but they are a waste of money.
B
breezer
max_depth said:
that is your opinion, perhaps you "got a bad one" I am nothing to do with them, its just that you bought it knowing it was cheap, so what do you expect? quality costs, it always has done and always will do.
that said, there is some expensive rubbish out there too
yes the one with two batteries ideal tool for floorboards
Cheap tools are a liability to a tradesman who's time is money. Some of the gear I use I've had many years, it gets well used and abused too whereas most diy'ers tools are locked in the shed 51 weeks of the year.
A mate of mine helped me one day putting in many hundreds of 100mm screws into joists (cross joisting). He'd just bought the latest 24v cordless 'drill' from Argos and this was its first outing.
After about 20 screws it started to sound different............
After about 40 screws the gearbox exploded internally.
He took it back that same day. What a load of cr*p.
A mate of mine helped me one day putting in many hundreds of 100mm screws into joists (cross joisting). He'd just bought the latest 24v cordless 'drill' from Argos and this was its first outing.
After about 20 screws it started to sound different............
After about 40 screws the gearbox exploded internally.
He took it back that same day. What a load of cr*p.
B
breezer
JerryD said:
never forget the time my old (and well used) b&d mains drill (before cordless) the gear box went on that, i didn't know you could get that much oil into a drill.
Thing was, i wasn't using it when it went, i was in stitches when it went
B
breezer
as it happens, no i did get another b & d one but it wasn't £30.
Someone who works for B & D told me that there drills were designed to last for 10 hours of drilling before giving up the ghost.
The small print on the B&Q pro tools says they are not designed for professional use. I bought a Jigsaw which was shocking - didn't cut straight. Took it back and said it wasn't up to 'pro' standards. They told me to sling my hook!
Always buy the best you can afford and avoid the sheds!
The small print on the B&Q pro tools says they are not designed for professional use. I bought a Jigsaw which was shocking - didn't cut straight. Took it back and said it wasn't up to 'pro' standards. They told me to sling my hook!
Always buy the best you can afford and avoid the sheds!
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