10mm is the standard joint size, or 3/8 before we went metric. You might have to increase or decrease the size depending on what height you need to reach, or if you are matching existing work.
when working to an existing build we measure 10, 20 or 30 courses of the existing brickwork and see how it averages. Multiples of 10 are easier to calculate.
Typically, 83-84mm (brick & joint) is what you end up with. But as said, measure up to the window and door heads and see what you need to gauge.
It is better to keep an average joint going rather than suddenly muck-up or screw down.
Something at about 12mm looks better and more in proportion to the brick unit - and this includes the perp joints too. Unless you are laying white glazed bricks - remember those?
However some bricks will cause the joints to look wider than normal when pointed, or some pointing can make the joints look wider, so it all really depends on what looks right when finished.
But TBH, you will probably just gauge down from the frame heads or soffit level etc and just see what works
Its a matter of personal taste of what looks best on joint size, but given the choice on face work I prefer to grind down rather than bump up. I think smaller joints look neater although a tight gauge is harder to work to. Even on face blockwork I like a 10mm joint, rather than 20mm rubbed up with a piece of hose.
The Yanks use a good tool for gauging joints down from frame height etc. Known as a brick rule its just has numbers on it from 1-10, each number about 1/2 mm from the next one. As you go higher up the numbers space out more. To mark out the gauge rod you see which number is on the mark, say 9 and then mark off all the 9's on the rod.
personally i prefer tight joints, they look alot neater.
if you are using bricks with a good clean edge you can get away with a wider joint-say 12mm,if not stick to 10mm
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