Floribunda roses - planting distances

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I'm planting a rose border for the first time. Wanted 'gaudy' so have 12 floribunda roses, different varieties with varying heights and spreads. How far apart should they be planted?

(Korresia, English Miss, Evelyn Fison, Baby Bio, Summer Dream, Margaret Merrill, Marlena, Glenfiddich, Pink Parfait - aspect sunny, soil slightly sandy, drainage good)

Any other preparation or cultivation tips most welcome. Thanks.
 
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Looks like i can repay you for your help on my thread - just found this for you -

Can I plant roses too close together or too far apart?
Yes. Spacing roses from 20 inches to 30 inches apart produces the best results. Wider spacing than 30 inches make the plants stand out as individuals and you lose the intimate mass effect a rose garden should present. Closer spacing than 20 inches will crowd the plants and restrict their growth.

Some extra info -

Proper planting gives even the hardiest rose bush the best chance of a long and healthy life. Most roses require at least 6 hours of full sun, but all day sun is best. Good soil and adequate moisture are just as important. To reduce fungus, if possible plant in a site that gets a gentle breeze to increase air circulation. And don’t crowd your plants, give them plenty of their own “air space”.

For bare root roses (no soil, not in a pot) soak the roots in a bucket of water while preparing the planting site. You can soak them up to 12 hours. Then dig a hole wider and deeper than the size of the roots, at least 18” wide and deep, and up to 24”. You can not dig a hole too big, but too small will crowd the roots. And roses do not like wet feet, but they do like lots of moisture. A deep hole will provide good drainage. This is especially important if you have clay or compacted soil that will trap water at the bottom of the hole. If you have sandy or loamy soil, 18” deep should be adequate.

Test the hole depth by placing the rose bush in it. Holding the bud onion (the “bump” that joins the stem and the root stock) at ground level, the roots should not touch the sides or the bottom of the hole. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of bone meal or superphosphate around the bottom of the hole to stimulate root development. Add compost to the soil you removed, a couple shovels full, and if your soil is clay also add peat moss in the same amount. You may also add extra NATURAL nutrients to the soil, an additional 1/2 cup bone meal and blood meal, and a cup of cottonseed meal. (Chemical fertilizers will burn new roots.) Mix it well, and add a small amount to the hole.

Working the amended soil in with soil from the bottom and sides of the hole, form a mound on the bottom of the hole, continuing to add more amended soil and working in soil from the sides until the mound is large enough to support the plant so the bud onion is just above ground level. As the loosened soil settles, the plant will settle lower, leaving the bud onion at ground level. Carefully arrange the roots so that the are not tangled or folded. Start adding amended soil, working it in lightly around the roots by hand, until the hole is about 3/4 full, then tamping the soil down lightly. Fill the hole completely with water and let it soak in, then fill again.

Now trim the canes (stems) back to about 6-10 inches and remove any damaged canes. If the canes are twice the size of the roots, there will not be enough root to feed the plant and the rose will grow spindly. Cut just above outside buds on the canes, cutting at an angle with a sharp rose pruner. Finish filling the hole, mounding up the excess right over the canes. This will protect the canes and keep them moist while the rose bush establishes it’s roots. The mound will compress over time with continued watering. If your rose was potted, the same principles apply, but you of course will not form a mound for the roots. Make sure the hole is at least 6 inches wider and deeper than the pot. If the bud onion can be seen, position it just above ground level.

Spread a thick layer of mulch around the rose bush to prevent splashing water from spreading any fungus spores that may be present. Water deeply every 4 or 5 days. You do not need to fertilize, the organic amendments you mixed into the soil will feed your rose slowly as it becomes established. A chemical fertilizer can burn new roots. As leaves begin to show in 3 to 6 weeks, spray the stems, leaves, and surrounding soil with a fungicide for black spot. If the soil mound has not completely settled at this point, CAREFULLY remove the mound with your fingers so you don’t damage any new growth.

If you are planting a grafted rose, position the bud onion right at soil level, or in colder climates position it 1 or 2 inches below the soil level. If you lose the top growth to winter die-back and the bud onion is protected under the soil, your rose has a chance of re-growing true. Be sure to read the care instructions for grafted roses so you understand the differences between grafted and own-root roses.

Floribunda Roses

Floribundas bloom in large dense clusters, with many blooms opening simultaneously. The blooms are considered to be “less perfect” than a hybrid tea, and are not always scented, but do produce more blooms than a hybrid tea. They are generally less fussy and healthier than a tea rose. There are also, as noted above, floribunda shrub roses, which are generally just the hardier, bushier floribundas.

Floribunda roses should be planted quite strictly to the instructions mentioned on the previous page. There are northern gardeners who swear that floribundas do not need nearly the care in planting and attention to summer care as the tea rose. However the range of adaptability and hardiness is quite wide in thispink climbing rose category of rose bushes. It seems, the more like a tea rose it looks, the more care it will require. Ideally, you should purchase bare root floribundas rather than potted, and place the roots into a bucket of water as soon as you get them home. There they should stay until they go into the ground. Then trim the roots to about 10 inches to encourage new tiny roots that do all the feeding to the bush. Make sure your soil is well amended with manure, compost and peat moss, I dare say you can not over amend the soil for floribundas and tea roses. Mix in a handful or two of bone meal to encourage root development. Plant in full sun 18-24” apart. Floribundas need good air circulation. Be sure and prune back the canes to 8-10”, or 3 or 4 bud bumps. Once growth has begun, feed with rose fertilizer, and feed every month until the end of July. No skipping feedings with floribundas!

Pruning should be done in early spring, before growth begins. Remember that a floribunda is grown in a bush form. Leave a strong bush structure of sturdy canes. Only spindly, weak canes, or crossed and wayward canes should be pruned harshly. Floribundas are grafted onto hardy, disease resistant rootstock. If you see a sucker shoot coming from the base of the bush, do NOT snip it. This shoot comes from the rootstock and will NOT produce a floribunda cane, so it needs to be removed completely with it’s growth bud. Remove soil all the way to the base of the shoot, deep enough to grasp the shoot at the base and pull sharply DOWNWARD. This should remove the growth bud and prevent it from regrowing.

Like hybrid tea roses, floribundas are grafted. They tend to be hardier than a tea rose, but still require winter protection. Zone 6 should be minimally protected, and zone 5 should do fine with minimal to moderate protection, decide basedroses in Iowa on how close you are to zone 4 or zone 6. In zone 4, moderate protection may be adequate, especially in a sheltered spot. North of zone 4, the Minnesota Tip would be advisable for many floribundas. Do check individual plant specifications or with your local garden center for specific

And some FAQ's -

http://www.starroses.com/faq.cfm

Hope that helps :)
 
:D Perfecto. Now much wiser. Thanks.

Rose purchase resulted from being out taking photos for you yesterday - thought it was all rather too green. Inspired by your efforts, dashed out and bought the roses. New venture for me - don't hold your breath, see album - likely to be only photo!
 

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