pointing

jackfoley · 13 Mar 2009

Hi,

I'd like to know at what point does repointing become necessary.

I have a wall where the mortar has fallen off from the gaps for about 10mm. But this is linear across the bricks. Do I need to take out anymore of it or should i fill in the gap up to the brick edge?

In other parts the mortar has not come off but it is the original 1930s mortar i think. I can score it with a key but it is not crumbling as such.

thks

noseall · 14 Mar 2009

The mortar joints between face brick or blockwork need to be compressed, tight and smooth. Whether this is achieved with a jointing iron or pointing trowel is irrelevant, it is the smooth surface that provides the weathering.

Once this smooth surface is gone then water can penetrate the mortar joints and begin the slow process of decomposition, via frost, rain or wind damage. Once the depression is 15mm plus then there is a risk to the bricks themselves.

Exposure to the weather will determine the speed of decomposition and exposure will depend upon the geography or orientation of the building, i.e. N,S,E,W, facing elevations.

Take a common sense view, or at least fix the worst areas first.

peterdarlison · 14 Mar 2009

Jack
Pointing is not necessary as modern day recessed pointing is not a problem for damp.
However a 1930s property is more than likely sand lime mix and therefore weathers easier. Also a cavity would help but again most 1930s houses are one brick thick and although it takes 6 to 8 inches for damp to travel horizontally it only has to weather a small amount to become internal damp through the wall.
Rake out the existing mortar to half inch or 15mm and re point using a 5 to 1 mix of cement and silver sand.
The type of pointing does not matter to make waterproof so you could use a trowel or bucket handle or jointer.
Or you could leave until you get internal damp then point.
Peter ( 35 years in the trade)

^woody^ · 15 Mar 2009

Pointing is essential in maintaining the walls weather resistance. Even a recessed joint needs to be ironed smooth, and even so will allow premature weathering unless appropriate bricks are used

Joints should be raked out to 20mm minimum.

Also, silver sand is not the correct sand to use - unless in the unlikely case that the wall was built with it.

Silver sand is too coarse, too clean, and apart from being impossible to actually work with, it will be too strong and too inflexible and it is not possible to get a smooth face - to provide the necessary weathering to the wall. Use building sand

peterdarlison · 15 Mar 2009

And your age and qualifications are woody??????

^woody^ · 15 Mar 2009

25 years of doing it right, and a Spirit Level in Bricklaying

I don't like to brag about my other stuff, mostly post graduation

jackfoley · 15 Mar 2009

many thanks to all.
I'll take some pics of the before and after as i'll have a go myself at doing it.

peterdarlison · 15 Mar 2009

Please do brag woody im sure we would all like to know
25 years is nothing without qualifications

And by the way building sand has too much silt in it nowadays to use as pointing mortar.

^woody^ · 15 Mar 2009

peterdarlison said:
And by the way building sand has too much silt in it nowadays to use as pointing mortar.

Would that depend on what quarry or pit it came out of, and the process undergone to meet BS EN 13139:2004 ?

Oh, and its 25 years of building sand going into the joints and not sliding off the trowel/hawk off onto my boots like silver sand does

peterdarlison · 15 Mar 2009

You still aint answered have you woody
Your beginning to sound now like my labourer
Last time , what qualifications have you or we will assume youve just picked it up me ole son

^woody^ · 15 Mar 2009

Yes, lets assume I've just picked it all up ( like you would your silver sand compo off the floor. LOL

It does not change the fact that silver sand is not the correct sand to use for repointing brickwork. I don't need a Masters degree to tell you that, do I!

noseall · 15 Mar 2009

Silver sand! Are you having a larf?

There is no fat in silver sand. It is a rinsed product wholly unsuitable for pointing. As woods has said a little too brittle also.

You would be laughed off the site if you started pointing up with that rubbish.

p.s. I come from a family of builders and have been working on private jobs since i was 15 yrs old. I am now 16 yrs old.

peterdarlison · 15 Mar 2009

Ha ha woody

Just another labourer who knows better lol

Is this why ur on here cus nobody takes u seriously on site

LABOURER FFS

Not worth talking to
Speak to me when you are qualified!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your beneath me

End of thread case solved

roughcaster · 15 Mar 2009

peterdarlison said:
.

You could leave until you get internal damp then point.
Peter ( 35 years in the trade)

Click to expand...

Who in their right mind would want to wait until they get internal damp, and "then" point.

If that advice is as good as it gets,,,, say no more.

Roughcaster.

peterdarlison · 15 Mar 2009

Honest opinions
Obviously another idiot here

Woody is a surveyor so it says,,,,,,,,OF WHAT??????????????

Even if in the building its like asking a lorry driver whats wrong with a mercedes car ignition problem!!!!!!!!!!

This is my las post because I just cannot listen to the crap im hearing from these girls

As for the person who asked the original question,,,,,,,,, listen to who you
believe but I have qualifications
C & G
C & G advanced
600 series
For mans exams
ONC in building studies
Member of several institutions
Cert of education which enables me to teach to ONC standard
In the trade for 35 years

Oh and I ran my own business for 25 and retired @ 50

Suck that you bunch of Know it all fools

GOODBYE I WILL LEAVE YOU TO FIND RESPECT IN TEXT CUS YOU SURE AS HELL OBVIOUSLY DONT GET IT @ THE JOB U DO!!!!!!!!!

Night enjoy working

diynot

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