overflow dripping - plumber been out 3 times cant fix

gillypink · 23 Mar 2009

two tanks in loft small one and larger one, the leaking one is the smaller, so far plumber has replaced 2 ball valve and 2 speed couplings and new ball valve and float in header tank, also drained the heating circuit, added sludge remover flushed and tested and supplied new 15-50 pump, tested and inhibitor added. total bill so far is over £500. we know he has done work on both tanks but drip is still apparent and no improvement. the ball cock in small tank seems low in tank and not on top of water. he does not know how to stop the ballcock from sinking and is now suggesting a new boiler. i am a pensioner can anyone out there help me.
thank you for your time.

Richard C · 23 Mar 2009

That’s an awful lot of cash & what seems like very unrelated work to stop a leaking overflow my friend

it should only take one visit & a very short amount of time indeed to fix or even replace the ball valve; & if he really has fitted a new valve, it shouldn’t leak! It sounds like a case for Matt Allwright as I fear you may be being systematically fleeced of your cash; do not pay him for any more work & try & get yourself some independent advice; approach the local council to recommend someone if necessary. There may even be a case for reporting Mr plumber to Trading Standards!

tincup · 23 Mar 2009

Hi
Water in the smaller tank should only be 4 inch deep or so. The float should be floating on this.
It sounds like water may be entering the tank from elsewhere.

HTH

seco services · 23 Mar 2009

is it all the time its is dripping or only when heating on ?
is the water in the tank warm/hot ?

could ba a faulty cylinder coil.

Agile · 23 Mar 2009

I always find it difficult to get people to understand that not all plumbers have the same capabilities.

There is no standard training and anyone can set up as a plumber without any training or experience.

In this case all that seems obvious is that this fellow is charging you a lot without being able to identify the problem.

We dont know if its just his bad workmanship with the ball valves or he has just not been able to identify the real fault like a faulty cylinder ( which could be about £400+ to replace. )

Tony

Richard C · 23 Mar 2009

Agile said:
We dont know if its just his bad workmanship with the ball valves or he has just not been able to identify the real fault like a faulty cylinder ( which could be about £400+ to replace. )

Noted

; & on reflection, I may have been a little quick & harsh with my criticism but I just can’t stand the thought of unsuspecting folks who may have little money being take for a ride; for a properly trained & experienced trade person it should be easy.

The most likely fault would seem to be a leaking cylinder primary coil but it should be pretty basic to figure that out if fitting a new ball valve doesn’t work; a lot of the other work seems at best to be clutching at straws & at worse a rip off.

gas4you · 23 Mar 2009

Richard C said:
The most likely fault would seem to be a leaking cylinder primary coil but it should be pretty basic to figure that out if fitting a new ball valve doesn’t work; a lot of the other work seems at best to be clutching at straws & at worse a rip off.

I would agree with this, especially if the larger tank is higher than the small one.

Think you may have been ripped off with spending £500 already, maybe deliberatley or maybe just by his incompetence

Perhaps he was a solicitor or accountant last week

D_Hailsham · 23 Mar 2009

Gillypink, you need to carry out a few checks; if necessary get a younger friend to help.

Turn of your boiler and let everything cool down.

Check the water level in the smaller tank - it should be about 3 inches from bottom and above the lower outlet.

If it is too high, bale out some water with a jug and bucket until the level is just above the lower outlet.

The ball valve should open and bring the level up to about 3 inches and then shut off - the valve arm will be bent to get the level correct. If it stops, your ball valve is OK but if the level continues to rise you have either a faulty ball valve or the wrong one.

If the ball valve is OK, turn the boiler back on and set it to heating only.

As the heating warms up the water level in the small tank will rise as the water expands. It should stop well below the overflow.

Now turn the hot water on and watch the level in the small tank. It should not change. If it rises to the overflow, you have a fault in your hot water cylinder.

mickyg · 23 Mar 2009

gillypink said:
total bill so far is over £500.

i'm assuming from this that you may not have paid yet? if so then I suggest you don't. You paid for someone to fix a fault. They haven't carried out the work you required and therefore cannot charge you for it. Run, jump, tell them, take to a.

and1c · 23 Mar 2009

D_Hailsham said:
Gillypink, you need to carry out a few checks; if necessary get a younger friend to help.

Turn of your boiler and let everything cool down.

Check the water level in the smaller tank - it should be about 3 inches from bottom and above the lower outlet.

If it is too high, bale out some water with a jug and bucket until the level is just above the lower outlet.

The ball valve should open and bring the level up to about 3 inches and then shut off - the valve arm will be bent to get the level correct. If it stops, your ball valve is OK but if the level continues to rise you have either a faulty ball valve or the wrong one.

If the ball valve is OK, turn the boiler back on and set it to heating only.

As the heating warms up the water level in the small tank will rise as the water expands. It should stop well below the overflow.

Now turn the hot water on and watch the level in the small tank. It should not change. If it rises to the overflow, you have a fault in your hot water cylinder.

nice info

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overflow dripping - plumber been out 3 times cant fix

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