novice to roofing,some queries

hello all, just came across this great forum and just signed up...



I’m working on a major renovation project of my own in my spare time for some time now. I have done all the demolition and rebuilding to date, and I’m drawing near the roofing stage.
I’m going for a 35degree pitch, with slates.

With my day job finishing soon, I’m hoping to tackle most of this myself, as I’ve done so far

This will be my 1st ( and maybe last!!) attempt at a roof.
I’m been studying methods for some time, and I’ve a few queries

I will be starting from clean slate all the old roof will be gone, and I'll be going from all new wallplates throughout, so no tieing-in etc..



The roof has 2 intersecting sections of unequal spans,( these 2 themselves are equal,,but less than the main roof span) 1 section intersects main roof at one end of the building, , the same on the other end, a bit like a capital H , with 1 section chopped off, or a capital ‘JAY’

At this part this there is a hip, so 3 gables, 1 hip.

I’m going to use a 6X2 common rafter, and 9X2 hip rafter, but what’s is story with the ridge thickness.
On the old building although the hip rafter was 2” thick, the ridge was not as thick, 1”-1.5” if I remember correctly.

Is there a downside to using a 2” ridge, like the hip?

Dropping the hip, what is the logic behind this, is is related to getting felt to sit better.

Thanks for reading

sorry , by droping the hip I mean beyond getting the hip drop, ie to leave a slight recess downward from the upper face of the hip.

Or is it best to just aim for the hip to sit flush with jacks

The top edge of the hip sits in-line with the common and jack rafters. If you were to drop a line or straight edge across the rafters it should not rock or be lifted at any point.

The ridge board can sit above the roof line but it is not compulsory.

The ridge board does little more other than keep the rafters in line and adds little structural value. Its thickness is only relevant as to prevent it splitting when nailed through and serve its purpose.

It is a similar thing with a hip rafter, but some hip elements to offer structural support particularly those that catch unsupported purlin ends.

Thanks for the input noseall.
I had figured as you say the hip top edge all should at least be flush.
I thought there was a practice of dropping the hip slightly lower than flush. Maybe I picked this up wrong.
The ridge above roof line, was another I couldn’t figure why I’d have to do this. A few folk I asked , said it made fitting the ridge tile easier, but if the hip rafter is flush and with the same tile to fitted, it’s should be easier for me figuring the roof out if the ridge is flush too.


I’m drawing the roof at present if I keep the same thickness ( 2”) for Hip,Valley, rafter and ridge, there should be less chance of me making a boo-boo. I hope.