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fitting a 3 port diverter valve


 
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bobby_la_mesma

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 60
Location: Berkshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:46 am Reply with quote

Dear All

I need to fit a honeywell 3 port diverter valve V4044C into my central heating system. Due to space constraints I need to fit it with the motorised valve body beneath the pipework. The Honeywell instructions say not to do this. Is this an absolute No no or are they making assumptions about the system layout?
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AndyPRK

from United Kingdom

Joined: 04 Jan 2009
Posts: 1919
Location: Herefordshire,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 188 times

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:49 am Reply with quote

I thought it was to stop possible water leaks getting into the electrics
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twgas

from United Kingdom

Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Posts: 4717
Location: Kent,
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:54 am Reply with quote

on an earlier post, about 3 months ago, you had an S-plan now you want to fit a 3 port valve. Are you confused over system design/identification?
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bobby_la_mesma

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 60
Location: Berkshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:05 am Reply with quote

I want to do away with the 2xdiverter valves and fit one 3 port diverter valve to cure an air lock problem. I have proven that if the central heating circuit is left open after switch off, then the airlock problem does not occur.

The three port diverter valve will be configured so that the central heating side of the system will remain open upon shut down. to allow water shrinking/cooling to draw from the cystern

The problem is the layout of the design. To fit this three port diverter valve I ideally need to do it inverted.
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D_Hailsham

from United Kingdom

Joined: 18 Oct 2007
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Location: Sussex,
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:24 am Reply with quote

Changing the valve is just hiding the problem, not solving it.

In your earlier post on this problem you said that you F/E tank was only 80cm above the tank although Grundfos recommend 140cm minimum. Have you done anything to rectify this?

You say that you have a manual air vent before the pump. An automatic one would be better, e.g a Flamco Flexvent.
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twgas

from United Kingdom

Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Posts: 4717
Location: Kent,
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:28 am Reply with quote

After a quick look at some of your previous posts, I really dont believe changing from 2*2 ports to a 3 port will solve your problems, the first thing I would do is move the pump to a lower position or even think about converting the system to a sealed one.
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johnfox

from United Kingdom

Joined: 22 Mar 2009
Posts: 100
Location: Middlesex,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:50 pm Reply with quote

valve upside down will attract and accumulate system crud and soon break down to ports not shutting off,etc,etc
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bobby_la_mesma

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 60
Location: Berkshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:00 pm Reply with quote

Dear All

Thanks for your guidance. Today I moved the pump further down in the system. After moving the water tank out of the way I discovered the route cause of all my problems

A one way flow valve was fitted into the return pipes on both the Central heating and Hot water circuits. This has prevented the expanded water to back fill from the cistern as it cools and shrinks. This is because as the system shuts off at its hottest, both central heating and hot water diverter valves are closed and the flow pipe from the cistern has been effectively blocked.

I have removed the one way valves and moved the pump as recommended by the DIYNOT team

Thanks
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bobby_la_mesma

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Jul 2007
Posts: 60
Location: Berkshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 12:39 pm Reply with quote

Just an update

This has solved the problem
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