Stud wall with no head plate

NatB · Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 2:53 pm Post Subject: Stud wall with no head plate

Hi guys
I've had some experience with building stud walls but always from floor to ceiling. I want to put up a stud wall that doesn't go to the ceiling, the resulting space will be used for wardrobes space.

The wall will be fixed to an existing masonry wall and the span will be fixed to masonry at one end and another stud on the other. Their won't be much load bearing, mainly need the strength at the top for the wardrobe telescopic arms to be fixed to.

How do I go about fixing the frame? Build the frame and then fix to the floor and wall? Fix sole plate first and first stud to the wall and last to plate, fix head plate and then fit studs between?

dextrous · Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 4:59 pm Post Subject:

Get the top plate in first - well fixed, straight and level. Drop plumb-lines down to the floor (and mark the line) to make sure foot plate runs to match the top - it's easier than doing the head plate after the foorplate!

Screw the two verticals at each end of the run to the wall and head plate for further rigidity, and away you go on the other verticals to distances as you see fit (Id be inclined to wedge a couple in the middle to make sure the top timber doesn't bow up or down as you fix the verticals in.

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NatB · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 12:29 pm Post Subject:

Thanks dextrous but in this case the wall doesn't have a top plate. The (starting) wall won't come up to the height of the ceiling and I won't have a top plate to fix to which is where I'm confused how to fix in that case.

mattylad · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 1:36 pm Post Subject:

Are you sure it wont have a top plate?

(is that what the top is called?)
Or it will have one except it wont be on the ceiling.

dextrous · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 1:51 pm Post Subject:

NatB wrote:

Thanks dextrous but in this case the wall doesn't have a top plate. The (starting) wall won't come up to the height of the ceiling and I won't have a top plate to fix to which is where I'm confused how to fix in that case.

That's the one I'm referring to - the horizontal ("head") timber at your desired height - fix to the walls with L brackets first. Then refer to my previous instructions - the two end wall plates screwed to the wall and to the top (head) "suspended" plate will give it added strength.

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NatB · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 2:13 pm Post Subject:

mattylad wrote:

Are you sure it wont have a top plate?

(is that what the top is called?)
Or it will have one except it wont be on the ceiling.

That's right, it will have one but not fixed to the ceiling.

NatB · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 2:18 pm Post Subject:

dextrous wrote:

NatB wrote:

Thanks dextrous but in this case the wall doesn't have a top plate. The (starting) wall won't come up to the height of the ceiling and I won't have a top plate to fix to which is where I'm confused how to fix in that case.

That's the one I'm referring to - the horizontal ("head") timber at your desired height - fix to the walls with L brackets first. Then refer to my previous instructions - the two end wall plates screwed to the wall and to the top (head) "suspended" plate will give it added strength.

Thanks. I'm still a bit confused sorry but I don't think I explained so well that the (half height) wall still needs a head plate fixing at which one end is standing 'free' - that is the wall that will be on one side of the opening that I don't have anything to fix to.

dextrous · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 2:29 pm Post Subject:

So, to clarify, one end will be fixed to a wall. The other end does not reach all the way across the room - I'm guessing a bed or a doorway is at this end?

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NatB · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 2:54 pm Post Subject:

Yup, will be just a passageway (no door). Currently it's just and end of a wardrobe which I want to replace with a stud wall that doesn't go to ceiling. It's not load bearing as such, just needs some strength across the span to fix the friction poles to.

dextrous · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 3:06 pm Post Subject:

In that case, I'd be inclined to fix one wall plate (on which to rest your head beam to measure off) - most likely for the short wall first, then use a spirit level to keep this level while marking off the length of the corner vertical piece.

Assuming you're using CLS timbers (63 by 36mm) since they're pleasant to work with, get this end wall up. screw another piece at right angles to this (looking at the cross section, it'll look like an L), and measure the length of the head plate from this. Rest the head plate on this whilst you mark the place for drilling the bracket to the solid wall, then fix head plate and away you go. Remember to keep checking horizontals and verticals with a spirit level. The reason why it's wiser not to build the frame first and put into place is that' by s o d' s law, either the walls or the floor will not be perfectly level and true, and will thwart your best efforts and perfectly made frame.

__________________
A rolling stone gathers no moss.

NatB · Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 4:01 pm Post Subject:

Thanks Dextrous, I'll see how that works.