Immersion thermo keeps tripping out!!

steved101 · 7 Jun 2009

You should be able to connect it at the local switch in the airing cupboard. If there is no switch, or the switch is very old and unsound, come back and there are a couple of alternative ways of doing it safely. Do not make a "temporary" joint in the cable, there are correct fittings available for only a few pounds depending what you have got.

What other ways are there of connecting/suppling power to an immersion heater, out of interest?...

JohnD · 7 Jun 2009

somtimes the T&E is taken into the airing cupboard, and there is no switch, or it is some distance from the heater, or a ceiling one. or maybe a round junction box which is not suitable for flex

In either case you can put a Flex Outlet close to the immersion, and run the heat res flex into that

these days a lot of FCUs and 20A DP switches have a flex outlet at the bottom (maybe plugged)

if the immersion is on a dedicated 16A radial, as it should be, then you do not need an FCU at the airing cupboard, but a DP switch (preferably with neon). If the switch is in the bathroom then depending on how far from bath or shower it is, you need a ceiling-mounted pull cord.

So I wanted to know what he had got.

mikell · 7 Jun 2009

me again!
It works at present but just as it did before I tidied up the wires it still cuts out at a certain temperature ( i guess a temperature ,it gets half the tank hot,the top half obviously) then trips,but as before with the old thermostat will only work when i pop in the little red reset button.
After the last trip i mtd out all the hot and let it fill with cold but had to reset it to get it going again,then later it hits a point and still trips?
its only a 7 inch thermo in a 11 inch element if that helps?
Still think i should change it again for another new one,or could there be more?
I will still change the cable anyway first.

Agile · 8 Jun 2009

Is this an 11" element vertically down at the top of a 36" high cylinder?

11" elements are used in side tappings and operate horizontally.

What temperature is it tripping out at ???

Tony

mikell · 8 Jun 2009

yes im afraid it is, It is a long story but the old element rotted in half ,inside the tank it took me weeks to free the element nut ,but while trying to free the nut first time tank buckled. had a 11 inch so put that in till i got, ithink a 24 inch one but found trying to free the nut again the tank is going to break so left the 11 inch in ,it still heats up to half way down though.
anyway the thermo now is heating up quite hot and quite fast , so dont think the thermo temperature gauge is working,but it heats up hot and then trips out.as it did previously.
I must say though for about three years ( thats when the 11 inch went in) its been fine ,not too hot and working as it should until this week.
I would like to put the 24 inch in but the tank would bust and id be in a worse position than i am now im afraid!
The option i get is to remove the whole system and replace it with a combi,I

only want the thermostat to work!

Agile · 8 Jun 2009

If its a primatic then the sooner you get rid of it the better.

A new cylinder is only about £160 and you need about £30 for the bits to add an F&E tank.

It sounds as if you could install them yourself.

Tony

mikell · 8 Jun 2009

cheers tony,
But im under the impression that with the primatic the central heating boiler still heats up the tank with a kind of inner coil/air bubble giving me hot water in the cylinder and /or heating, wereas another emmersion heater tank will only give me hot water and wont allow the boiler to heat it up the tank?
I prefer to keep the same type of set up electric emmersion for all general hot water and boiler for hot water( if needed) and central heating.
can i do that without changing the whole system,just chenging to the right tank?
also a f+e tank I have a loft conversion how much space do you think itd take up,not as much as a header tank?
thanks again

Agile · 8 Jun 2009

The only difference is that the primatic has a system to put water in the heating coil.

That has many disadvantages and does not permit any water treatment of the heating system.

You need a standard indirect cylinder and to fit a 27" electric immersion heater.

A new cylinder will heat up much quicker but will need to be modified to have a fully pumped primary as your now is likely to be a gravity fed system.

It will then reheat from the boiler in about 25 minutes.

Tony

mikell · 8 Jun 2009

cheers again tony ,
it is gravity fed,sorry for being dumn but what would change it from being gravity fed to needing a pump?
I will check with a local plumber how much this would cost as long as i dont have to renew the whole system and can still keep the same basic set up ,thatd be great!

I dont mind getting someone in to do this as a good job is whats needed!

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Immersion thermo keeps tripping out!!

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