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Flashing into rendered side wall abutment, Help


 
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des606

from United Kingdom

Joined: 08 Jun 2009
Posts: 28
Location: Aberdeen,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:32 am Reply with quote

Hello,

I'm about halfway through slating a shed/workshop roof which abuts another shed, and I'm looking ahead to flashing.The other shed is breeze block (large blocks with holes in the middle??) and has a rendered finish.

I've read that to install lead flashing a channel of 25mm should be cut / grinded into brickwork. So with a rendered wall do I cut in 25mm plus render say 50mm in total.

What else do i need to know / take into account ??

Cheers
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justlead1

from United Kingdom

Joined: 28 Jul 2008
Posts: 262
Location: Cornwall,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 8 times

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:37 am Reply with quote

Hi The easiest way is to lay say a 100 mm board against abutment wall and its edge on roof, the top edge gives you a line to work to. The grove you are cutting needs to be perfectly straight to accommodate the lead flashing. The depth of chase needs to be say 35 mm from the face of the render, this will provide sufficient depth for the 30 mm turn on the sheet lead flashing. You may need make the chase wider at any point where the lead is lapped. Good Luck
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des606

from United Kingdom

Joined: 08 Jun 2009
Posts: 28
Location: Aberdeen,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:17 pm Reply with quote

Cheers justlead1,

What would you recommend using to case the channel?

I've been told to use a grinder, am I right in thinking I'd have to grind two parrallel channels and chisel out the middle to make it wide enough to fit led and lead wedges?
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dextrous

from United Kingdom

Joined: 14 Mar 2009
Posts: 6321
Location: Manchester,
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:52 pm Reply with quote

Don't think you need to cut a chase - just a groove. (Code 4) Lead can be held in place every 450mm with any thin wedge you can get in there, then run silicon along the top to make it waterproof. Make the strips no longer than 1.5m and overlap by 100mm
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gaz116

from United Kingdom

Joined: 24 Sep 2007
Posts: 34
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:44 pm Reply with quote

Also, you can pick up 4" diamond blades which are about 8mm thick which are perfect for grinding out for lead Gives plenty of space for the lead and bullets. Not particuarly expensive either
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roy c

from United Kingdom

Joined: 19 Jan 2008
Posts: 1443
Location: United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:10 pm Reply with quote

I wouldn't use silicon on lead-work. Use something like leadmate or similar.Silicon reacts with the lead....
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