chimney flashing with rosemary tiled roof.

downinalbion · 21 Aug 2009

I'm about to rebuild my chimney on a hipped roof(no gables) with rosemary tiles.
The house did once have a chimney with the breast still remaining on the outside of the property,in the middle of the elevation.It was taken down to below the roof line and tiled over.
I'm confident as far as building the stack goes,although wondered if its advisable to put a damp course in,above the gutter flashing.Or does this weaken the bond? I'm not so sure about the finer details of the lead flashing.
I'm happy with doing the apron at the bottom although not sure if it should sit behind the gutter or lap into it?
I'm aware of how a stepped flashing is made and installed/pointed,but not sure if i need soakers also? I suspect i do as its a rosemary tile.Do i need to board under where the stepped flashing goes to provide a sound platform?
If this is the case do the soakers go into the same joint as the stepped flashing or the joint above?
I will submit some pics if needed.

Roofer · 21 Aug 2009

Look here for guidance, Chimney Flashings and Soakers and Stepped Flashing sections

Soakers are needed and don't go into a chase

datarebal · 21 Aug 2009

A lead tray/trays are required
Soakers yes
Step flashing yes
board not required

Look at a lead site such as calders.. pretty basic stuff really

downinalbion · 24 Aug 2009

The stack is almost done,so need to start thinking about re tiling/flashing.
The previous advice has helped loads,and i am fairly happy i can complete the tiling and flashing with a little more help.

Will i need a lead apron at the point where stack is closest to the gutter? Below the gutter the wall is(will be) rendered,so thought this would stop water getting behind render.

render under guttering

downinalbion
24 Aug 2009
1

gutter in front of stack

downinalbion
24 Aug 2009
1

Also,am i rite in thinking i will need to get some tile and a halves to butt up to stack?
On the left of the stack there is a gap of about 40mm to a full tile.Can i get away with this,only having the tile and a half alternate tiles?will the soakers do the job of bridging this?

left side of stack.

downinalbion
24 Aug 2009
1

On the right of the stack will i need to use tile and halves on each row(cut to suite)

right hand side of stack

downinalbion
24 Aug 2009
1

I haven't used a dpc in the stack,as i dindn't get to read earlier post before it was too late! Doh. I may live to regret this,but was thinking of using a clear water retardant to coat outside of stack.Plus the type of brick is very hard and less absorbent than others can be.
I spoke to the previous owner of the property,who said they had taken down the stack because they were worried of high winds and it falling down plus it was redundant.So no damp problems previously.

downinalbion · 24 Aug 2009

one other thing i forgot to ask.

when determining size of soakers it says length =gauge +lap. What does gauge refer to.

justlead1 · 25 Aug 2009

Hi. The gauge it the distance between centre of battens. The 40 mm gap apart from looking naf will not support thr code 3 sheet lead soakers, using tile and a half would be my approach. ( they cut easy enough with a diamond wheel cutter) An image showing a broader view of the stack would help re front apron. but from what i can make out a cover flashing could be cut in to brick joint and lap into the gutter if required. Good Luck

Roofer · 25 Aug 2009

A flashing at the top of the render is not strictly necessary (think rendered plinth around base of houses) but if you want belt and braces it won't do any harm; it can be just a narrow strip over the render or a wider strip taken into the gutter.

A standard size soaker is about 180 x 180 mm, bent in half to an 'L' shape, laid on tile and top of soaker bent over top of tile on each course.

The tiles need to be cut close to the side of the stack with alternate courses being tile, tile and half, tile, etc.

downinalbion · 25 Aug 2009

Here is more detail of the stack and gutter.

Untitled

downinalbion
25 Aug 2009
1

the gap between the brick work and gutter is about 25mm.

Code 3 lead was mentioned for the soakers but what about the stepped lead and apron/tray.Should this be code 3 or 4?

Roofer · 25 Aug 2009

downinalbion said:
the gap between the brick work and gutter is about 25mm.

Previous comments still apply - it's up to you.

Code 3 lead is correct for soakers but flashings must be Code 4 (or 5)

justlead1 · 25 Aug 2009

Hi You may have to cut the second tile away from the stack to get a tighter abutment at stack loosing the bong up the side will come right at back gutter level as this will come out over the tiles 6"or more. Cover flashing at the front into gutter will give a neat finish and stop water getting behind render a blowing with frost. Good Luck

downinalbion · 25 Aug 2009

justlead1 said:
Hi You may have to cut the second tile away from the stack to get a tighter abutment at stack loosing the bong up the side will come right at back gutter level as this will come out over the tiles 6"or more. Cover flashing at the front into gutter will give a neat finish and stop water getting behind render a blowing with frost. Good Luck

Hi,not entirely sure what you mean by this? Do you mean the second tile from the bottom(nearest gutter).

When you say cut away from stack do you mean cut it so there is a gap between the edge of tile and side of stack?

When you say loosing the bong do you mean bond(would have thought bongs and working at heights was not a good combination

)
How would the bond be lost?

Sorry for not getting it.Its quite difficult to convert words into an image in my head

I'm sure its all quite straight forward once i can picture it.

justlead1 · 26 Aug 2009

Hi Cutting an inch slither is to small but by taking an inch of two tiles that are next to each other will increase the piece against the stack to 3". However,Tile and a half's cut will give you a neat job. Good Luck

downinalbion · 26 Aug 2009

now i can see it in my head! Yes it would do away with with some of the tile and half,but as you say tile and a half would be neater i think.

when it comes to the lead work would you say i should have the top of the front apron the same height as the top of the stepped flashing?

also whan i come to do the gutter flashing at the top,how much longer at each end should the piece of lead before i start shaping it.
when shaping it is it best to do it against the stack? or against something softer to reduce chance of splitting it?

justlead1 · 26 Aug 2009

Hi The cover flashing at the bottom can be at the same height as step flashing or a course lower. As for the back gutter to the chimney, back gutters are not the easiest lead work to form by bossing. If you are to try bossing you will need to make the sheet lead you start with approx 6" longer than that which you want to end up with, as you will need to trim on completing the bossing. Failing that have a look at http://justlead.co.uk/back-gutter.html There is also a video on fitting back gutters on this site. Good Luck

downinalbion · 27 Aug 2009

I've just been to get the lead for the flashing.

The merchant i used only did code 3 in 6 inch and not 7 as recomended for the soakers.I spoke to a roofer who was in there at the time and he said that as i was using rosemary's i could use 6inch.If this is the case where do i want to be losing this inch?In the area under tile(width or length?) or of the water line.
My guess is not off the water line but the other side that runs the length of the tile? I'll be using tile and a halves all the way up,cut where needed.

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chimney flashing with rosemary tiled roof.

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