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mojamster

Joined: 01 Sep 2009 Posts: 3 Location: Merseyside, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:41 pm |
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I have to remove a radiator and fit a small one as a result of room alterations. Is it in order to close down all valves on the remaining rads to retain the water in them leaving only the valves open on the rad to be removed, and then open the drain-off tap to empty the rad and the flow & return pipes so that I can alter one pipe to fit the new small rad???
Also is it correct to turn the above boiler off, electrics off, and the water supply to the boiler off so that the water in the in the boiler does not keep a supply going to the central heating system as I drain down??
All advice will be most appreciated,
mojamster |
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Rob

Joined: 14 Aug 2006 Posts: 3611 Location: London, United Kingdom Thanked: 187 times
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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:49 pm |
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Boiler needs to be manually filled so no need to turn any water off to it. Advisable to turn electrics off as you dont want it firing with no water in it.
Best to drain down the whole system if you need to alter pipework. Doesn't take long to re-fill |
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mojamster

Joined: 01 Sep 2009 Posts: 3 Location: Merseyside, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:18 pm |
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Hi rob884,
Thanks for the advice, I will drain down fully as you recommend.
I guess my thinking about leaving the radiators filled was to retain any additive that may be present in the existing water.
I suppose adding inhibiters later should not prove to be difficult.
Regards,
mojamster |
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Agile

Joined: 26 Jun 2004 Posts: 46024 Location: London, United Kingdom Thanked: 2525 times
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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:23 pm |
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If you are only removing one rad just turn that one off and remove the rad after draining it from the union.
If those valves dont leak then you can continue to use the boiler for DHW and CH if you wish.
When you are ready to modify the pipework then do as you suggested but first isolate the boiler flow and return and turn off each rad. That method will preserve any additive and even if there is none then it retain the deoxyginated water in the system.
Tony |
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WDIK

Joined: 15 Dec 2007 Posts: 4864 Location: Nottingham, United Kingdom Thanked: 55 times
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tamz

Joined: 25 Feb 2009 Posts: 1863 Location: West Lothian, United Kingdom Thanked: 269 times
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Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:10 am |
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| Quote: | | but first isolate the boiler flow and return and turn off each rad. That method will preserve any additive and even if there is none then it retain the deoxyginated water in the system. |
Good advise  |
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mojamster

Joined: 01 Sep 2009 Posts: 3 Location: Merseyside, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:09 pm |
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Hi to Agile (Tony), Wdik, and Tamz,
Many thanks for all the good advice and help.
I now have the radiator removed and will be fitting the new one tomorrow.
I hope that this next stage will go OK.
It's great to think that there are people out there who are willing to take the time to help others.
Best regards,
Jim (mojamster) |
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Maboza-Ritchy

Joined: 18 Sep 2005 Posts: 89 Location: Ayrshire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:37 am |
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Hi
I'm doing similar work as Mojamster. Can someone explain in idiot-proof language how to repressurise this boiler using the filling loop?
TIA
Steveo |
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tamz

Joined: 25 Feb 2009 Posts: 1863 Location: West Lothian, United Kingdom Thanked: 269 times
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Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:47 pm |
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1) Connect the braided hose (if not already connected)
2) Turn the black lever, or levers if there are two, 1/4 turn in line with pipe. You will hear the water running through.
3) Watch pressure gauge rise to over 3bar.
You should now hear a soothing banging noise and if you quickly run to the outside of the building you should see water coming out a pipe. You have now confirmed your PR valve is working.
Never completed my modules for the rest. Will let you know when i have  |
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