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Ideal Isar HE35 - DHW ok, no CH


 
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RayLee

from United Kingdom

Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 2
Location: Lancashire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:27 pm Reply with quote

Hi,

Another dreaded Isar HE 35 from what I've read on forums. It's just over 3 years old, using an original black PCB. Already had a replacement expansion vessel under warranty.

Currently DHW is working fine but CH isn't.

As it's now getting chilly in the evenings, I thought i'd fire up the boiler for CH. Turned the timer on, waited 10 mins and checked all rads. no joy.
I thought it was a stuck TRV like last year but i think it's ok - Removed TRV head, pin doesn't look stuck and tapped the valve body a few times with a pin hammer.

Turning the boiler on (or switching from DHW to CH), I can hear a clicking/ticking sound which makes me believe it's the diverter valve/actuator at fault. The burner does fire up though for CH for about a minute or so until it goes off. I assume overheat protection?

Switching from CH to DHW, same ticking noise and the burner doesn't fire until the ticking has stopped.

So, anything else I can rule out before getting a parts/engineer to fix?

On another subject, if I got the Ideal fixed price engineer to come and fix, would they also replace the PCB to the new orange ones when my current one isn't faulty?

Cheers all.

Ray
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ChrisR

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:04 pm Reply with quote

Quote:
makes me believe it's the diverter valve/actuator at fault

Very likely. Not too hard to change .

Re the pbc, it would depend whether it had had an "accident" or not. icon_wink.gif
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corgikiller666

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:18 pm Reply with quote

before anything else are you sure you have no dripping hot taps or leaking hw pipes?
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Agile

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:21 pm Reply with quote

You can easily prove the latter by turning off the cold feed into the boiler.

If that does not solve the problem then it does sound like a jammed/failed diverter valve.

Tony
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RayLee

from United Kingdom

Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 2
Location: Lancashire,
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:21 pm Reply with quote

no leaking/dripping taps. always displays 0 unless i'm using the HW (d) or CH (c)
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swiftyboy

from United Kingdom

Joined: 04 Mar 2010
Posts: 1
Location: Glasgow,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:56 pm Reply with quote

I too have the same problem, I have DHW no CH with the control displaying 0, I have just replaced the PCB to the newer orange on and fitted the pins in the correct order ( confirmed when switching on I get a 4 displayed for 1-2 seconds )

I dont seem to have any leaks anywhere and all the radiators have been bled, how can I checked the divertor valve to see if it has stuck or jammed

getting very cold up here now any help would be very much appreciated.

cheers
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onlyfitidealboilers

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Joined: 11 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 5:56 pm Reply with quote

just ring your local RGI mate he will sort it. icon_biggrin.gif
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Temprise

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 6:53 pm Reply with quote

RayLee wrote:
no leaking/dripping taps. always displays 0 unless i'm using the HW (d) or CH (c)


Does the boiler always show 0 in the display, even when your external timers and room stat are on and calling for heat?

If this is the case then you will have a problem with your external controls (faulty timer, room stat or wiring problem).

Regards.
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swiftyboy (5 Mar 2010)
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nogoodatfaultfinding

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Dec 2008
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Location: Yorkshire,
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 7:12 pm Reply with quote

Temprise wrote:
RayLee wrote:
no leaking/dripping taps. always displays 0 unless i'm using the HW (d) or CH (c)


Does the boiler always show 0 in the display, even when your external timers and room stat are on and calling for heat?

If this is the case then you will have a problem with your external controls (faulty timer, room stat or wiring problem).

Regards.


First thing i would check as well in this situation
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Garfeild

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 11:00 pm Reply with quote

6 month old thread
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