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Plasterboard without skim?

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russella

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:11 pm Reply with quote

Hi all,

I'm looking for some help with some plasterboard I need to put up. :S I've got a bunch of sheets of tapered-edge plasterboard that I'm going to be putting up in my kitchen using plasterboard adhesive, the walls are traditional brick construction. I'm hoping to NOT have to skim or plaster the walls, hence me using tapered edge boards.

However, I'm not sure what my best approach is to get a proper corner around the window? The only thing I can find in my local DIY stores (Wickes, B&Q, etc) is a wire or perforated metal corner, the problem with this is I'm guessing it will sit proud of the plasterboard and so require a skim? Can I forego the corner beading and just fill the corners using plaster or jointing compound or something similar, or is this guaranteed to crack?

Any advice much appreciated!

Thanks,

Russ
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Dario

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:28 pm Reply with quote

Hi the best what you can do is dry lining which means to make good joints only and some fillers easy fill and than sand. Skimming over plasterboards ( perfectly smooth surface) is the most stupid thing. And is take more time and money and the surface won't be that smooth as original plasterboard surface.
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Muzz

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 1:44 pm Reply with quote

I'm not a pro but had some tape jointing to do. I bought this tape which has two metal strips in it for external corners and used self adhesive tape elsewhere.

with a bit of reading up, patience and sanding I have joined the plasterboard and can't tell where the joins are, even on the roof to ceiling joins where there was no taper.

only way i can tell is using a straight edge set against the wall I can see the slight difference, otherwise it's too hard to tell with my eye.
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roughcaster

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:07 pm Reply with quote

Absolute tosh Muzz. I'll tell you where all the joints/nailheads etc are in any plasterboard wall or ceiling, no matter how well they've been taped, so could the rest on here with "plastering experience",,,,,,, and Dario there's no comparison between a taped surface, and a plastered surface. icon_rolleyes.gif

Roughcaster.
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roy c

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 4:54 pm Reply with quote

I'm with roughcaster on this on,if you don't believe a plasterer ask a painter..... icon_wink.gif
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PrenticeBoyofDerry

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 5:01 pm Reply with quote

If your joint taping and beading the window reveals.
Don't buy the wire mesh angle beads, buy the thin coat type.
Like this;


If your a novice flexy corner tape is not recomended, I hate it.

Use easyfill jointing compound, it may take 3 application before you can get smooth and even, sand after each application.
When fixing the beads make sure you get your internal angle square, and the beads level on the uprights and across the internal lintel. Using a spirt level.
I give the bead a bit of squeeze before fixing helps the bead nose protrude, so you can fill out better.
Also tape the internal corner joints of the reveals will prevent cracking.
Self adheshive nylon scrim/tape is good for this.
I assume you do know how to D'n'B? You have to get your boards level and the joints neat or you'll be wasting your time joint taping.
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marshman

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 7:30 pm Reply with quote

roughcaster wrote:
Absolute tosh Muzz. I'll tell you where all the joints/nailheads etc are in any plasterboard wall or ceiling, no matter how well they've been taped, so could the rest on here with "plastering experience",,,,,,, and Dario there's no comparison between a taped surface, and a plastered surface. icon_rolleyes.gif

Roughcaster.


same here.
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Richard C

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:50 pm Reply with quote

marshman wrote:
roughcaster wrote:
Absolute tosh Muzz. I'll tell you where all the joints/nailheads etc are in any plasterboard wall or ceiling, no matter how well they've been taped, so could the rest on here with "plastering experience",,,,,,, and Dario there's no comparison between a taped surface, and a plastered surface. icon_rolleyes.gif

Roughcaster.


same here.

I'll 3rd that one, absolute tosh & you donít even have to be a plasterer to spot the difference; if you cant tell the difference then either your spread was crap or it probably doesnít matter anyway but in no way can you compare the 2 finishes; get it skimmed but by someone who can actually do a proper job.

Just noticed I was 4th icon_rolleyes.gif icon_lol.gif
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alastairreid

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:36 pm Reply with quote

make that 5 icon_lol.gif
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Dario

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:52 pm Reply with quote

Richard why you recommending to skimm the plasterboards. Customer will spend more money to pay for materials and labour?
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Richard C

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:23 pm Reply with quote

Dario wrote:
Richard why you recommending to skimm the plasterboards. Customer will spend more money to pay for materials and labour?

Since you asked me; agreed it will cost more but it will at least look like a proper job, will be so much better & last much longer. It rather depends what you want to achieve really, dry lining without skim has its uses in an office block but has no place in a domestic environment; IMO itís a cheap & cheerful DIY fix up.

To say;
Dario wrote:

Skimming over plasterboards ( perfectly smooth surface) is the most stupid thing. And is take more time and money and the surface won't be that smooth as original plasterboard surface.

Is misguided; there is no way you can compare a taped & filled dry lined wall with one thatís been properly skimmed. From one of your recent posts, you intimated to the OP that you were a spread & would charge only £120/day to skim a 25m ceiling; there may be a clue in there somewhere!

Anyway I wasnít the first to comment, why have you picked on me; maybe your not who you say you are!
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Dario

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:39 pm Reply with quote

richard check that photo. In other european countries builders are doing that job Jointing
Jointing
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PrenticeBoyofDerry

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:50 am Reply with quote

Dario wrote:
richard check that photo. In other european countries builders are doing that job Jointing
Jointing

If think dry-lining and joint taping and MUZZ are getting a bad ride hear,
the job in the photo is not a particular good one.
I want knock plaster it's a fine material but i don't think it's the material that should be questioned.
It's the person doing the work, just like plaster if the dry-lining and taping is not done to good standard it looks appalling.
Unfortunately there are quite a few people out there that have taken on joint taping to earn a living. I've seen some stuff you couldn't even paper over, never mind paint and the job look right.
This is not bravado taking over, but I need to defend the people that actually do this work to a high standard and some can and these deserve the some credit especially in place where the cowboys ride the plains.
I personally have just done some work in a house where, I've used both square edge boards and tapered edge boards on the ceilings, then joint taped them.
I'll challenge anyone who cares to view this job,
to spot where screws are where joints are a which ceiling are tapered and which are square, there is also two plastered ceiling and the can compare them too.
It's just some folk don't care about doing the job right or simply don't have the skill and patience.
Not the material.
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trowelmonkey1

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:44 am Reply with quote

well if you're determined to do a DIY on this then i think taping and jointing is your only option, you will make a mess of skimming.

Muzz has the right external angle tape, not easy to use and this is where you'll come unstuck if anyhere, never tried thincoat bead for this but suppose it could work.

when all is said and done i agree with the boys though, can't beat skimmed board, more durable and no sanding which is a hideous job.

ever been into a new build that was taped and jointed a few years down the line, look proper tired and in need of skimming in my experience.
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roughcaster (27 Oct 2009)
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Richard C

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:30 am Reply with quote

Dario wrote:
richard check that photo. In other european countries builders are doing that job Jointing
Jointing

What has ďwhatís done in other European countriesĒ got to do with it icon_question.gif In many cases, building construction methods & regulations will be of a lower standard compared to those used in the UK.

Other than a need for cheap, quick & easy partitioning I can see no reason for using tape & fill other than a lack of the necessary skill to apply a plaster skim. All that filling, sanding & then sealing before you can do anything with it &, as TM says, it will never last as long; OK for partitioning large open plan office buildings but not a proper job for residential IMO.

PrenticeBoyofDerry wrote:

It's the person doing the work, just like plaster if the dry-lining and taping is not done to good standard it looks appalling.
Unfortunately there are quite a few people out there that have taken on joint taping to earn a living. I've seen some stuff you couldn't even paper over, never mind paint and the job look right.
This is not bravado taking over, but I need to defend the people that actually do this work to a high standard and some can and these deserve the some credit especially in place where the cowboys ride the plains.
I personally have just done some work in a house where, I've used both square edge boards and tapered edge boards on the ceilings, then joint taped them.
I'll challenge anyone who cares to view this job,
to spot where screws are where joints are a which ceiling are tapered and which are square, there is also two plastered ceiling and the can compare them too.

It's just some folk don't care about doing the job right or simply don't have the skill and patience. Not the material.


Point taken & it applies to any trade icon_wink.gif . Itís Dario's comment about plaster skimming being ďthe most stupid thingĒ which is rather galling; a plaster skim applied by someone with the skill to do it will always give a superior & more hard wearing finish than tape & fill. You just need to look at it after a few years of family use & particularly if someone has tried to steam wall paper off it. Nothing you can do then other than skim it & if itís too badly damaged, it may even have to be replaced & I guarantee that those who experience the problem will want it skimmed 2nd time around.

Given the choice, I would always prefer a float & set base with finish skim; not an option with internal studs but I then I would never buy a property constructed with stud walls anyway; I suppose that makes me a British Dinosaur. icon_lol.gif
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roughcaster (27 Oct 2009)
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