Vaillant Ecotec plus 824 possible expansion tank problem or?

mrsme · 5 Nov 2009

Not sure if this is the problem but someone told me it might be but its a bit unclear

I have the Vaillant ecotec plus 824 boiler fitted almost 4 years ago. There is no sign of any leaks anywhere unless I can't see them although there have been soon after installation but they were put right.

It has been losing pressure for a long time even from being fitted I had to top it up every 2 or 3 weeks but the time between top ups has got shorter and shorter. In the summer when heating is off I do not have to top it up. It is now down to being topped up once or twice a day and then its not enough for it to start the heating by itself in the morning. In the morning its either showing f22 or f75. f22 after top up starts the heating instantly if its set at the time but f75 after switching off at plug restarts boiler and water but not heating, I have to turn the wireless control to off then to auto again

There are 3 sections to the bar (no numbers) light grey area lowest, mid grey and red (highest) I know that it has to be topped up to halfway into the mid grey area but if I do this it goes into the red area and flashes bar in the screen after 6 minutes so I have to turn the heating off and keep testing it to see when its safe to use the heating again. Because of this I can only top it up to just at the beginning of the mid grey area so it wont rise to the red area when heating is on but this soon drops.

I havent checked outside do I need to?

Any ideas what this most likely is, if it can be done diy easily? or how much approx?

kevplumb · 5 Nov 2009

first check the prv isn't leaking

second the ex vessel may need recharging see FAQ 3rd post

mickyg · 5 Nov 2009

the gauge is a filling guide and is not accurate. Press the "-" button, that will tell you the exact pressure. Should be topped to between 1 and 1.5

mrsme · 5 Nov 2009

Thankyou,

I'm going to get a relative to check this bit for me as I wont be able to get up there myself to check the valve. Will check the true pressure with that button when I find the button and go by that if it needs recharging.

What if it is leaking water I guess that means I'll need a new expansion tank? about how much should this cost me to be replaced by a plumber or heating engineer?

mrsme · 5 Nov 2009

I just read the

2) REPRESSURISING THE PRESSURE VESSEL again and by draining the system enough to drop the pressure to zero and then an extra 10 litres on top does this mean taking up the floorboards? or is it done on the boiler if so how for each of the ways?

Really hoping it wont be take up floorboards as new wooden floors

kevplumb · 5 Nov 2009

What if it is leaking water I guess that means I'll need a new expansion tank?

if it is you will need to change the prv first

the ex vessel might just need recharging

mrsme · 5 Nov 2009

Just in case it got missed as last 2 posts were sent at similar time.. Can anyone please confirm my query in my post 3 above as I want to have all the necessary info for when my relative comes, Thankyou

kevplumb · 5 Nov 2009

if your gonna change the prv drain from that

if you don't, you need to look for a drain point on the system

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mrsme · 5 Nov 2009

Oh heck that means taking up the floor again as thats the only place they have ever done it from before but since then its a long story but its been glued down

The gorge is at total lowest in the morning when it shows f22 or f75 so maybe it can be done then wen the system is quite empty anyway?

How is it possible to drain from where an old pvr valve is changed wouldnt it still leave some in the vessel or will it just be obvious when its being done?

mrsme · 6 Nov 2009

mickyg said:
the gauge is a filling guide and is not accurate. Press the "-" button, that will tell you the exact pressure. Should be topped to between 1 and 1.5

I have looked on the front of the boiler and there is no button like that at all would it be inside when the casing is off?

mrsme · 6 Nov 2009

My relative came today to see if he could help with this and we have not succeded in putting the problem right

The pvr has been tested and no water is coming out, just air so thats good news

but we just dont know how or where to drain the system from on the boiler so couldnt do that. He found the "-" button and as I had not topped it up this morning and it was still showing f75 it was reading at 0.3 bar so he pumped up the vessel to 1.5 bar reading. This was ok unyil the heating went on and it shot right up to 2.5 bar or something cant rem exactly so he released some air from the vessel and we tested it in stages dropping it to 1.0 bar

It is now reading at 1.0 bar with heating off and 2.0 bar with heating on, I have not put any water in the system though today to get it working so not sure whjat to do from here if anyone can advise?

Do you think its worth having vaillant service warranty? How much does it usually cost the boiler is 4 years old in December. How would they take the fact that there is already a problem that needs sorting out?

mickyg · 6 Nov 2009

it sounds like your not gonna sort this with diy, but its a simple job for a heating engineer. Vaillant won't give you service cover with an existing fault unless you pay for the breakdown as well. Probably about £25 for first year. Bit steep for such a simple fault if you ask me.

mrsme · 6 Nov 2009

I live in the Nottingham area does anyone know the best place to call to sort this out or should I just have vaillant out? I wish I had the service warranty they offered me a few months ago

How much do you think they will charge me for this particular fault and callout?

mickyg · 6 Nov 2009

fixed price callout £250
including 1yr cover aprx£26 a month. Might be someone on here in your local area.

mrsme · 6 Nov 2009

Wow that is a lot

now I know why I did not have the warranty

£250 for this seems a lot of money do you think its ok to use a different engineer other than vaillant?

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Vaillant Ecotec plus 824 possible expansion tank problem or?

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