Helllllllp needed with relaying pan tiles

duffsparky · 7 Nov 2009

Hi All,

I've just relaid some Marley Malvern(?) pan tiles on my house roof after replacing some damaged underlay felt. The original area of work was 7 to 8 rows back from the gutter line and 13 or 14 tiles wide.

When I refitted the tiles I ended with the tile overlap not being sufficient on all but the top row. Guessing I had allowed the tile battens to sag, when I renailed them, I been back up on the roof to redo the battens and relay the gutter row of tiles.

I've redone the first batten, which had sagged down by about an inch, and relaid its tiles. However, I still have the same problem even with any slack between adjoining tiles taken out. At present the last overlap just reaches its adjacent tile but is short by about an inch.

Anyone got any idea what could be wrong and how to remedy it?

The only thing I can think of, is the some of the tiles I've relaid must be slightly narrower, but if this were the case then I'd expect other rows to have the oposite problem ie too long, but they don't.

Thanks in anticipation.

datarebal · 7 Nov 2009

By overlap am i right in thinking you mean side lap? if so even interlocking tiles have a small amount of sideways movement.; I would get your batten correct, then run a test course through keeping the tiles pulled to see if it works out. then relay the tiles keeping them pulled rather than pushed ..

try again ..

duffsparky · 7 Nov 2009

datarebal thanks for the reply.

Yes, by overlap I mean side lap.

So far I've only re-refixed the first/gutter course batten, which is now nice and straight, and with the tiles laid pulled, as you suggested, the side lap is still too short. I've also brushed the moss of the side lap area of the tiles.

To make sure I got the batten re-refitted correctly, I've removed an area of tiles wider than the original work area and fixed my string line from rafters where the battens had not been disturbed. I also used a 2 metre straight edge to ensure any twisting etc of the batten was accounted for.

Perhaps I could try to shunt/pull the undisturbed tiles along to move any slack betweem them toward the area I'm having problems with; I'll have to lift them slightly to remove the moss. However if I do that for the first/gutter course and I still get no joy, what then?

What do you reckon?

Regards.

datarebal · 8 Nov 2009

If they were ok before you took them off then there is no real reason they wont fit now. very strange...
there may be slight variation in tile widths but not enough to loose an inch over 14 tiles.

Have you added any replacement tiles at this time? if so are they the correct make?

any chance you could send a picture so I can try and see whats going on?.

Alastairreid · 8 Nov 2009

View media item 16646
spread the tiles instead of butting them tight.

duffsparky · 8 Nov 2009

From the LHS of the roof in the photo, I've pushed the 2nd course of tiles up and pulled all but the first tile, in the gutter course, from left to right towards the tower scaffold; and from the RHS of the roof I've pulled all but the first 6 tiles, in the same course, from right to left.

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duffsparky
8 Nov 2009
1

Looking at the gutter course, through the RHS of the tower, the inadequate side lap can be seen at the third tile hip/bump(?) from the RHS of the tower upright.

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duffsparky
8 Nov 2009
1

The number of pulled tiles from the left is 18 and from the right is 10, overall there are 34.5 tiles in each course.

The original reason for repairing the roof, was to fix a hole left after removing the vent stack - in hindsight perhaps I should have left the b***** thing in and capped it!!!! but then again, I wouldn't have found the torn underlay.

Alastairreid · 8 Nov 2009

work from right to left! it will be easier.

keep your eave course in line with the undisturbed tiles above and fill the roof back up in panels from r/l. copy the spacing in the water channels in the undisturbed tiles directly above the courses you are filling in.

dont strip out any more tiles

datarebal · 8 Nov 2009

They are not pulled as much as they were.. try again...

duffsparky · 8 Nov 2009

alastairreid said:
work from right to left! it will be easier.

keep your eave course in line with the undisturbed tiles above and fill the roof back up in panels from r/l. copy the spacing in the water channels in the undisturbed tiles directly above the courses you are filling in.

dont strip out any more tiles

Hi Alistair,
I did as you suggest on my first attempt and ended up with about 6 or 7 courses with insufficient side lap and I have been working right to left, again as you suggest.

Perhaps the whole roof is sagging down cos of my fat ar*e gut having sat on it?

datarebal said:
They are not pulled as much as they were.. try again...

I think if I pull them apart anymore they will start riding up over the interlocking ridges, but I'll give it a go - that is when it stops raining

Cheers Guys.

duffsparky · 8 Nov 2009

Just a thought,

What's the chances of the tiles originally being laid slightly over pulled and now, due to me having removed a large area, what's left has settled in to a more normal position, thus resulting in the gap I'm now getting?

If the tiles were originally laid in much hotter weather could this now add to the problem?

Alastairreid · 8 Nov 2009

you're clutching at straws

they will go back in once you get the 1st course right!

duffsparky · 15 Nov 2009

Hi Gents,

Thanks for the advice.

I managed to get the tiles back in place, although I did cheat a bit; gutter man came round and did the first row for me

Thanks again.

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Helllllllp needed with relaying pan tiles

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