DT10RF optimiser dropping connection

Hi, I have a WB Greenstar 37cdi combi boiler with the DT10Rf optimising programmer.

The programmer is randomly dropping the rf connection with the boiler. Can happed several times a day or once every few days. Have also used the learn facility several times to re-connect the rf link. There is 1 stud wall and 1 brick wall between the programmer and the boiler (approx 6m). Changed batteries etc, still the same.

The programmer makes the rf link with the boiler mounted receiver without problem and operates for long periods without dropping the connection.

Have ruled out our wireless router and cordless phone, still does it when they are turned off. No other wireless devices in the house. Neighbours either side have other kinds of boiler. I have moved the programmer twice as far away from the boiler as it is normally positioned within the house and it still works for periods then drops the connection.

Worcester Bosch have replaced the programmer and receiver and it is just the same. If the battery is taken out of the programmer and then replaced it re-makes the rf connection straight away but then drops it later.

Anyone got any ideas to resolve this without reverting to a wired connection?

Cheers

Hi itsgotmebeat, I also have a Greenstar, the 35CDi combi, with a DT10RF Digistat (not the Optimiser version) programmer, installed in 2006.

Boiler is fine but I have exactly the same issue as you with the DT10RF. It started dropping the RF link regularly about a year after installation. I replaced the batteries with no improvement.

Under warranty Worcester Bosch replaced the DT10RF (square shape) with a new model DT10RF (curved shape), the engineer said it had a stronger RF signal than the square one.

Some months later exactly the same loss of RF connection. I replaced the batteries with no improvement.

There are 2 breeze block inside walls separating the DT10RF with the boiler. Separation distance is 3 meters.

I moved the DT10RF, on a temporary basis, from the hallway to a position next to the boiler, this appeared to stop the loss of RF connection.

It's now back in the hall and dropping out again. I replaced the batteries this morning, the old ones measured a total of 2.8 volts, the new ones 3.1 volts. This seems to have helped but I have no confidence in the design.

It easily re-establishes the RF link after changing the batteries, also pressing the up / down temperature buttons seems to kick it into life, but I don't want to be doing that at 6am on a frosty morning.

I have a feeling that the two 1.5 volt alkaline cells are struggling to maintain the RF signal field, even though it never shows low battery symbol.

I wish now that, during installation, I had asked for a wired programmer, and I may still go down that route.

I have only just read your 7 Nov message, have you got anywhere with your DT10RF issue?

I've had one of these for 3 years and had the same problems with losing the wireless link from 6 months into the installation. Tried putting the optimiser in a number of different rooms, which helps initially but only lasts a few days. My trick is to remove the batteries for 30 seconds and then replace them. This seems to kick-start the system. The last week with very low temperatures has been a nightmare. I've found this forum from Google and until now thought I was the only one with the problem. So I've contacted the installer today to see if he has any experience / recommendations and will pass on if I get anything.

Cheers all.

Hi Counsellor2000, I read and recognised your findings with great interest, there is certainly something strange, and more commmon than perhaps is realised with these DT10RF (Drayton) devices.

Like you I found mine to be more succeptible to loosing the RF link in cold wheather, i.e. when the room stat is communicating more frequently with the receiver mounted in the boiler.

Two weeks ago I got really fed up having to constantly re-set my DT10RF, so I re-instated my 10 year old digital wired Honeywell room stat (CM67 non optimiser version), by removing the link on the boiler control board and replacing the boiler receiver panel with a blanking plate. Since then good boiler cycling and no problems - bliss.

I think the CM67 features are easier to programme and better, such as party mode, day off feature and ability to programme in more detail than the DT10RF.

Regards

Over the past few days our heating has been acting up, turning itself off even though the digistat optimiser is showing the flame. We have a Worcester Bosch R28 HE combi condensing boiler and an old digistat optimiser (the system is 5 years old) so not the D10RF one (can't find any numbers on it). We wondered whether this might be the same problem as you are all discussing. We've changed the batteries and re-taught the boiler and optimiser to link but it has failed again since then. My husband was watching the boiler yesterday (it's in our loft) and the temp went up to 76 and then dropped back like a stone. He's not sure if that might be a separate fault.
I have phoned various local accredited WB people but they all tell me different things, and WB (when you can get through!) said it was the condensate being frozen, which it wasn't.
I'd appreciate any advice.
Lynne

I had this problem - after 2 years the signal dropped and I couldn't get the receiver to pick the signal up again.

I spoke to Worcester who suggested new batteries, which I did to no avail. I was just on the point of buying a replacement programmer when I decided to have a last go.

You'll notice if you look at the thermostat that there are 2 battery trays, and that the notes say you should push the right tray in before the left. If you take the right tray out but leave the left tray in the display stays on. I THINK the left tray controls the display, timer etc and the right tray controls the radio signal. Whilst my thermostat looked fine the right tray wasn't connecting so there was no signal.

What I did was swap the trays: take them both out and let the screen go blank, then put them back in only swapping them.

Note: I had to force mine a bit - not sure if this was me or what but although they're roughly the same size the right tray didn't want to go in the left slot, and I actually broke a couple of supports on the right of the inside of the tray which were in the way.

If when you put the right tray in the left slot the display doesn't go on then there's a problem with the tray. I gave the contacts on the tray a bit of a polish with wire wool and used a screwdriver to make the contact sit out a bit so it is tight to the batteries. After this the right tray worked in the left slot, so that showed it was fine. After this I went through the 'learn' process again as described in the noted and everything worked straight away!

Hope this helps.

Interesting, but two years too late!

These Drayton based controllers arent very reliable; the dodgy battery springs have been common knowledge in the trade for the last decade.

If this was their only mode of failure it would be nice; unfortunately it isn't.

You really cant beat a hard wired room-stat can you!

Had EXACTLY the same problems as many of you. After about 3 years, RF dropped signal; restored quickly, but fault re-occurred on a number of occasions and more frequently. Impossible to check signal etc as panel on boiler refused to go into menus (as specified in manual). Also went down the "other-wireless-stuff-in-the-house" route without success. Eventually switched off the wireless thermostat and manually set the boiler over Christmas (don't you love the 6am wake to boost the temperature?). Have now had new hard-wired thermostat installed (cost over £200!!!). Still don't know if unit was faulty as our engineer walked off with the kit!!!! Good riddance to wireless ....

I've been having this exact problem ever since I got the damned wireless thermostat. It's never been 100% reliable.

I'm now replacing it with a wired stat - question is - how do I wire the new stat?

manwithspanner - mentioned that he removed the front plug-in plate. Do you need to do that to use an external stat? Or can that stay in place? If you remove it, what do you replace it with? Anything? Plus, does that not disable the water pre-heating function that the boiler has?

Min is a 40Cdi from around 2005-06