Reclaimed parquet flooring

DTAYLOR2005 · 1 Feb 2005

I have aquired an amount of reclaimed parquet flooring which I would like to re-use. It is the 5 fingered block type and the recovery process has split the blocks down to individual fingers (about 1/2" by 5")
Assuming I observe the normal preparations, (even floor, damp proof, correct adhesive) is it practical to consider relaying the individual fingers into the original horizontal/vertical alternate block pattern or would the whole thing be too fiddly to hope of getting a reasonable finish after sanding etc?
I have the patience and the desire to attempt complicated DIY projects such as this but if someone who knows better or has attempted it previously and failed tells me to forget it I am willing to listen to prevent getting ambition and ability mixed up.
Thanks for listening.

chappers · 1 Feb 2005

It should be possible if you have the patience, but what a job thats about 800 individual bits per square meter I would start with two battens fixed to the floorat right angles and work from these, you will need a dead level floor and I would spread the adhesive fairly thinly so as to get an even finish.
Wouldn't fancy tackling this myself but good luck

WoodYouLike · 2 Feb 2005

Hi

Are the recycled mosaic blocks clean (i.e old adhesive or bitumen completely removed?)
If so, start with appr. 1 sq m in desired pattern and leave for few hours for the blocks to bond properly with the adhesive (what kind/brand of adhesive are you using?).
Then further it's a very straight forward job and can be done fairly quickly. Worst problem I think will be keeping up with the pattern, you might see 'double' after a while.

Are the blocks pre-finished or unfinished?

DTAYLOR2005 · 2 Feb 2005

The blocks are not yet clean, that is my first job.
I am literally at the "should I start this project stage" as the blocks did not cost me anything. No-one has suggested I would be mad to attempt the job so I will go at it one step at a time.
I figure parquet adhesive will be readily purchasable come the time, unless you have any recommendations? (I always listen to advice)
The blocks have been lifted from an old telephone exchange with the laquer/sealant/polish on the top suface so I guess that makes them finished?

WoodYouLike · 3 Feb 2005

Yes, that makes them pre-finished. If you go ahead with this project you can't fill any gaps with wood-filler without sanding the finish layer of first.
Meaning: tight fitting of every single block or not caring about gaps

Is the residue of the old adhesive black? = Bitumen, terrible stuff to get rid of.

DTAYLOR2005 · 3 Feb 2005

Yes, residue is bitumen but blocks appear to have a foil backing between block and bitumen that comes off quite easily and brings bitumen with it.
Re the gaps I would intend to give the floor a serious sanding when laid as I'm sure a jigsaw puzzle of this nature will have a 'few' uneven bits.

WoodYouLike · 4 Feb 2005

Sounds good, then. When you have installed your jigsaw and start sanding, you can collect the sand-dust of the second sanding (grit 80) and use that with wood-filler to 'plaster' the gaps you might have.
3rd sanding (grit 100 or 120) will get excess of filler of and will leave you with a very smooth surface to apply finish on.
Just make sure you use/hire professional sanding-equipment (with never-ending sanding belt).

DTAYLOR2005 · 4 Feb 2005

Thanks for the advice, I'm a complete novice on sanding but what you say makes sense, which is why this site is so good.
For the benefit of my understanding, what's the background detail of grit 80/100/120? I assume it's an indication of the abrasiveness of the material?

masona · 4 Feb 2005

DTAYLOR2005 said:
Yes, residue is bitumen but blocks appear to have a foil backing between block and bitumen that comes off quite easily and brings bitumen with it.

Kerosene Odourless is the best treatment of getting rid of bitumen. Soak it overnight on a flat tray in about 1/4" of Kerosene Odourless and the bitumen will turn into liquid. It will completely removed all bitumen, good stuff!

WoodYouLike · 5 Feb 2005

DTAYLOR2005 said:
For the benefit of my understanding, what's the background detail of grit 80/100/120? I assume it's an indication of the abrasiveness of the material?

Yep, sorry, that's the job-jargon talking. If you plan to lacquer or varnish the parquet flooring sand it a 4th time with grit 150, that closes the pores of the wood better for a lacquer finish. DON't use grit 150 for oil finish, the oil will not penetrate the wood sufficient.

In the mean time, have fun with this project. I'm sure you will end up with a most wonderful and valuable floor.

DTAYLOR2005 · 5 Feb 2005

Woodyoulike, Masona, thanks for the invaluable advice. May I indulge your goodselves with another query?
a. Will the kerosine have any detrimental effects on the parquet wood blocks?
b. A friend has suggested that the blocks may be able to be 'dipped' pretty much in the way old doors can be to remove all paint/varnish adhesive etc.
Any idea if this is possible with floor blocks and if so where does one go to get such a service. (If it makes such an onerous task easier I am willing to spend a few bob.

swelec · 5 Feb 2005

Toxicology

May be harmful or act as an irritant. May act as a carcinogen for prolonged occupational exposure.

Personal protection

Safety glasses, good ventilation.

Above copied from MSDS for Kerosene

For Occasional uses, no problems if safety precautions taken

Not really suitable for regular use though - were I work we have bannd it from site recently, but we were using it day in day out

Replaced it with citric acid based cleaner

masona · 6 Feb 2005

masona said:
Kerosene Odourless is the best treatment of getting rid of bitumen. Soak it overnight on a flat tray in about 1/4" of Kerosene Odourless and the bitumen will turn into liquid. It will completely removed all bitumen, good stuff!

As from swelec advice the above should be done outside.

To be honest you may not need to remove the bitumen if it's clean round the edge for butting the blocks together.

Is the bitumen brittle or loose?

WoodYouLike · 6 Feb 2005

DTAYLOR2005 said:
I have aquired an amount of reclaimed parquet flooring which I would like to re-use. It is the 5 fingered block type and the recovery process has split the blocks down to individual fingers (about 1/2" by 5")

Hi again DTaylor.
Coming back to your first post: how thick are the blocks? Just asking cause if you are short of some 'fingers' we have some leftovers from a Herringbone job were we used Oak mosaic blocks (unfinished) as subfloor. Individual fingers are 2cm by 16cm and 8mm tick (7 by 7 fingers in pattern). We have appr 4 sq m left

DTAYLOR2005 · 7 Feb 2005

Masona,
Thanks, to be honest most of the bitumen is coming off with the foil, any residual can be quite easily scraped off with a blade. I'm pretty sure I have enough to dispose of any that are too messy.

Woodyoulike,
My 'fingers' are 115x23mm and 10mm thick they are a 5x5 configuration so I don't think they would match yours. I think I have plenty anyway. Thanks all the same.
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Reclaimed parquet flooring

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