Estimate for wiring new loft extension..

Ejaz · 10 Dec 2009

Hi all, I am planning a loft extension to my bungalow which will provide two additional bedrooms and a bathroom. I have been quoted £3300 for the following work/supplies;

New ring main in loft
New external lighting circuit
Fitting spotlights in bathroom/one bedroom
ceiling roses in bedroom 2 and hallway
shaver light in bathrrom
6 sockets in each bedroom
New CU to replace existing wylex type
Supply all cables and CU

I am supplying all the switches/sockets/fittings. Does the quote seem reasonable or should i get another opinion?

Thanks!!

bongos · 10 Dec 2009

Ejaz said:
I am supplying all the switches/sockets/fittings. Does the quote seem reasonable or should i get another opinion?

Sounds a bit high to me but London prices are higher than oop north and as many say if you can't see it you can't quote it!

I would get three quotes from different sparks. Then you should be getting a rough idea of what the going rate is. Of course the cheapest is not always the best - see which one you get the feel from also.

Make sure that there is a break down of materials on the quote so you know exactly what each spark is including.

Also, make sure they are able to self certify the electrical work. They should be registered here.

Taylortwocities · 10 Dec 2009

Rule is that you can't quote it if you can't see it.

There's so many variables.

Get some maore quotes.

PS. I'd put in linked smoke alarms too. Not absolutely needed as new building wont be 3 storeys but i'd put them in.

nozspark · 11 Dec 2009

As you are creating another floor you will need interlinked smoke/heat alarms...

You will also need an extractor fan in the bathroom...

and 1 in 4 of your new lighting will have to be energy efficient (flourescent or led)

chapeau · 11 Dec 2009

Morning ejaz.

Rough rule of thumb when working out if the spark is a chancer.

£300 for the consumer unit.
£50 for each additional fitting i.e. socket/switch/light.

That is all labour + parts. If you supply the parts then subtract that from the £50. If you want better than average fittings then add that to the £50.

Seems obvious to me. If you want to ask him to break down his quote then that is entirely reasonable, you are the customer and have the cash, it will also give you an insight into his attitude on how he replies.

I wouldn't ever hire an electrician unless he was recommended. And plenty will do it for less than the numbers given above.

Cheers.

Ejaz · 11 Dec 2009

wow, thanks for all the great replies. Yes that did include fitting extractor fan in upstairs bathroom. the ceiling roses will be using low energy bulbs. i was considering LED downlighters are they any good? i prefer the downlighter effect to pendants..
I will definately be gettiing more quotes, also recommendations from the builders who will be doing the structural work.
do you think it's worth asking for a revised quote if i do all the chasing/fitting and leave the CU and connections to the sparky?

ban-all-sheds · 11 Dec 2009

Ejaz said:
i was considering LED downlighters are they any good?

If you mean the little 2" diameter ones then no - they are utterly useless at lighting a room.

i prefer the downlighter effect to pendants..

Don't worry - you are not the only person who for some bizarre reason prefers lighting which is not designed to do the job they are using it for, and therefore doesn't do it at all well.

do you think it's worth asking for a revised quote if i do all the chasing/fitting and leave the CU and connections to the sparky?

That's up to the sparky - she will have to sign a certificate to say that she did all of the work, i.e. the design and the construction and the testing. There's no reason why she has to literally do every bit herself, otherwise she'd never be able to have an apprentice, but anything you do can only be under her direct supervision and guidance.

Taylortwocities · 11 Dec 2009

Ejaz said:
. the ceiling roses will be using low energy bulbs.

That does not comply with Building Regs and your Building Control will reject them if he/she/it is a stickler (and most are).

BR Part L says the lamps must be specific low energy fittings (ie with the control gear in the fitting) not standrd pendants etc fitted with low energy lamps.

chapeau · 11 Dec 2009

Ejaz said:
I will definately be gettiing more quotes, also recommendations from the builders who will be doing the structural work.
do you think it's worth asking for a revised quote if i do all the chasing/fitting and leave the CU and connections to the sparky?

If you have a builder and don't know a reliable electrician yourself then I'd ask the builder to arrange it all. He will know the going rate and won't pay over. He might obviously mark it up a bit for you but I doubt you will end up paying £3300.

I'm putting an extension on a house now and the builder came in at such a good price that it's not worth my bother to get my 'own' reliable sparky in. Not even worth doing it myself in fact. Will still be checking up on him of course when he isn't around, wouldn't go that far

In general if you don't know an electrician get the builder to include it, far more sensible in general.

Ejaz · 11 Dec 2009

oh no! are they those four-pin jobbies that are stupdily expensive? presumably I could get away with just one in the hallway since it will satisfy the 1 of 4 requirement?

Taylortwocities · 11 Dec 2009

If you extend your house and add 4 pendants then one of these must be low energy fittings that comply with Building Regs Part L.

If you install 8 downlights (eg those in your bathroom) then you'll need to install two low energy fittings to compensate. (See note* below).
Usually its best to agree with the BCO what he will accept OR make the architect who did your plans make the decision - then its not your fault.

These rules only apply to NEW ROOMS, not refurb of existing spaces.

Read it here http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADL2B_2006.pdf

Note* You can see how everyone hates downlights. If you build four rooms with a pendant in each then you only need to find a place for one low-energy specific fitting.
If you install 5 cr@p downlights in each room then you'll need to find 5 low-energy specific downlight locations.

Ejaz · 11 Dec 2009

thanks for the info, i have will have to brush up on the regs soon! why does everyone hate downlights/spotlights? I have them in both my kitchen and bathroom and i much prefer them to pendants. I agree they're not great for living rooms but bedrooms i think they look cool!

ban-all-sheds · 11 Dec 2009

Taylortwocities said:
That does not comply with Building Regs

It does, actually.

and your Building Control will reject them if he/she/it is a stickler (and most are).

But sadly this is true, and if you need them to provide a completion certificate for the loft conversion then going toe-to-toe with the BCO demanding that he show you where the law requires what he is asking for is probably not feasible.

BR Part L says the lamps must be specific low energy fittings (ie with the control gear in the fitting) not standrd pendants etc fitted with low energy lamps.

No - Part L of the Building Regulations says this:

PART L CONSERVATION OF FUEL AND
POWER
L1 Reasonable provision shall be made for the
conservation of fuel and power in buildings
(a) limiting heat gains and losses─
(i) through thermal elements and
other parts of the building fabric;
and
(ii) from pipes, ducts and vessels used
for space heating, space cooling
and hot water services;
(b) providing and commissioning energy
efficient fixed building services with
effective controls; and
(c) providing to the owner sufficient
information about the building, the
fixed building services and their
maintenance requirements so that the
building can be operated in such a
manner as to use no more fuel and
power than is reasonable in the
circumstances.

Nothing about a specific number of low-energy lights, or an average lumens/watt figure to be achieved, and nothing to say that if you use CFLs to provide an energy-efficient fixed building service that it doesn't count if someone could replace them with non-efficient lamps. In the same say that all the rules for air-tightness and heat loss will not prevent you having windows which can be opened.

ban-all-sheds · 11 Dec 2009

Ejaz said:
thanks for the info, i have will have to brush up on the regs soon! why does everyone hate downlights/spotlights? I have them in both my kitchen and bathroom and i much prefer them to pendants. I agree they're not great for living rooms but bedrooms i think they look cool!

What wattage do you need to light the room compared to the amount that you would need using a pendant light?

Ejaz · 11 Dec 2009

about 150w -200w in both cases, it will be a 4x3.5m room which is the same as the living room which currently uses a pendant with 5x40w G9 bulbs.

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Estimate for wiring new loft extension..

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