I have a Worcester 12/14 oil fired boiler running 14 radiators throughout the house. Hoping to have a new kitchen fitted this year and to free up some wall space I'm thinking of removing the 2 kitchen radiators and replacing them with piped underfloor heating. The existing concrete floor needs to come up anyway but I would like to stick with water rather than electric heating for cost reasons. My question is, can my existing boiler (sited immediately next to the kitchen so access to it is easy enough) be used to run the underfloor heating in addition to the radiators, ideally I would like the floor heating to be on permanently during the winter but still be able to separately control the raditors elseware in the house to come on twice a day or as required. What controls will I need if it is possible?
Underfloor heating - is it possible with my current boiler
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Bubblenskweak
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you can buy under floor heating for wet systems in kit form everthing is supplied you just need some where to install the manifold and mixing valve etc.
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Only if you have a wallet as fat as Rockefellers... Electric is cheaper to install but will rape your bank account every time you switch it on.
Wet underfloor heating kits are available.. Yes it will be expensive to install correctly (Properly insulated underneath) but it is sooo much nicer and cost effective to run
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thanks for the interesting comments, i've discounted using electric as I have it in two rooms in the house already and its bleeding expensive to run. The floor will have to come up as it's solid concrete and uninsulated as far as I can tell (can freeze a glass of water on it this time of year) As it's coming up and I intend to use piped hot water heating, am I best off re-laying a concrete floor with proper insulation or would a suspended floor with spreader plates be as good or even better?
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Although there may be some who are more conversant with underfloor who may know better, my opinion is concrete, it takes longer to warm but also acts as a heat bank... and so makes the room temperature more even... Since the floors have to come up, then get as much insulation in that floor as you can, even if it is more that required... You'll only pull your floors up once and insulation is the cheapest form of heating... More is always better
I think its got to be a solid concrete floor with the correct insulation beneath...using spreader plates on suspended timber means that ventilation and therefore heat loss is to be expected. (I've no personal experience of this but my next door neighbour has just done this...the kitchen is concrete and warm, the lounge is timber and cooler - he couldn't afford concrete there).
John
John
Hi,
The best option is the insulation and concrete. if your kitchen is less then 20 sqm, a single loop should be enough. most ufh manufacturers have small area packs, but most of them are designed to be added on to an existing radiator circuit, which means that the rads will have to be on for the ufh to work.
What you need is the a separate timer for the ufh, with it's own zone valve, and make sure you have a mixing valve to control the temperature of the flow. it's quite standard and what ever company you use shouldn't have any problems helping you. (I would recommend continental myself)
good luck
Lolli
The best option is the insulation and concrete. if your kitchen is less then 20 sqm, a single loop should be enough. most ufh manufacturers have small area packs, but most of them are designed to be added on to an existing radiator circuit, which means that the rads will have to be on for the ufh to work.
What you need is the a separate timer for the ufh, with it's own zone valve, and make sure you have a mixing valve to control the temperature of the flow. it's quite standard and what ever company you use shouldn't have any problems helping you. (I would recommend continental myself)
good luck
Lolli
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