Concrete & Wood floor tiling

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Hi

We are re-doing our kitchen/dining room and looking at getting some rectangular porcelain tiles for the floor. I'm aware these are harder to work with but am wondering if anyone will be able to advise roughly how much i'd be looking at for getting a professional to lay them; The room is kinda 'L-shaped', no obstacles (apart from kitchen units if they go in first) , about 26 square metres and has a combination of concrete and wooden floor (original dining room is concrete, kitchen is in extension which is suspended wooden floor).

I am capable of tiling this with a bit of help but hate it with a passion, so just wanting to know roughly how much extra it would cost me to get a pro to do it.

Thanks for any suggestions...
 
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What size are the tiles and is i brick effect your doing? You'll need a flexible adhesive and grout for the wooden floor which can be expensive. £30 to 50 a bag for good stuff. The last one we tiled was square tiles and it was l shaped but had a few obstacles and was 24 sq m. We charged £500.
 
Hi

They are 60cm by 30cm i believe and i think we're planning on a brick effect. What kind of area will a bag of adhesive cover and is it vastly different for porcelain tiles?

Cheers
 
No them tiles wont make any difference, the amount used will depend on how level your floor is and what thickness bed to put it on. As a guide i'd i'd say a 20kg bag will cover 3.5-4.5 sq m.
 
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get a few quote from tilefixers min off 3 imo

you will need to have an exspansion gap between the two differant subtrates or use a de-coupling membrane.

you could also ask what price they charge per m2 and also if they charge a day rate.
 
Hi

Thanks for the replies, i now have come acorss what appears to be an issues with the two floor i'm planning tile: The tiles will cover the current dining room (conrete floor) and kitchen which is in an extension (Chipboard wooden floor i found out today after ripping up some laminate), these two floors are currently both have laminate (continous between the two rooms - there is no door as the dividing wall has been removed) on them and the floor are both at the same level.

From what i can gather, i have to cover the chipboard with plywood (12-18mm??) before i can tile onto it, if i do that, the floor will then be different levels ie. the wooden floor will be 18mm higher than the concrete floor - this is all one big room so i somehow need to be able to tile it all at the same level, what are my options here guys? Can i ply over the concrete also to make them the same height or is there any other ways round it? I'm guessing i'm not the first person to come across this problem but i'm not sure what the best solution is...

As always, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
They will of said to cover the weyrock boards with ply as adhesive doesnt take well to weyrock even the specialist stuff isnt that good on weyrock.

you could just buy a few bags of self levelling compound and raise the floor height up,
 
You could raise the height of the concrete floor but 18mm is to high for ordinary screeds although you can add a limestone aggregate to the screed to strengthen it. Surely there must be a door somewhere though that will need altering.
An easier and cheaper way is to remove the woodchip panels and replace with same thickness WPB ply. I have done this succesfully a number of times and all floor levels remain the same. You could do this and still add a 3/4mm latex screed right through for added strength and level. Flexi adhesive only required on the timber area.

Another and slightly cheaper alternative,you'll either love or hate, is to lay karndean tiles, www.karndean.com just a thought!!

Andy (£500 would get your tiles installed, ply and prep work additional)




Hi

Thanks for the replies, i now have come acorss what appears to be an issues with the two floor i'm planning tile: The tiles will cover the current dining room (conrete floor) and kitchen which is in an extension (Chipboard wooden floor i found out today after ripping up some laminate), these two floors are currently both have laminate (continous between the two rooms - there is no door as the dividing wall has been removed) on them and the floor are both at the same level.

From what i can gather, i have to cover the chipboard with plywood (12-18mm??) before i can tile onto it, if i do that, the floor will then be different levels ie. the wooden floor will be 18mm higher than the concrete floor - this is all one big room so i somehow need to be able to tile it all at the same level, what are my options here guys? Can i ply over the concrete also to make them the same height or is there any other ways round it? I'm guessing i'm not the first person to come across this problem but i'm not sure what the best solution is...

As always, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Thanks guys, after much reserach on the net and in shops, it looks as though my best and easiest option, as Andy says, is just to rip up the chipboard and stick 18mm ply down in its place. this means i dont have to start messing around with the 20 sq. meteres of concrete dining room floor.

What should i be looking to pay for 18mm marine ply? i nipped to B&Q at lunch and saw it at about £26 for a sheet that was only 1.1 metre sq?!? seems a bit pricey!!

Next issue is where the concrete floor meets the plywood (the opening between the two rooms is roughly 3.5 metres wide. I'm guessing i dont want any tiles covering both floor surfaces as they will crack? Do i just lay one up to the join on one side and one up to the other side or do i need something inbetween? Sorry, i'm very much a novice, i saw expansion gap and de-coupling membrane metioned above but not sure what these are or how they would work?



Thanks again
 
£26 a sheet at B&Q for 1.2x2.4 = 2.88m/2, they just put it on the wrong shelf lol. Actually, they can charge more for a smaller sheet than a larger one because someone had to cut it and be paid!!! A builders merchant sould do a full size sheet for around 25 - 30 quid and deliver free.

where your concrete meets the timber floor is the strongest part of the timber floor, your tiles won't crack here, as long as it's level and flush. fill any gaps with caulk just to stop tile adhesive from escaping and off you go. Idealy you will leave a small say 2/3mm expansion gap between the concrete and the new ply.



Thanks guys, after much reserach on the net and in shops, it looks as though my best and easiest option, as Andy says, is just to rip up the chipboard and stick 18mm ply down in its place. this means i dont have to start messing around with the 20 sq. meteres of concrete dining room floor.

What should i be looking to pay for 18mm marine ply? i nipped to B&Q at lunch and saw it at about £26 for a sheet that was only 1.1 metre sq?!? seems a bit pricey!!

Next issue is where the concrete floor meets the plywood (the opening between the two rooms is roughly 3.5 metres wide. I'm guessing i dont want any tiles covering both floor surfaces as they will crack? Do i just lay one up to the join on one side and one up to the other side or do i need something inbetween? Sorry, i'm very much a novice, i saw expansion gap and de-coupling membrane metioned above but not sure what these are or how they would work?



Thanks again
 
Thanks guys, after much reserach on the net and in shops, it looks as though my best and easiest option, as Andy says, is just to rip up the chipboard and stick 18mm ply down in its place.
Replacing would be my chosen method; chipboard/crapboard is pretty much useless to tile over. For a heavily used lounge area, you should use 25mm but I guess that will still give you a problem with height difference. 18mm (as an absolute minimum) is usually enough for most bath/shower rooms but it depends on area & the span & rigidity of the floor joists so I would make a judgement based on that; you may need to put some additional support in to be safe. Make sure you seal the back of the WBP well with an SBR sealer to prevent moisture getting in from below & if the suspended floor is ventilated to the elements (external airbricks), I would consider laying a damp proof membrane under the ply as well. If you get any moisture in the underside of the ply it’ll warp & there go your tiles.
What should i be looking to pay for 18mm marine ply?
You don’t need to go to the expense of marine ply, exterior grade, WBP is made using the same waterproof adhesives but without nice facing veneers & is much cheaper. Shop around, both local & on line; if you need a few, they come cheaper & if you can meet a minimum order you may even get delivery thrown in.
Next issue is where the concrete floor meets the plywood (the opening between the two rooms is roughly 3.5 metres wide. I'm guessing i dont want any tiles covering both floor surfaces as they will crack? Do i just lay one up to the join on one side and one up to the other side or do i need something inbetween? Sorry, i'm very much a novice, i saw expansion gap and de-coupling membrane metioned above but not sure what these are or how they would work?
I agree with Tictic & would advise a decoupling membrane or expansion gap or it’ll probably crack where the two dissimilar floor materials meet. There are different solutions available or you could just break the tile line at the boundary & have an expansion gap. Depends if you want to chance it or not , personally I wouldn’t. ;)
 

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