Cable Spec for Honeywell T6360B Room Thermostat

Hi, my thermostat has been positiond in the wrong place, its been positiond on the landing but needs to be down stairs in the hall.

In its present position it dose not regulate the heat as it should so need to move it. Can anyone tell me what cable spec i need as i need a longer run. I would think it would need to be Heat recistant? it only has two feeds goining in, a neutral feed and a live feed, theres no earth. cable coulor is grey and black , what load rating should the cable be?

Thanks
Jaowen.

When the stat is remote from the wiring centre or the boiler most people would use simple lighting TE 1.0mm with a earth.

There's no need for high temp cable, I'm not sure why you think a wiring job extending away from a heat source would need to be heat rated.

If you intend to update the stat for a digi / prog / time / temp setting item do check the manufacturers site, I believe some require 3 cores (and you can't / shouldn't use a earth in a TE as a 3rd core).

That thermostat you have requires 4 cores: live, switched live, neutral and earth.

Run a flat 3 core and earth cable from the source: boiler/airing cupboard.

I would always use 3+E even if you think you won't need it, it gives you the flexibility to add a mains-powered one later instead of relying on batteries.

Or if it is a lot of trouble, you could splash out on a wireless stat. I am not usually keen on these as I prefer simple things that are unlikely to go wrong.

Are you sure there is only grey and black - this is an unusual combination. A 5-core flex has the usual brown, blue and green/yellow, plus grey and black. Have the other wires just been cut back?
The wiring to the 'stat' is 'control' wiring so not subject to the same rules as power circuits, however, it's alway better to use the correct colours or sleeving to identify live conductors. Where there is an earth in the cable it should be correctly terminated at the origin whether or not it is required in the fitting.
The stat is basically a switch between terminals 1 & 3 (1=live in, 3= switched live out). Connecting the neutral (t2) makes the stat work to a narrower rate of rise (Honeywell call it 'anticipation') so makes it more efficient. You will then be using a multicore flex or cable so the earth should be terminated to the earth terminal at both ends, but isn't essential to the stat. Your c/h installtion should only be on a 3amp or max 5amp fuse so 1.0 or 1.5 cable is adequate or, say, 0.75mm flex. If you can't re-wire in one piece then extend, joining the two cables/flexes in suitable, accessible junction box.

Sorry, meant to add 3core + earth has brown, black and grey, plus a bare earth wire which should be sleeved green yellow, so check that the brown and earth haven't just been snipped back. If so you can correctly wire the stat: brown = 1 (live from programmer 'c/h on'), grey =2 (neutral, sleeved blue), black= 3 (sleeved brown - live switch wire), plus earth. Of course, it is essential that all are correctly connected at the wiring centre/valves etc depending on the system setup. If you go to www.honeywelluk.co.uk all the wiring circuits are there

Thanks for the reply, Yes they have used a 5 core cable and cut the rest back, only using the black and grey as live in on 1 and live switched on 3,

This themostat has an LED indicator on it which has never worked, i've downloded the circuit diagram for the stat, it says, Lamp version internally wired, illuminated on call of heat, however it dose not show or state what teminals to use to wire the LED internally?

For the neon to work it requires a neutral connected to terminal two.

very annoying to find cable cores cut back

Yes, WHY do it especially as it could have been a perfect installation instead of a botch job. Makes me wonder what the wiring centre looks like (if there is one)!