How do you close a cavity below a door opening?
- Thread starter mertotman
- Start date
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Just before you screed the floor you remove any inner skin material above the oversite concrete at any door openings. We deliberately lay a brick course on top of the last course of inner leaf blocks to be able to achieve this easily.
Once you remove this material you then lay dpm within the trough that is remaining then screed right up to the door frame sill.
If the builders have not done this then they don't know what they are doing.
Some builders deliberately set out the door openings when building the inner leaf, but this is only usually done when using the oversite concrete as the finishing floor surface, i.e. when power floating the oversite concrete to ffl.
Once you remove this material you then lay dpm within the trough that is remaining then screed right up to the door frame sill.
If the builders have not done this then they don't know what they are doing.
Some builders deliberately set out the door openings when building the inner leaf, but this is only usually done when using the oversite concrete as the finishing floor surface, i.e. when power floating the oversite concrete to ffl.
The last time I did this on my conservatory I filled the 50mm cavity with concrete with two vertical DPC's either side, and one underneath. It was fiddly and doesn't look particularly atttractive.
Can you use a normal cavity closer, assuming that some kind of sturdy finished floor material is being used?
Nose- just to be clear, are you saying you'd remove the top row of inner leaf bricks just below DPC level, then extend the DPM so that it laps up the the inner side of the external leaf? As you say, I guess I may as well build the concrete floor that way to start with if the concrete will be the floor material.
Gary
Can you use a normal cavity closer, assuming that some kind of sturdy finished floor material is being used?
Nose- just to be clear, are you saying you'd remove the top row of inner leaf bricks just below DPC level, then extend the DPM so that it laps up the the inner side of the external leaf? As you say, I guess I may as well build the concrete floor that way to start with if the concrete will be the floor material.
Gary
Correct.
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just a note for future works.if you know your door positions,return the foundation blockwork/brickwork at the correct point and then lay your hardcore/concrete etc as you would normally,then your DPM,slab are all nice and neat and no bricks to knock off later etc.
Hi Chukka,
Are you saying that the wall under the door position would become single skin for the couple of courses up to door level, and then run everthing including the insulation, slab etc, up to the inside of the outer skin?
I guess that's what Noseall was saying, but it didn't occur to me that I'd have insulation on top of the DPM, so would probably need more like three bricks worth / 1 block.
Gary
Are you saying that the wall under the door position would become single skin for the couple of courses up to door level, and then run everthing including the insulation, slab etc, up to the inside of the outer skin?
I guess that's what Noseall was saying, but it didn't occur to me that I'd have insulation on top of the DPM, so would probably need more like three bricks worth / 1 block.
Gary
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