rendering & tyrolean

Hi everyone, Can anyone help?
I have been a plaster now for 6 months and while doing an interior job I was asked if I would consider doing an exterior rendering job as the owners original pebbledash finish was falling off due to the length of time it had been up, it was falling off in great big slabs. I agreed to do the job as I don't like turning down work, I have never attempted this before apart from on a training course that I attended some 6 months back, where we put on a scratch coat followed by a smooth finish coat done with a wet sponge. This job is a little different as it has to be tyrolean then painted white. I will run through how I think to do the job if anyone has anything to add feel free to let me know on here or e-mail me
chisel remaining coat off, clean all the brickwork with a brush, pva brickwork, put on a scratch coat of 5 parts sand to 1 cement with 1 part lime ( is this needed ), then a smooth finish coat leave this to dry and fire tyrolean on with a flickatex and paint with masonry paint. ????????????


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do your scratch coat stronger with 3-1-1 then 5-1-1 on your top coat the lime is necessary because it moves with the building reducing cracks. when your tyrolean use a sharp sand and cement mixed quite wet. fire it left to right then right to left then straight on giving you an even coat, it is very hard if not sometimes imposible to match up to existing render so it might be worth tyrolean the whole wall your patching up.

jb is dead right. I'd add that your scratch coat be 10-12mm and lightly surface scratched then allowed to dry. The top coat to be 10mm and finished off with a wood float and also allowed to dry. Start the Tyrolean at the top and work down doing small "squares" at a time while keeping the applicator at right angles and about 250mm from the work. Two workers are reqd. one to mix and one to apply. Do the whole area in one go, dont work to dry edges. Its a very messy job so have all prepared. Practice with the mix before commencing.
Come back to us if you are setting about a full gable.
As a matter of interest what kind of plastering course have you been on?

As a matter of interest what kind of plastering course have you been on?

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I went college for a year when I left school did it for 5 months with a guy then didnt do any plastering for nearly 4 years so I went on a weeks course in Nottingham as a refresher. It weren't brillant!!!

What proportion sand and cement should the tyrolean mix be? And does it also need lime in it?

you will find it extremely difficult to tyrol with sharp sand as it is too dense a material and you will only be able to fill the applicator with small amounts as when it is applied it will be far too thick a stipple, use tyrolean you mix straight from the bag.....thats what its made for! or next best a plastering sand ..very wet 3..1..1 with lime and waterproofer, still a tricky job for the unexperienced, so best advised to use bagged tyrolean.
build up the honeycomb texture over three or four applications otherwise you will end up with a splodgey mess, dont do this on a hot day and soak down the floated walls prior to starting, if you complete the floating coat and have the time then give a first coat of tyrolean straight after floating, the next couple of sprays can be done the following day.You can also use white sand and snowcrete cement,lime and waterproofer. best results achieved with patience and building up a perfect even finish by applying the next coat as the previous one begins to set.

soak the wall before scratch coating too, and scratch with 4;1;1. with added plasterciser

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