DIYnot
Local | Network
   DIYnot > Forums
Local | Network
DIYnot Network Local DIYnot Network Local  
  Forum IndexForum Index     RulesRules    HelpHelp     Join FREERegister Free     About CookiesCookies     SearchSearch     LoginLogin 

Wiring a room thermostat, could do with some wire help pleas

Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 5:47 pm Reply with quote

Hello all

Long time lurker, first timr poster - now that I need some advice!

I'm sure you knowledgeable peeps can sort me out.

I've taken some pics to help explain my situation...

My current room thermostat is a Sunvic TLX 5201



Which I want to replace with a programmable thermostat, A siemens RDJ10-GB, to take over the timer that's on the boiler, primarily because the boiler timer can't help with setting automatically a separate night time temperature. It requires 3 feeds as standard, LX, L1 and L2.

Opening my current thermostat, and inside is a wiring diagram (I couldn't find installation instructions anywhere):





Here's some pics of the actual wired-up thermostat:





At the other end of the wiring, at the Powermax 155x boiler (I know, I know!), it looks like this:


The white cabling at the bottom is the feed from the thermostat.

The fitting instructions from the installation booklet for the boiler:





I'd appreciate if someone could help me out, all I want to know is which wires currently in use would be the ones I need to use with the new thermostat, ie. the LX, L1, L2. Also, I may have to do some wiring at the boiler end.

If I've missed anything, please ask me - I'm more than happy to investigate further.

thanks in advance!

valmiki
Back to top
 Alert Moderators

If you do not want to see this advert, click here to login or if you are new click here to join free.
imroberts

from United Kingdom

Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 281
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 13 times

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:30 pm Reply with quote

I'd say red to LX and yellow to L1, and terminate the blue cable in a choc block, as this will be an unneeded neutral.

Make sure your power is off before you start as well, as it looks like it's a 230V switching on the thermostat.

Don't go wiring it up until someone else has confirmed they agree with me though, I'm tired icon_eek.gif
Back to top
The following user says thank you to imroberts for this useful post:
valmiki (15 Apr 2010)
 Alert Moderators
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:40 pm Reply with quote

thanks very much, I appreciate you taking the time

The manual for the thermostat I'm planning to install is here, the download link is about halfway down the page.

As for the 5-core goes, it disappears behind the plasterboard as it is and I've no idea after that - that did confuse me a little.

thanks again

valmiki
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
imroberts

from United Kingdom

Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 281
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 13 times

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:42 pm Reply with quote

Don't worry about where the 5 core goes, I was over-complicating things!

I've edited my original post now icon_smile.gif


Last edited by imroberts on Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:46 pm, edited 2 times in total
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:44 pm Reply with quote

ok cheers, I'll wait for someone else to give me the green light too icon_wink.gif
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
imroberts

from United Kingdom

Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 281
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 13 times

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:46 pm Reply with quote

Do you have a multimeter?

If my assumptions above are correct, you should find 230V between red and blue, and should find continuity between red and yellow when the thermostat is operational (i.e. demanding the boiler to be on) and open circuit when it's upto temperature.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2010 8:50 pm Reply with quote

I haven't I'm afraid...
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
stem

from United Kingdom

Joined: 20 Jul 2005
Posts: 1672
Location: Nottinghamshire,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 240 times

PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 7:55 am Reply with quote

From the diagram on your original thermostat the original wires are identified as:

Red wire = Live = terminal 1
Yellow wire = Heat (Switched live)= terminal 8
Blue wire = Neutral = terminal 2

At your new thermostat

LX= Live = Red wire
L1= Switched Live (heat) = Yellow wire
L2 is not used

Isolate the blue neutral as it's not required (whatever you do don't connect it to L2)

So imroberts is correct.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 8:01 am Reply with quote

stem

Brilliant!, I'll get on to it this weekend and post back

thanks again
valmiki
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:18 am Reply with quote

sorry about the wait, only had time to fit it this morning

result:



thanks to imroberts and stem

JUst like Colombo, I have one final question though...



On my boiler controller, would I leave it on the 24hrs setting, so that the boiler will only be controlled by the room thermostat?

currently the switch on the left is on the 'I' 'Timed' setting (different from in the pic, I was fiddling to see what worked) and now the room controller works as it should, but doesn't this mean that the hot water is on continuously as well, or is that not an issue?

huge thanks!

valmiki
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:20 am Reply with quote

To carry on from my previous post, the instructions I've posted earlier mention some wire arrangements at the boiler, would I need to do this?

thanks
valmiki

[edit] just rang the Potterton helpline, looks like I don't need to do anything. The 155x has a cylinder but it is only used for CH, hot water is on demand only. Cheers valmiki.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
imroberts

from United Kingdom

Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 281
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 13 times

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:55 pm Reply with quote

valmiki wrote:
To carry on from my previous post, the instructions I've posted earlier mention some wire arrangements at the boiler, would I need to do this?

thanks
valmiki

[edit] just rang the Potterton helpline, looks like I don't need to do anything. The 155x has a cylinder but it is only used for CH, hot water is on demand only. Cheers valmiki.

Glad it all went to plan icon_smile.gif

Your wiring could certainly be simplified, as I mentioned before you seem to have 5 core cable leaving the boiler and only 2 wires are needed at the thermostat... but if it's all working and you don't want to start ripping wires out and replacing them then I would leave as is.

The wiring as you've connected it is as it should be, your configuration falls under paragraph 5. i.e. you have a clock type thermostat connected to pins 27 and 28 in the boiler.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
DP

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Dec 2003
Posts: 6402
Location: Glasgow,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 696 times

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:27 pm Reply with quote

Glad it has worked out. I must say the unit looks very unsightly. My choice is Danfoss TP 5000Si which looks dogs whatsit anywhere.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
stem

from United Kingdom

Joined: 20 Jul 2005
Posts: 1672
Location: Nottinghamshire,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 240 times

PostPosted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:49 am Reply with quote

valmiki wrote:
On my boiler controller, would I leave it on the 24hrs setting, so that the boiler will only be controlled by the room thermostat?

currently the switch on the left is on the 'I' 'Timed' setting (different from in the pic, I was fiddling to see what worked) and now the room controller works as it should, but doesn't this mean that the hot water is on continuously as well, or is that not an issue?

Looking at the built in programmer at your boiler, there appears to be two channels, one marked (HW) hot water and the other (CH) central heating. Why not set the CH to 24 hrs and use the HW time settings as before?

Depending on the design of your plumbing, you may find that you will need to have the HW set 'on' at the times you want the central heating on for it to work anyway, but even if you do, at least the HW won't be on 24/7
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
valmiki

from United Kingdom

Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Location: West Glamorgan,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:35 pm Reply with quote

hi DP

Interesting, the Danfoss controller looks full of features but is twice the price I paid for the Siemens, however I'll take a closer look just in case - if it looks worth it I may buy it and flog the Siemens one on fleabay.

stem, this was one of the reasons why I asked my questions. There are two channels for HW and CH but on the programmer the CH 'forces' the HW to the same setting. For example, I can have HW and CH both on auto (timer) but if I change the CH to 24hrs it will also change the HW to 24hrs, if that makes sense? With the CH on 24hrs I can't change the HW to anything else.

This was why I though initially that I'd have to adjust some wires at the boiler, but the bloke on the helpline was adamant that the HW on these boilers is on demand only - but if that's the case why would it have a separate channel for programming?

Guess you guys know more about this than I do, I'm just glad that the bloke on the phone didn't want to check I was corgi-registered, etc.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating All times are GMT
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Similar Topics   Replies   Views   Posted 
Water leaking from boiler & pump screeching - Help Pleas 3 240 Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:26 am
Greenstar Ri stopped working. Help pleas? 7 140 Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:04 am
Re-routing a bathroom waste: digging & design tips pleas 2 620 Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:13 am
can anyone help determine why a radiator isn't working pleas 3 60 Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:15 pm
Hot Water Help pleas 4 60 Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:12 pm


 
DIYnot
Find an Expert | Find a Supplier | Search DIYnot.com
Network | Advertising | Newsletter
DIY | DIY How To | @home | DIY Wiki | DIY Forum
By using this site you agree to our Terms of Service / Disclaimer.
Please read our Privacy Policy. Copyright © 2000-2014 DIYnot Limited.