Trying to diagnose and old oven's problem

Greetings I'm new to the forum. I'm trying to repair an old oven for a home owner. It's one of those units that goes into a space they've built in a wall. It is only an oven (no burners for cooking, just the stove)

I'm in Canada and we use 220V AC which I know is different than you in the UK use (I used to live in the UK).

I have 220VAC to the socket and as far as I can tell the large four wire cable that connects to the terminals at the back of the stove is fairly new and in good nick. Neither element, broiler at the top or element in the bottom get hot. I believe it's a GE of some sort and my questions are. We don't have a schematic and removing the back of the oven reveals the terminals and several connectors that house and feed the light inside, timer etc. Do these older ovens even have fuses in them because there are none in the back and there is no sign of any behind the glass control panel in the front when you remove the dials etc. Even removing the glass seems more difficult than usual telling me there are no fuses in this oven, as would be normal with almost any stove/oven I've ever repaired.
It "yells" this is a problem with fuses, but as far as i can see there aren't any. Any idea if an oven like this even comes with any? Checked front back sides, no inspection plate or panel holes.

There really isn't any visible reason that both broiler element and oven element don't heat up. Breaker panel is good. Our stove sockets for 220V have four prongs, 2 110V 10G wires, plus one common and one ground. My test light indicates both 110s are live there since it lights up on either side.

As per the elements, the lower one does get minimal heat but certainly isn't getting 220V. The broiler element at the top remains cold altogether.
The oven lught inside won;t come on but the owner claims it never did. He's very old however and not much help.

thanks in advance.

First of all throw away your test light & buy a multi meter, they are a lot less misleading, secondly the other difference in the UK is that we would use 3 wires to the cooker switch & on to the cooker itself. I presume when you say that you have 220v at the cooker socket you are relying on a volt stick or something similar, which as far as I am aware does not prove that you have a neutral return. This would be a common problem ( loss of neutral) in the UK but obviously I am not sure in your situation.

i presume you have two phase supplies 180 deg out therefore you nget 220 across the phases. you need a multimeter to accuratly and safely test for voltage before you start.

It's not a 2-phase supply, it's 3-wire single-phase, centre neutral.

fixingperson - you really need to take your problem to a North American electrical or appliance repair forum.