New Wet Room Install

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mossy810

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Hello,

I'm installing a new wet room. Just at the stage now of finishing the walls. I have completed all the plumbing and its been in place for a few months now. Everything works nicely with no leaks etc.

Can anyone see any issues with what I have installed? (See pic below)



Cheers,

Pete
 
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No ptfe required round the thread if the fitting has an olive.
It's the olive that makes the seal not the thread.

If you have tested it then thats fine.

Good work with the pipe bender :)

It would be good to have your isolation valves accessible, don't think they will be there.

Fit the best performing waste you can.

Andy.
 
Cheers Andy,

There is a main bathroom on the other side of the wall, (waiting to be re-done too). There will be an access panel from other side of the stud wall there so I should be able to get at the isolators from there.

I have also fitted a Top Dec tray with a built in waste which came from Topps tiles as a whole kit. 25 ltr / min I think it is from Impey.

Thanks for the advice :D

Pete
 
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Not bad work,but as suggested before by someone get rid of those cheap isolaters,those screw types cause restriction and with all that pipe bending etc you will have lovely flow

Thats sure sign of diyer placing ptfe of the threads when the olive actually makes a water tight seal! A light smear of jointing compound would have been alot better,but as long as its completely water tight then alls gravy :LOL: :LOL:

Well done
 
I'd unscrew the shower head from the elbow and cut a hole in your backerboard, as it looks like it's going to be in the middle of a board and not and the end, and you want as few joins in the backerboard as possible as joins can produce a greater leakage risk (IE don't cut a board just so it'll go round the shower head).

Is there a second shower head on a hose to be attached later? If so then the supplies should really have double check valves on if the cold, or hot and cold, are fed off mains. If it's low pressure to both sides (fed from a loft tank and traditional cylinder) then you don't need DCVs. Full-bore isolation valves would be a good idea normal ballofixs such as those you've installed place huge restrictions on pipework as their bore is only about 7mm and your giant shower head is going to need all the help it can get. It's hard to tell from here but it also looks like the shower mixer is tapped for 3/4" fittings, if this is the case why did you use 15mm pipe and not 22mm to the mixer?

Other than that, well done :D
 
Cheers for the comments so far chaps.

Muggles...

The shower head is only there at the moment because I was testing the fitting in the elbow. I have already drilled a hole in the backboard ready to go :)

There is going to be a slider rail fitting on the other side there to right. I know basically what a double check valve does, but not 100% sure why I need them in this situation? I have a combi boiler.

The shower mixer is tapped for 3/4" fittings, but didn't come with any actual compression fittings. The manual said to source these myself in 15mm, so I went off to City Plumbing with my mixer and got the screw in fittings. This is a replacement for a wet room that was badly fitted when I moved in, so I was just using the pipe work that was already there, ie from the isolator valves downwards were existing pipes.

How can you tell whether an isolater is full bore or normal? Apart from looking inside?

Thanks again all for the pointers.

Pete
 
Double Check Valves in a wet room are a sliiiiightly grey area to some, but my opinion is that if there's a grey area then you should err on the side of caution. DCVs are used to prevent potentially mucky, bacteria-filled, water being drawn back into the mains through the shower hose in the event of a mains failure. Granted, this is only really likely to happen if the drain's blocked and the shower head is dangling in the water on the floor when the mains fails, which is a highly unlikely situation, but regs are regs and we must all be paranoid about these things!! It's especially unlikely in wetrooms as the water would normally end up flowing out of the doorway before it bothered the shower hose, hence the slightly grey area, but better to spend the extra £5 and fit DCVs than not IMHO

Full bore isolators tend to be physically larger, City do full-bore ballofix valves but I'd tend to go for quarter-turn lever valves, which are almost all full-bore and also need no tools to operate.
 
Either the description or the picture's wrong for the Comap ones but judging by the price I'd say it's the picture that's wrong, and those will do fine. The T-handle ones would also do but they tend to go very stiff so you can find you need a tool to turn them anyway.
 
Okay thanks guys, ill go into City and ask for some to save mistakes.

Back to the double check valves, I get what you mean about those. Where abouts would they need to be fitted, and is it on the hot and cold feeds?
 
DCVs go after the isolation valves (in case they jam and need to be changed), and on both the hot and cold supplies
 
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