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how to render with insulation a wooden timber clad house

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benwilliamson

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 1:51 pm Reply with quote

1960s prefab currently wooden cladding on the out side 4x2 walls like stud work and wooden cladding on the inside, on the inside i have used 50mm jab lite to insulate it and finished off with plaster board plaster paint, now looking to do somthing similar cheaply on the out side like king span and render but not sure what to do any ideas greatly appreciated its a three bedroom semi swedish timber frame and timber clad, i have planning for weatherby building systems product but its expensive and they don't want to sell me it?. silicone and polymer modded render over kingspan k5,
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benwilliamson

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 1:53 pm Reply with quote

plus one thing because i have used jab lite on the inside the out side ought to be breathable as in not kingspan screwed to the house, although again i have had several different op-ions
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Micilin

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 2:30 pm Reply with quote

benwilliamson wrote:
plus one thing because i have used jab lite on the inside the out side ought to be breathable as in not kingspan screwed to the house, although again i have had several different op-ions


Have a look at STO , K rend, Weber - all finishes with choice of colour.

You could insulate with jablite or similar then on to that base coat, fibre glass mesh , finish coat,

Cement board, base coat ,fibreglass mesh, render is another option.

Twill lath on to timber studs , then oridnary s&c render onto that.

(This is a proprietry square mesh with intergral building paper)

Or paper , riblath, s&c render.

Have a search on those and come back
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benwilliamson

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Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 2:37 pm Reply with quote

cheers but where to buy these things from i know i need kingspan or similar but its the render ie silicone flexi or not flexi cement? eml or chicken wire or fibre glass etc etc etc where sells the k rend or webber, i think i rang webber about it they put me on hold then the phone cut off

cheers for reply
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external

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 5:32 pm Reply with quote

ply all the way round then phenolic screwed on ,meshed and beaded to suit the finnish,did 120 for wolvo five years ago ,forget sto ,to expensive,try a k solution,phone the reps they will help more than you think.
edit to say phone weatherby and you will get help.
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benwilliamson

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Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Lincolnshire,
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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:48 am Reply with quote

like the idea external but realisticly what will that cost just to buy products, my plan was 40mm thick battons spaced about 450 wide screwed on kingspan off ebay seconds, eml and cement render any ideas on that cheers ben
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Micilin

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:26 am Reply with quote

benwilliamson wrote:
like the idea external but realisticly what will that cost just to buy products, my plan was 40mm thick battons spaced about 450 wide screwed on kingspan off ebay seconds, eml and cement render any ideas on that cheers ben


INsulation over timbers ?


external- have you meshed on to kingspan before? I've gone on to polystyrene. But the key on to kingspan foil?


Would hpx or rendaid- then fiba mesh - and then render or poly finish work as cheapest option?
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benwilliamson

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Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Lincolnshire,
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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:10 am Reply with quote

No what i meant was like stud work screwed on to the house say 2x2 so a batten then a 450 x 50mm kingspan board then a baton kingspan board etc etc

then mesh the house with expanded metal lath all window beads etc etc

then what to do with the top, the house next door has a cement render approx 10mm thick on it, I helped fit an extractor fan took a core sample , but they have a rock wool in the middle which will not give me the u value i need as i have building regs on mine to use a thermolic board (kingspan)

the other half of my semi is about 60mm thicker than my house, realisticly i wanted to make my house look similar to theirs as in same thickness

or use a k rend type product but the house is 100 meters and what will cost, spoke to k rend yesterday they quoted 15 a bag for base will do 4 meters and 10 a bag for top coat will do 1 meter your talking 1375 + vat where as cement render will probebly cost around around 100

what about adding sbr or pva or plastercisizer to normal sand cement render

there are no cracks next door or next door but one they where done about 10 years ago but i have no idea exactly how, the houses are in utterby nr louth lincolnshire
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external

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 11:11 am Reply with quote

micilin,no mate the kingspans we use are the pink board with a paper face.
ben,you could modify your own top coat,but the base coat needs to be hp12 or similar,you will get more than 4m2 if a tight coat solution is used,the boards are breathable,you might want to try rockwool bats as your base board,you can buy these dirrect,sheffied insulations will be able to supply the powders boards and mesh.
pop along to the weatherby site,there a grants in place to help with this kind or work,up to 75% i do believe an they will apply for you if you qualify.
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Micilin

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 2:56 pm Reply with quote

external wrote:
micilin,no mate the kingspans we use are the pink board with a paper face.


Cheers, do you give them a rub of a 'rasp' first?


12 seems dear for the k rend. 8-9 would have thought?
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external

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 4:10 pm Reply with quote

no m8 the paper face has to be left intact,and yes id have thought you could buy the powders much cheaper.
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benwilliamson

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 5:28 pm Reply with quote

what about my idea of normal king span with stud work ,expanded metal lath and either normal sand cement render or mey be with an addative or would i have to use to the polyermer modded render

cheers ben
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Micilin

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 5:36 pm Reply with quote

benwilliamson wrote:
what about my idea of normal king span with stud work ,expanded metal lath and either normal sand cement render or mey be with an addative or would i have to use to the polyermer modded render

cheers ben


You could use metal mesh -the recommended would be stainless steel rib lath , rather than eml. Then you could render, and an SBR added would give you some flex. You could use galv eml, which is cheaper, but will eventually (who knows how long?) rust, and you will have to paint it at least twice in ten years.

The advantage of the other systems mentioned is the mesh is fibreglass, so it is a bit more flexible, won't rust, and a tight coat will cover it it is also cheaper than metal lath and easier to use. The final coat will be coloured, so no painting. The over all thickness will be less too.
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benwilliamson (25 May 2010)
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benwilliamson

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 May 2010
Posts: 24
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 5:49 pm Reply with quote

kingspan on ebay seconds 50mm thick about 200 for 100m eml off ebay although i will price this up locally approx 160 sand cement render maybe 100 all other bits edges 2x2 screws etc etc maybe another 100 total 560 i priced up a polymer modded system from wbs it was somthing like 2700 + vat and its got a thin plastic top coat against a metal and cement top coat . i need a bout 100 meters any ideas cheers ben
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external

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Jan 2009
Posts: 241
Location: West Midlands,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 27 times

PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 7:40 pm Reply with quote

Micilin wrote:
benwilliamson wrote:
what about my idea of normal king span with stud work ,expanded metal lath and either normal sand cement render or mey be with an addative or would i have to use to the polyermer modded render

cheers ben


You could use metal mesh -the recommended would be stainless steel rib lath , rather than eml. Then you could render, and an SBR added would give you some flex. You could use galv eml, which is cheaper, but will eventually (who knows how long?) rust, and you will have to paint it at least twice in ten years.

The advantage of the other systems mentioned is the mesh is fibreglass, so it is a bit more flexible, won't rust, and a tight coat will cover it it is also cheaper than metal lath and easier to use. The final coat will be coloured, so no painting. The over all thickness will be less too.

+++
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