Removing a rad without isolation valves

Kalibre · 13 Jun 2010

Hi,

So I'm planning to remove the rad in the lounge and also remove the pipes coming into the room from under the stairs. Removing the rad is the easy bit, but I'm not sure how to cut back the pipes without draining the system down.

Both pipes of the rad are spurred off of a another vertical run under the stairs, so my first assumption is that because it's clearly on it's own and not feeding another rad I can just cap the pipes individually once cut close to the spur point.

The actual cutting I was thinking of doing with a pipe freezing kit applied and a good quality push-fit cap for each pipe. That way I should only have the water in the pipes (and the rad of course) to deal with.

Good idea? Thanks in advance.

JMLanders · 13 Jun 2010

Make sure that you have turned off all other rads at both ends - then you just have the water in the pipes. When you remove the rad from the room, drain off the water from the pipework from these valves. If you have access under the floor, then cutting the pipes under here will also help drain the pipes.

You could use a freezing kit, but if you can protect the area surrounding where you intend to cut the pipes, then slice them off and quickly slip the pushfit endcaps on.

petit_pablo · 13 Jun 2010

I can see this one getting messy

howstricks · 13 Jun 2010

petit_pablo said:
I can see this one getting messy

definately an e.a/g.a call !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

herebriefly · 14 Jun 2010

Turn off rad vlvs. Drain & remove radiator. Use a bung kit on the oven vent & cold feed. Undo 1 rad valve and drain pipework (you should only be able to drain a very small amount). Cut this pipe where you want and cap it. Then repeat for the other pipe. Job done.

kirkgas · 14 Jun 2010

JMLanders said:
Make sure that you have turned off all other rads at both ends - then you just have the water in the pipes. When you remove the rad from the room, drain off the water from the pipework from these valves. If you have access under the floor, then cutting the pipes under here will also help drain the pipes.

You could use a freezing kit, but if you can protect the area surrounding where you intend to cut the pipes, then slice them off and quickly slip the pushfit endcaps on.

do it, do it, do it, do it, c'mon you know you want to

done it many times, you just need to get organised, not panic and go for it.

herebriefly · 14 Jun 2010

JUMP IT LIVE!

Kalibre · 15 Jun 2010

lol. I like the idea of 'jumping it live', but it's the cutting of the pipe that takes the time with water p&^%ing everywhere I'm not sure how 'smooth' the operation would be.

Thanks for the advice all.

JMLanders · 15 Jun 2010

Just to clarify, using a freezing kit will not be necessary as you have already drained the pipes as explained

You do need to protect the surrounding areas since there may be some moisture in the pipewok.

I apologise for my "colleagues" on here, who seem unable to fully read more than a couple of words in a post at any one sitting

mysteryman · 16 Jun 2010

These procedures are OK if nothing goes wrong.

Check that you have fittings for the correct pipe size and that it has never swollen with frost, and beware of imperial 3/4 inch copper.

Kalibre · 16 Jun 2010

JMLanders said:
Just to clarify, using a freezing kit will not be necessary as you have already drained the pipes as explained You do need to protect the surrounding areas since there may be some moisture in the pipewok.

I apologise for my "colleagues" on here, who seem unable to fully read more than a couple of words in a post at any one sitting

lol.

Ok, think I've got the idea but I'll admit that heating isn't my forte. The two rad pipes spur off of a set of vertical pipes that come out of the floor and then into the ceiling of the understairs cupboard. So I would think that I would need to drain the pipes of all the rads upstairs which even with the actual rads turned off may still be a lot of water. I'd also then have to bleed them all to get the water back in the system wouldn't I?

JMLanders · 16 Jun 2010

It's not much in the grand plan of things - chances are it'll create it's own airlocks and hold some water in the pipes anyway.

And yes, bleeding the system afterwards will become necessary. Not too onorous surely

Kalibre · 16 Jun 2010

Groovy. Sounds like a plan then. Cheers.

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Removing a rad without isolation valves

JMLanders

herebriefly

herebriefly

JMLanders

mysteryman

JMLanders

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