Honeywell diverter valve problem on Radiant RSF24 combi

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Greetings.

Both CH and DHW work on the Radiant RSF24 combi

However, on DHW only-- with CH off, the CH pipes are getting hot and DHW flow seems a bit low.

After checking the forums here, my best guess is the diverter valve is not working [jammed in mid position?].

I've tried moving the valve man/auto lever and dont hear the usual "whirring".

I've found the whole part here.

00091836.JPG


RADIANT 3-WAY DIVERTOR VALVE V4044C 1353 96001LA

so my questions are;

is the diverter valve faulty?

how do I test to see if its the valve or the head/motor that has failed?

can I replace just the motor on this valve, and if so what's the part number?

**edit to ad, just found the motor part number 40002737-002, but I can only find motor part # 40002737-003 -- is this a direct replacement?

can I replace just the power head?

is there a substitute valve?

any help/advice much appreciated

thanks!
 
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diaverta vavle is passing by sounds it
check this by feeling the pipes if pipe to ch heating get warm but the hot water does not or not as hot then i would replace the whole vavle
you can get other models but i would not recommend it as they all tend to be little diffrent and you may come across problems if you do
 
thanks for the reply.

How do the valves differ? Do you know if honeywell have a tech email/helpline for this kind of thing?

Thanks
 
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thanks for the info.

I re-searched here, [omitting diverter] and found lots more info on valves.

I've managed to push the diverter switch to manual, [am I right in thinking thats DHW only on a combi?] and that seems to have solved it.

does this mean its the head?

my honeywell has a dimple, so can I just replace the head?

any help much appreciated.

thanks
 
The valve doesn't have a "mid" position.
The "Man "position would hold it mechanically in the middle somewhere though, which should be of no value to you.

If your valve head has the pimple then yes you can just change the head, though I doubt that's faulty if it's moving at all.

Take the cover off the head (U shape) and watch it while switching between CH and HW. If you see toothed parts moving through an angle of 45 degrees or so, it's unlikely to be faulty.

If it's dead, just change the motor.

If you want to change the whole head, you can use the more common 3 port V4073 head if you join the grey and white wires together in place of brown, and, make orange safe.
 
thanks all, for the very helpful replies

in "man" position, the DHW flow is now sufficient that the boiler is not kicking in/out [DHW going hot/ cold] but the CH pipe is still getting hot.

is this more of a clue?

I'll take the cover off tomorrow and have a look.

Thanks again
 
oops, button pressed :oops:

there is also a switch on the front panel for winter/off/summer

and just found this schematic, if that helps


thanks again
 

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