Electrics in a log cabin.

greenep · 14 Jul 2010

I am about to erect a log cabin in my garden, the log cabin will reside next door to a detached garage that has a consumer unit containing 2 MCB's which supply the lights and power in the garage.

What I'd like to do is replace this CU with a larger one and have power for the log cabin's light's, ring main and under floor heating on this CU.

As this cabling would have to leave the CU, go outside (probably underground) and then back inside the log cabin do I need to use special cabling or can I bury the 2.5 mm t&e?

I'm aware that all this work would need to be part p certified and I will probably discuss with a sparky at some point I was just hoping someone could clear this issue up for me in advance of these discussions?

Thanks.

ban-all-sheds · 14 Jul 2010

1) You can't bury T/E

2) 2.5mm² is the wrong size.

3) None of the above matter because your electrician will use the right type, and right size, of cable.

greenep · 14 Jul 2010

As I said I was hoping someone would take the time to suggest the approach the electrician would take in advance of me speaking to him, but I appreciate your reply.

ban-all-sheds · 14 Jul 2010

He'll want to bury armoured cable of the right size.

Why do you need to know in advance? You can't provide any of the materials cheaper than he can, and you can't dig the trench except to his specifications.

I get the feeling I'm missing something here....

greenep · 14 Jul 2010

I don't think you are missing anything, it's quite simple really, a bit bored at work and wondered what would be involved. Read into it what you will?

ericmark · 14 Jul 2010

There are multi-options which your electrician may adopt. For an example using a switched fused connection unit for lights he could get away without using a consumer unit. This would limit supply and if 16A supply is enough for your needs then may be an option worth considering.

The RCD usage is another. You must have one but this may be in the house or in the cabin or both with cabin one 1/3 of size to house one.

This is great in theory but in practice 10ma RCD's tend to be expensive. Still with RCD some firms are now doing RCD's with warning LED's to show when it is approaching the trip leakage level and there are even auto-resetting RCD units again the price is the normal problem as the latter is very expensive.

You will note you will not get a price before the electrician visits and this is because until he knows exactly what you already have he can't work out what he needs. If for example your garage needs a new supply before it can be extended to shed then he will have the chance to tell you first.

This can also be the case where the house has no RCD's to do house consumer unit at same time could reduce the cost of doing cabin.

So to ask on here before you have talked to the electrician doing the work is not really helpful.

ricicle · 14 Jul 2010

ericmark said:
The RCD usage is another. You must have one but this may be in the house or in the cabin or both with cabin one 1/3 of size to house one.

This is great in theory but in practice 10ma RCD's tend to be expensive. Still with RCD some firms are now doing RCD's with warning LED's to show when it is approaching the trip leakage level and there are even auto-resetting RCD units again the price is the normal problem as the latter is very expensive..

An RCD of 10mA would not discriminate with one of 30mA just the same as a 30mA won't with a 100mA.

ban-all-sheds · 14 Jul 2010

Aren't auto-resetting RCDs to be disallowed in the forthcoming amendment to BS 7671 for installations not under the supervision of a skilled or instructed person...?

greenep · 14 Jul 2010

OK, fair enough.

I appreciate your reply.

Weavertronix · 14 Jul 2010

Would it not be better to run a submain to the log cabin for it to have its own cu and possibly its own earth electrode, depending on the supply type?

Taylortwocities · 14 Jul 2010

Weavertronix said:
Would it not be better to run a submain to the log cabin for it to have its own cu and possibly its own earth electrode, depending on the supply type?

Quite possibly, but Greenep's electrician can sort that out for him.

Greenep, in preparation you need to do this:

Make a list of all of the things that you will want to power in the log cabin.
The list should include the power consumption (watts) of each.

Do not forget to include the MIG welder, lathe, sauna and heating systems.

Give the list to the sparky and let him get on with it.

ban-all-sheds · 14 Jul 2010

Taylortwocities said:
Do not forget to include the MIG welder, lathe, sauna and heating systems.

Pottery kiln and particle accelerator?

Seriously greenep, the cost of a few m of cable of any likely size as a % of the overall spend on the log cabin and installation of the electrics etc is just noise, so you might as well have 10mm² or even 16mm² put in, from a switchfuse, then whatever you or any future owner wants to do it'll have the capacity.

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Electrics in a log cabin.

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